Propane solenoid shutoff help

[kennyarmes]

I installed a brand new s2 a propane fume detector when I turned it on my stove lit when I push the valve on off switch it does not shut it off the stove will light whether the double green light is on or not. I am really concerned because the fume detector may not be working properly and I don't want to go boom any help would be appreciated I am stumped

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[antoha]

What happens if the stove is on but not lit - does it close off the supply? Not sure how they are meant to work, but would make sense to let it be when everything is fine, and switch off when smth goes wrong.
Does that make sense?


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[sailorchic34]

Is the solenoid installed before the pressure regulator? If so, move it to after the regulator. Sometimes the spec of the hold close spring on solenoids are not capable of closing against 100 psig. Most are 50 psi springs. Propane tank pressure is 75-120 psig. After regulator it's 1/4 psig / 11 inches water column.

Also make sure the valve is not installed backwards as that can exasperate the issue.

[kennyarmes]

It is installed with the flow after the regulator to the stove. When I turn the on off switch off the stove stays lit. The solenoid us rated to 300 psi

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[pesarsten]

How long does it stay lit? It could be that the pressure in the hose needs to bleed down in order for the stove to go out.

[donradcliffe]

Originally Posted by pesarsten

How long does it stay lit? It could be that the pressure in the hose needs to bleed down in order for the stove to go out.

+1 If the stove stays lit for more than 15 seconds after you turn the solenoid off, you have a problem. Otherwise its just burning off the gas in the lines.

[sailorchic34]

Originally Posted by kennyarmes

It is installed with the flow after the regulator to the stove. When I turn the on off switch off the stove stays lit. The solenoid us rated to 300 psi

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Odds are the body is rated to 300 psig, but the back pressure rating is only related to the return spring holding pressure and orifice size and will not generally be that high. That has know to bite engineers in the butt in high pressure systems. Bit of a problem in high rise hydronics too.

If the gas is still running, as others said after 15 seconds, you have a bad valve. Perhaps a damaged valve seat.

[kennyarmes]

Yes it keeps lit way over 2 min

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[kennyarmes]

I was thinking a bad valve even though it is brand new.

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[Brewgyver]

Did you check the power at the valve to see that it is actually off when the switch is off? You have to eliminate that possibility before condemning the solenoid valve. As others said, be CERTAIN the valve is oriented properly. You can also disassemble the valve to check for free movement of the core inside the tube that goes up into the coil. Also, even a small foreign body (grit, pipe dope) can keep the valve from seating, allowing flow when not energized.

[Mahayana]

Also check the wire from the solenoid to the switch. We had to replace ours as corrosion had started to creep up the wire inside the insulation reducing the current and adding resistance. (I think. I try not to mess with things electric too often.). Net result, the new solenoid works every time.

[Mycroft]

Easy to test.

Does the stove light if the power is cut to the switch? If so, then the solenoid is locked in the closed position and you need a new solenoid.

If the stove doesn't light when power is cut to the switch, then something is wrong at the switch. The connectors on the back of the switch are horribly small and it's very easy to short out the electronics in the switch. (Ask me how I know.)

[TrentePieds]

In Windrush the mandatory solenoid is fitted, as it should be, downstream from the regulator. Willy Occam wouldn't like it, and neither do I. SOP is to keep the manual valve on the tanks closed at all times. When starting a galley session I open the manual valve on the "current use" tank. When finishing in the galley and the last pot on the stove is up to temperature, I close the manual valve and let the gas burn outta the line.

No inconvenience at all. And no worries about failure-prone electrics.

TrentePieds

[Cadence]

I for one would agree with TrentePieds. If the locker for the propane is well vented I guess the convenience of a solenoid valve is nice however, I would prefer a switch manually operated solenoid valve and a completely separate audible alarm.

With them tied together it seems like the fox watching the hen house.

[kennyarmes]

I will check voltage with switch off. Good point. Tank is in well vented locker. Hard to get to but I shut off when sailing. Boat was rewired in 2012 and kept in fresh water so corrosion shouldn't be there but I will check.

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