Steel is a difficult surface to paint in regards to Temperature. One thing that you can do, is to blow warm air inside the hull
. A few fan heaters will suffice. Not a lot of heat is needed, just enough to keep the steel above the dew point of the surrounding air. Not practicable on any other surface as they are too insulative. External infra red heating
is excellent though.
A few other tips. Although, please note that these are pedantic and not always practicable.
Always paint timber on a stable or even falling temperature. ie. afternoon, not early morning. This allows the air in the timber to stablize. Rising temps will cause small bubbles to appear under the paint surface as air escapes.
Ensure the paint has reached the same temperature as the hull
. In other words, keep the paint in the same room as the hull so as both are similar temps.
Use just enough
thinners to do the job. Keep the thinners consistant through multiple mixes. Consisitancy is a difficult one and a real key. Consistancy changes with temperature, so pour tests are the best way to achieve consistant mixes.
It is always better to do two lighter coats than one heavier. However, you also need to cover the surface so as it does not present a "chalk" surface. =ruff, no gloss.
Even if you have just a few square inches left to cover, ensure you cover it with adiquate paint thickness. Never try and make the roller or brush just
make it. You need a consistant film thickness.
They aren't written just to give someone a job to write stuff.
One key instruction often missed is the "leave to stand" time for two pots. Often 10 to 20minutes is specified. It is essential to let this happen. It allows special long chain molicules to form. Without that happening, you can have issues with paint sagging, long touch off times, longer between coat times, poor gloss set and so on. Be patient.
Use good quaility equipment
. Although 95% of the finish is in the preperation, 99% of the remaining 5% is in the application. You need god qualtiy rollers, brushes
etc if hand applying, or you need good quality spray pots and air for spraying. Air quality is essential. So much so, I will list this seperatly
It must be clean and dry. Forget the little "home depot" cheapy compresors. They simply can not keep up. The harder the unit works, the more heat it produces and the more moisture enters the compressed air. You must not have moisture in the air stream. A compressor
capable of supply significantly more air than the gun is using is essential. The bigger the better. A good spin filter for removing moisture and any possible oil
spots etc is essential. I use a large water
seperator, followed by a 40u filter/seperator, followed by a 10u filter/sep, then a filter regulator
. I drain the compressor
tank regularly. Very high humidity may require a special dryer. If you see the tell tale little bubble of water
on the surface when spraying, it's too late. There is moisture being blown under the paint film and it will never adhere properly.
Feel free to add more info to this, and I will look at placing our collective info in a "study hall" at the top of this page.