Painting Upper Hull While at Dock

[minaret]

The other advantage to vertical tipping is that on many boats you can make a single stroke from under the rubrail to the waterline without taking your brush off the surface. This means there is no lap in your brushing, you never have to take your brush off the finished surface. And a brush feeds better on a vertical stroke from top to bottom with the handle angled down. Gravity feeds paint into the brushes fibers and it picks up more paint than it would on an upstroke. This makes for a finer film and no hangers. Remember the brush is taking paint off not putting it on.

[VirtualVagabond]

Originally Posted by minaret

The other advantage to vertical tipping is that on many boats you can make a single stroke from under the rubrail to the waterline without taking your brush off the surface. This means there is no lap in your brushing, you never have to take your brush off the finished surface. And a brush feeds better on a vertical stroke from top to bottom with the handle angled down. Gravity feeds paint into the brushes fibers and it picks up more paint than it would on an upstroke. This makes for a finer film and no hangers. Remember the brush is taking paint off not putting it on.

That's an interesting concept that's never crossed my mind. Can you elaborate a little?

[michaelmrc]

what about painting your top sides i need to do my deck and cabin top what paint would you recommend for this.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by VirtualVagabond

That's an interesting concept that's never crossed my mind. Can you elaborate a little?

In a roll and tip with LPU generally the biggest problem is for the guy with the foam roller to get exactly the right amount of paint on the surface for it to acheive flow without putting too much and getting hangers. This is really difficult even with experience. So it's part of the job of the tipper to make sure that the paint is laid on evenly and thinly enough not to hang. Generally you'll see a guy tipping a hull will never dip his brush, but will often wipe it on the bucket rim to remove excess paint. This is because the roller is putting on too much. In perfect ambient conditions and with the worlds most skilled roller, the roller stipple would just flow out and you wouldn't need to tip. But in the real world it's not really possible, hence the tip. I know some guys around here who specialize in woodies and only roll and tip. The tipper barely needs to tell the roller "more" or "less" anymore.

[mohawkmariner]

for a quick fix to brighten up your topsides for the season theres no problem.i just rolled out the topsides of my 32 ft cutter on her mooring from the dingy.there was a foot swell rolling in so it was hold the dingy in place with one hand and roll with the other.i used a small 3 inch roller to hit the tight spots and while its far from perfect from ten feet away it looks fine.it really is amazing what a little paint can do next time i haul i will get the few inches near the waterline that the swell kept wetting.of course for a perfect job theres tons of prep and taping .just do it and im sure you will be good with the results

[STG]

Originally Posted by minaret

….. Brushing can still be a good economy option in the yard. Many yards around here will require you to build a tent around your hull when you spray to contain overspray, …….. It was still way cheaper and faster to brush it, and I shoot boats for a living!

Thanks, I’ll look more into the brush and tipping. I have heard that is does a great job (if done right). I am required to build a tent at the yard though to sand the old striping and crappy paint that is already there, so not too worried about that as I have to do it no matter how I paint anyway. Brushing scares me a bit as I only have experience spraying, and even that is only wood interior trim, doors, walls, and auto finishes. I am surprised to hear it is faster than spraying though. (I assume because of all the masking and prep for spraying?). Also, I have read the same thing about the vertical tipping as you stated, so if I go that route I will follow your advice. Sounds like the thinner is the trick to keep the lines out, but at risk of too thin and sags and runs, etc.

[minaret]

The old term for vertical tipping is "laying off". I first learnt my enamel and varnish work restoring civil war era southern gothics in the deep south. The old timers who taught me my trade there were steeped in the black arts of varnish...

brushes and methods

Another pro site which recommends vertical tipping.

