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Old 08-04-2008, 09:27   #1
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Question Painting VP Outdrive

Anyone ever painted their VP outdrive? I've gotten the OEM paint (spray bombs), primer and paint for the drive but can't find any application directions. Vendor wasn't any help. I have found other postings across the Interweeeeeeb on painting aluminum outdrives (mostly Mercs) that involve a lot of very nasty chemical treatments before priming and painting. I'm hoping that it's as easy as glass-beading the drive and spraying on the primer, a light sanding, then shoot on the paint. Hopefully I won't get through the original paint too much, there's a couple of layers (probably 5 or 6) of black paint the PO's applied plus some anti-fouling (Interlux XXX) to clean off. Any hints, tips, suggestions welcome.
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Old 08-04-2008, 13:44   #2
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So you can blast with Glass bead?? That would be excellent. Depending on how good the original paint is adhereing, sand an primer etc maybe all you need to do. But if there is corrosion and the paint is flaking off, you need to take the entire thing back to base metal. A good wipe over with a paint solvent to ensure you have no oil on the surface that may have been delivered by the air system. I recomend you then prime ASAP before the surface gets too oxidised and contaminated. The first primer needs to be an etch primer if the Volvo one is not. Then follow with the Volvo product.
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Old 08-04-2008, 15:07   #3
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I figured the glass beads were best for aluminum. Walnut shells cut to slow but if the beads are to agressive I'll switch. I'd like to leave as much of the original paint as possible.

I don't know if the VP primer is etching or not. The vendor wasn't any help and the label has no info and I couldn't find anything on the web about it. Should I look for something like "Alumaprep"? I think that's the stuff you brush on, it turns a golden color then you wash it off with water. IIRC it's pretty noxious stuff.

What do they use on aluminum props? I've got some Mercruiser O/D paint that I've used on props that seems to work pretty good w/o primer.
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Old 09-04-2008, 01:28   #4
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There are dedicated etch primers like Epiglass put out. But there are also cheaper alternatives as well. PA10 will work as an etch primer. But the thing you have to be aware of is the hardness of the primer once cured. Some primers will be tough wearing, some won't. I wouldn't miond betting the VP is actually PA10.
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Old 09-04-2008, 14:06   #5
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The key to getting good adhesion on aluminum is anchor profile. While the best way to achive this is blasting you need a media that will leave a profile. Sand or Black Beauty come to mind. Glass beads will clean but do not leave a profile. You will need a mil and a half to have any chance of the coating adhering over time.
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Old 09-04-2008, 15:29   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edboat View Post
The key to getting good adhesion on aluminum is anchor profile. While the best way to achive this is blasting you need a media that will leave a profile. Sand or Black Beauty come to mind. Glass beads will clean but do not leave a profile. You will need a mil and a half to have any chance of the coating adhering over time.
Thanks edboat, if I go through the old paint to the bare metal I'll switch to Black Beauty. This is turning into a major production just to paint an outdrive!
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Old 10-04-2008, 02:44   #7
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“BLACK BEAUTY” abrasives are available in three standard grades:

Medium
Used for general purpose repair and maintenance blasting including removal of paint, rust, mill scale, and other coatings from surfaces. Requires a minimum suggested nozzle size of 1/4" and under standard blasting conditions will achieve a 3-5 Mil profile.

Fine
Utilized for new construction, light paint and rust removal and special maintenance applications requiring reduced profiles. Requires a minimum suggested nozzle size of 3/16” and under standard blasting conditions will achieve a 2-4 Mil profile.

Extra fine
Applicable for light blasting requiring a clean surface and minimum anchor profile including Brush-Off Blast or high-pressure water blast systems. Requires a minimum suggested nozzle size of 1/8” and under standard blasting conditions will achieve a 1.5-3 Mil profile.
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Old 18-04-2008, 18:15   #8
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Good 'nuff for the girls I go with!

2 hours w/sandblaster, 40 lbs of glass beads, 1 hour of sanding, primer x2, enamel x2. All together about 4 yrs total. Not a showroom finish but good 'nuff for the girls I go with!

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Old 27-04-2008, 14:17   #9
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One more step complete (almost)

Over 6 hours, countless bumps on the head, 3 blood blisters and two pinched fingers! For the most part it's ready, just need to hook up the exhaust bellows (which are a real b*tch) and I lost the doodad for the shifter linkage. It trims up and down and turns to port and starboard. A few more minor maintenance thingies and she's ready to go back in the water (if I can afford the fuel).



It'll get a coat of anti-fouling as well along with the hull. This has been an oddysey for sure! And yes, I'll remember to put the plug in!
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Old 27-04-2008, 14:30   #10
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Looks good Rick. Don't forget the dodads and thingy's though, and stop trying to shave rocks with the thing for gosh sakes.

And, oh, what kind of camera did you get?
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Old 27-04-2008, 14:47   #11
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That's from the lil' wifey's Canon Powershot. Nice little camera. I don't like the way it meters though, really tight center weighted.

This major screw up wasn't an issue with rocks but dumb ass'd neglect of regular maintenance. My fault. I ate it all $1500 of it. Hell with it, worth every penny if it gets us through the Rideau Canal this summer. Plenty of new equip. too.
  1. Rebuilt outdrive and props & Bellows!
  2. Force 10 Hot Water Heater
  3. 2x Deep cycle batteries
  4. Automatic Charging Relay
  5. Garmin GPS chartplotter & G2 chip & antenna
  6. LED nav & cabin lights
  7. Dometic 110/12 volt refer
  8. Jensen CD stereo, 4 speakers & remote control
  9. Water Witch bilge pump switch
  10. New (larger) trim planes, and....
  11. about 200' of new "Marine" wiring!
Still waiting on the Bennett electronic trim controller and the Garmin fuel sensor.

Now all I gotta do is stay off e-Bay and I can afford some fuel. I'm still acquiring parts for our next boat. Picked up quite a few sweet deals in the last couple of weeks!
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Old 01-05-2008, 13:19   #12
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We're gettin' awful close now! *Schwing*

The boat's moved from the back yard to the front yard! Outdrive is on and hooked up. Fuel's in! Tomorrow is the big clean up and anti-fouling and put in the plug! We'll get her bottom wet on Saturday morning!

After nine months of grief, anguish, anger, desperation and not to mention a pretty big stack of cash we'll be back on the water! Wohoo!
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Old 01-05-2008, 20:41   #13
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Sounds great, have fun. That's quite a list of items added to the boat.

I have a little Powershot A570is but haven't used it much. The delay kind of throws me and all I have managed to get is the back end of the cat exiting the room. She sure doesn't like the red light... Now that the weather is getting nicer I'll have to try it outside and see what I can get. Maybe I'll dust off my old Canon SLR and burn some film to.
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Old 03-05-2008, 10:49   #14
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Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! Finally!!!!!!!



Just leaving the Bridgeview Restaurant and Marina this morning. That's the Ogdensburg/Prescott International bridge in the background.
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Old 18-05-2008, 11:01   #15
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It never ends. Installed Bennett electronic trim tab switch with the fancy schmancy LED indicators & auto tab retract.



Worked fine and then *poof* the pump goes! One side stuck in the up position. I switched hyd lines like the manual says and it's not the hydraulics (ie. plugged hyd line). It's the pump! *sigh*

I guess it was due it's over 20 yrs old.
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