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Old 17-08-2016, 14:11   #16
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Re: Port Light Caulk

I left the fact that I do have the bronze frames for the outside. Just fit over the spigot. I figured out how to get the caulk all the way back in the slot. I take a piece of heat shrink tubing a couple inches long. Apply it to the nozzle, flatten it out and push it back in there. Fill the base and work my way out. I'm looking at the tube out of convenience. Thanks.
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Old 17-08-2016, 16:58   #17
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Re: Port Light Caulk

Thanks all for tips & tools for removal. And the New Found Metals video.

Previous tries with putty knife were not fruitful, very tight hard to get the tool behind the inside flange at all, can't imagine getting a fein tool back there, but will take a fresh look with the new knowledge.
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Old 18-08-2016, 09:25   #18
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Re: Port Light Caulk

Is there actually a problem you are trying to fix? Maybe you should just remove the outer trim rings, gouge out the gap and clean well and recaulk those liberally?
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Old 18-08-2016, 10:13   #19
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Re: Port Light Caulk

All of the ports have been removed and cleaned up. Im basically rebuilding the boat. It was left with the ports open for along time. Damaged the inside plywood. So they where taken out. Interior cabinetry rebuilt. Back to the beginning and build from there. I only want to do it once.
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Old 18-08-2016, 10:24   #20
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Re: Port Light Caulk

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Originally Posted by normdeeley View Post
All of the ports have been removed and cleaned up. Im basically rebuilding the boat. It was left with the ports open for along time. Damaged the inside plywood. So they where taken out. Interior cabinetry rebuilt. Back to the beginning and build from there. I only want to do it once.
Uhhh, I thought you said you're having trouble removing them? I'm confused!


Ok... Now I see it's BigSmile cross posting on the same subject!
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Old 18-08-2016, 21:53   #21
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Re: Port Light Caulk

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Uhhh, I thought you said you're having trouble removing them? I'm confused!


Ok... Now I see it's BigSmile cross posting on the same subject!

Did I break etiquette?

Yes, twas me had trouble removing. I'll have a fresh look, now that I know what I'm looking at. Mostly wanted to pull for inspection to verify no concern related to deck.
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Old 18-08-2016, 22:13   #22
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Re: port light caulk

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Originally Posted by ewsponberg View Post
Hi Norm,
We used a lot of SikaFlex 291-LOT on our boat, Corroboree, whenever we needed watertight seals but without the permanent adhesive qualities of 3M-5200. "LOT" stands for Long Open Time, meaning it will take longer to get to tack, particularly in the hot sun down here in Florida. We tried the regular SF-192, but it started to go hard in mere minutes.

You can get a caulking tube of SF-291-LOT for $13.99 at Jamestown Distributors, but you can get it at Merritt Supply in Pompano Beach, FL for $6.10, so less than half JD's price. Link: Merritt Marine Supply. Search.

When using it, tape off the bonding perimeter and keep some paper towels and mineral spirits handy to clean up as you go--it can get on your hands, clothes, and the boat really quickly.

Do you have rubber seals in your bronze port lights, and what condition are they in? We have bronze port lights, and while the frames are well sealed and did not need attention, the rubber seals of the opening window to the frame were shot. We found replacement seals at Downwind Marine in San Diego, CA. Link: 404 Not Found We used the smallest size, 1/4" which works really well. We did spot-seal the gaskets with clear GE Silicon II caulking to keep them in place.

I hope that helps.

Eric
Ditto on the Sikaflex 291-LOT
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Old 19-08-2016, 08:06   #23
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Re: Port Light Caulk

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Originally Posted by BigSmile View Post
Did I break etiquette?

Yes, twas me had trouble removing. I'll have a fresh look, now that I know what I'm looking at. Mostly wanted to pull for inspection to verify no concern related to deck.
It's all good. Just me that's confused!
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Old 19-08-2016, 15:19   #24
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Re: Port Light Caulk

If they are not leaking in or out, leave them alone. It's bit of a job. When pulling the port away from the interior ply its almost impossible not destroy the face ply. No matter fo rme as it all needed to be torn out anyway. But if your is good, leave it. I used a number of drill bits to start to soften up the old caulk around the spigot. Then a Fein type tool. And then as someone else has said wedges. Also I made a puller out of wood that Just caught the spigot edge, and inside a bridge type deal straddling the port. I put a piece of all thread through, and gradually tightened , slowly, let it rest, another turn and so on
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