[smurphny]

Painted my cabin sides in the boatyard today with Interlux "Perfection" 2 part epoxy. Seems like nice paint. We'll see. Brushed it on and have a few brush marks and a couple of minor curtains but after another DA sanding and a reduced topcoat, it will be hard to tell from a spray job. Today was not ideal as described well above: was too hot and dry, then the wind, of course started blowing as soon as the paint was on and sticky. Then a big Hemlock beetle attempted suicide-by-paint but just missed. I remember doing this one time when as soon as I sprayed the AWLGRIP , a hatch of GIANT brown moths decided to make a visit. One fluttered right into the paint.$%^*
One suggestion: even outdoors, wear a good organic vapor mask. These 2 part paints are all nasty.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by STG

Thanks, I’ll look more into the brush and tipping. I have heard that is does a great job (if done right). I am required to build a tent at the yard though to sand the old striping and crappy paint that is already there, so not too worried about that as I have to do it no matter how I paint anyway. Brushing scares me a bit as I only have experience spraying, and even that is only wood interior trim, doors, walls, and auto finishes. I am surprised to hear it is faster than spraying though. (I assume because of all the masking and prep for spraying?). Also, I have read the same thing about the vertical tipping as you stated, so if I go that route I will follow your advice. Sounds like the thinner is the trick to keep the lines out, but at risk of too thin and sags and runs, etc.

If you have to build a tent anyway for dust control, it's probably faster to shoot it. What yard are you hauling at that is making you tent to sand your hull? Just curious. I find good tenting followed by really cleaning up the dust in the tent after sanding takes more time than anything else about the job. Usually after sanding and before coating in a tent we send in a guy in foulies with a hose. He spends a couple of hours hosing it all out several times. Otherwise everytime the wind shakes the plastic on the tent framing dust will fall on your paint. After hosing you obviously need serious dry time with fans and solvent wiping, followed by tack cloths. It all adds up to lay days. Sometimes if you can do it all out in the open it's much faster, depends on what you're painting. We've been known to do stealth weekend paintjobs, though the yard boss will ask questions on Monday. Make sure you build your tent well, I've seen failed tents have plastic blow into wet paint too many times. Good tent making is an art form in itself.

[STG]

Originally Posted by minaret

What yard are you hauling at that is making you tent to sand your hull? Just curious.

It is Seaview Boatyard West (Shilshole). They said tenting was required for any sanding of the hull. I asked if I could do it myself with visqueen, and they said “as long as it is up to our standards”. I’ll have to see what that means. Also, they insist on doing the paint work below the waterline themselves, so they will be involved at least to that extent.

[minaret]

I'd recommend a yard that might be easier on you but I don't know that that's allowed on the forum. Everyone is getting the crackdown these days, but personally I wouldn't deal with Seaview, East or West. The guys at West will give you a big shpiel about how it will cost the same whether you paint the bottom or they do. It ain't true. All I can say is call some other yards in the area and ask about their policies on tenting. You will find someone nearby who will be a little more lenient and reasonable. Though it will mean a trip through the locks.

[heron237]

I did "paint" a 35 ft sailboat clients boat with interlux single part paint a couple of years ago, and i did not tip vertically. I had to thin the paint to such a degree to get satisfactory results that we had to do five coats. I can see the logic behind that idea, but as a practical matter it just doesn't work. I stand by my statement.

[heron237]

Oh and by the way never use tack clothes. Two wipes one with solvent and one dry. The wet one in one hand and the dry in the other. Follow the wet with the dry. And periodically replace the solvent one with the dry one, replacing the dry one with a new one. These clothes must be of a diaper sort without lint or dyes, etc. The wax in tack clothes is too problematic

[minaret]

Originally Posted by heron237

Oh and by the way never use tack clothes. Two wipes one with solvent and one dry. The wet one in one hand and the dry in the other. Follow the wet with the dry. And periodically replace the solvent one with the dry one, replacing the dry one with a new one. These clothes must be of a diaper sort without lint or dyes, etc. The wax in tack clothes is too problematic

http://www.awlgrip.com/Product%20Dat...7+A+eng+A4.pdf

http://www.awlgrip.com/Product%20Dat...8+A+eng+A4.pdf

Just gotta use the good stuff. It's in the manufacturers guidelines.