All of the above have merit, but MMO (marvel miracle oil) down the injector hole after you've removed them and STILL get no movement, allowed to sit for weeks, will seep and help break any rust-bound rings.
A horse syringe and a piece of tubing to evacuate any water first, if there is any, wouldn't hurt; it's something you could buy at most auto places (you don't say where in the
Exumas you are, but if it's George Town, I'd bet Top II Bottom would have or can get one - I use it to change my tranny fluid).
Assuming you get it to rock, eventually, do that GENTLY (no injectors should mean you can turn it over easily), stopping when it gets stiff, and wait some more. When you can easily get it to go full circle each way, THEN do the starter turnover (rags over the holes to prevent gushers). Don't forget to block the
raw water intake or you'll flood your
muffler...
Assuming you get it to turn easily, and that the oil still looks good after some vigorous turning with the starter, put the injectors back in (still no raw water),. bleed it, and see if it will start. You can run it for a few minutes without damage from cold.
Pull the dipstick again to see if you're still happy. If not, do an
oil change. If really unhappy (milky foam-ish) do an oil change with MMO and run a couple of minutes and then do a regular oil change (filter both times).
This process works for submerged engines. From the sound of it, you won't have that much trouble, but MMO is a nice lubricant and penetrant...
L8R
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