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Old 07-09-2010, 17:30   #16
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Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post

First, the hinge is a straw man. Doesn't matter. Only the frame or surround that the glazing has been bolted/screwed/tape/compressed into matters. If that glazing is not free to MOVE, free to expand and contract without restriction, it will craze.

...but I'd bet an awful lot of what's out there was "built to a price" like most other free market goods, and "built to a price" often means built wrong for the long run, since the first owner and the warranty will be long gone before the problems hit the next one.

.......if the causes are addressed up front. But let's face it, "doing it right" is often not cost effective or even feasible at all. So a 25 year old boat may need new glazing. File under "s*** happens", right? <G>
Not my field, but logic tells me that extruded acrylic is more suseptable than cast, hence "built wrong for the long run" starts with the cheaper extruded material, and may continue on with wrong assembly. All I know is that I put a lot of $$ and labor into installing "new in box" crap made by Lewmar. So now I know I went with the cheaper line when I thought I was buying quality.

Marketing..... I guess you have to have a cheaper line of products to stay in the competition. I just wish Lewmar could have included a "Warning: You will be unhappy buying our cheaper crap".

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Old 07-09-2010, 19:55   #17
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We redid our portlights on our wee (now sold) small racer. We don't know her history, but I assume that the windows had never been done. They were bad enough that you couldn't actually see through the window anymore. As we were trying to not dump any more money than necessary into her before we sold her, we decided to try to repair the originals.

Amazing difference. We removed the acrylic smoked windows, and buffed them with a Meguiar's product called Plast-X. I would assume that most plastic scratch products would work. We kept the boat for another 6 months, and though some of the UV damage was coming back it was still a fantastic improvement.

You can see the buffed window compared to the old window in this photo.

Is it possible to remove the acrylic from the hatch, and then rebed?
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Old 27-09-2010, 13:14   #18
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OMG the terrible advices I see herein...caulk glazing? OMG disaster at sea coming up pronto. I have been repairing and refabricating hatches and ports for over 30 years. Use silproof...crazing cannot be fixed and is a weakened state of acrylics & polycarbonates. If you slip thru a hatch and are lucky enough to cut that big fatty vein inside your can ask God about this.... There is a process which occurs over time with acrylics...and even God cannot change that; there is a proper way to fix them: refabricate them and instal them properly. I have posted many times the way to do it, and it is 50% art & 50 % science & expirience. The best sealent is has flexibility to match the expansion & contractions of the ports & htches. When you instal: Scribe a line inside of the hole...cut off backing paper and paint the outside part of the lens. Then place 2 sided tale...splooge silproof and place lens in place...splooge more around the exterior and use a popcycle stylr thin artists puddy style knife to give a nice groove. Make sure and tape all edges around the porthole hole...voila! Whoa....caulk. OMG MDS (My Deepest Sympathy...if you do that...5200? flex...disaster.) A slight leak is a big contributor to your wife selling that boat

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