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Old 04-12-2010, 06:27   #1
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Painting Under the Stands Supporting the Hull

I have prepared the hull on my boat and painted with antifouling paint. I now have the stands that need to be moved to paint under them. In the past the boat yard would put cloth between the wooden pads and the hull, they were moved and I painted. It seems as though where the wooden pads and cloth were is where the barnacles seem to attach first.
Would it be possible to put a piece of wax paper between the wood, cloth and the hull to try and protect the paint. Does everyone use cloth between, or just the wood? I have seen the boats moved and they have nothing between the wood on the stands and the hull.
Suggestions? Dave
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Old 04-12-2010, 07:54   #2
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Probably depends on the kind of paint you use. An ablative paint likely will wear off when press against a stand. We use a non-ablative paint that dries hard and moving the stands isn't a problem after the paint is dried. Have no idea whether wax paper would work, but it's an interesting idea.
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:03   #3
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I used an ablative paint last year and just moved the stands with just the wood aganist the hull. There wasn't any problem with the paint being worn/rubbed off at the stands.
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:15   #4
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we used heavy plastic off a roll at the boatyard i worked...weath hard paint or ablative
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:38   #5
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I move my stands every time I'm painting the bottom (or getting it painted). I just let the wood rest against the fresh ablative bottom paint. Of course it's usually only for a few days before launching. I've never had a problem.
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Old 04-12-2010, 10:55   #6
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old wetsuit

I use squares cut from on old wetsuit between the hull and the stands, doesn't bruise the paint.
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Old 04-12-2010, 12:09   #7
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Try old carpet covered with polyethylene sheet. Helps to let the paint really dry. Helps to move twice:

Sand and first coat new pad patches.
Move stands.
Sand and coat everything else to finish thickness.
Move stands.
Coat patches to finish thickness.

Best if done with once with the travel-lift so the keel blocks can be moved.

Carpet and plastic on the travel-lift straps too. A few extra lay days for complete drying. Expensive, but worth it in future longevity.
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Old 04-12-2010, 12:53   #8
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allways

dont know where your at but in the keys i've allways seen wax paper used.
never tried cloth, seems like it would take some paint with it!
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Old 04-12-2010, 13:23   #9
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Agree with others just move the stands using wood against the hull.

One trick some of us do is ask for a lift back 'in' just before lunchtime, get them to lift the boat 'before' they go to lunch and hold her in the slings, and just touch up the antifoul where stands have been and where the keel was sitting on the blocks, it usualy dries quick anyhow.
Job Done!
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Old 04-12-2010, 13:35   #10
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our yards make sure that area is done before splashing boats by relocating the stands as they go.
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Old 04-12-2010, 17:02   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tynesider View Post
One trick some of us do is ask for a lift back 'in' just before lunchtime, get them to lift the boat 'before' they go to lunch and hold her in the slings, and just touch up the antifoul where stands have been and where the keel was sitting on the blocks, it usualy dries quick anyhow.
Job Done!
This doesn't work well if your paint needs time to dry. I like to allow 24 hours minimum before splashing.
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Old 05-12-2010, 03:32   #12
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I use ablative Island 44, will be moving the stands today and we splash on Wed. Thanks for all of the comments. Dave
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Old 05-12-2010, 04:04   #13
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Originally Posted by Calico Jack View Post
This doesn't work well if your paint needs time to dry. I like to allow 24 hours minimum before splashing.
Oil-based paints can generally be launched wet, if the boat is moved directly to a nearby slip at slow speed. They will "dry" in the water. Water-based paints require 24 hours before launch.
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Old 05-12-2010, 04:11   #14
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Did not know that. I moore in in a bay about 1 mile away. Possible could anchor for a night. Thanks
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Old 05-12-2010, 05:37   #15
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Did not know that. I moore in in a bay about 1 mile away. Possible could anchor for a night. Thanks
I learned this years ago -- when I used a wood cradle for my boat. There was no way to move pads, so I would sand and paint everywhere the cradle didn't touch, then at launch they would pick up the boat just before lunch hour, and I would sand and paint the remaining areas while it was in the slings. It would adhere as well as the fully-dried areas, and in fall when I hauled out it all looked the same. (I used oil-based Micron copolymer ablatives at that time).
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