Originally Posted by GILow
You might be pleasantly suprised. I picked up some paper just this morning from my local paint
supplies place, 400, 800, 1500 and 2000 wet and dry (respraying my wife's car). There were even some grades between those (1200 was one I think), but I have found I can jump them if I am careful. I've seen most of those grades at the mainstream hardware places too.
I too would not pickle till the end of the job, at least, that was the way I was taught by the local SS fabricator.
There are some headlight kits for sale
in the auto part stores here in the states made by 3M and others that have 4 different sanding
grades. Nicely cut round disks and a soft applicator holder. Ive used them to get that yellow UV discoloration off of the lenses. Great for any clear plastic you may want to sharpen up I can say that. It gives it a brand new look. I was done and it looked like I just bought them. I believe the grades are 80, 300, then 1000 (wet) and 2000 (wet). For plastic it has a buffering polish protective coating to add as well.
The finishing 2 disk grits seem pretty tough to last a while. Almost foam like. Not paper thin like sand paper.
3M Headlight Restoration
Kit part #39084. Nice little package under 20 bucks if you have a small amount to polish up.
I don't know if the steps in between grits is to steep. That's my question using paper to metal. How big of a jump in between grades is to much.
There a kit just something with it all together with a nice foam applicator pad to hold the paper. Instead of a bench grinder/buffer and the rouges.