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Old 13-10-2009, 11:24   #1
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Painting Over Teak

i am sick of treating my teak---i have a ton of it on my 41 ft defever trawler. i would like to paint over the bristol finish that is on there now and need help. i plan to use something like awlgrip or interlux or similar and wonder if anyone has tips/ideas/methods of application/etc. i saw a grand banks that had done it and it gave it a much more modern look without all the work involved of refinishing the teak so often. anyone got ideas??
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Old 13-10-2009, 12:02   #2
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If only I could, I would. My wife doesn't sail with me much but she has warned me not to paint the teak on pain of excommunication(she won't talk to me AND I'll be cut off). I think I could make a "10ft match" of the colours if I tried but that would still, I'm afraid, leave me 9"6" short of happiness. I am also however still open to passable suggestions................m
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Old 13-10-2009, 12:33   #3
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I have seen it done and it looked real nice, although not as nice as 10 coats of finely sanded Varnish. I have seen it done in dark green on a white hull with green hull stripe, or in a teakish brown which from 50 feet still looked like teak. I have never been very satisfied with the one part awlgrip or interlux "boating " products myself. I made new floorboards this year and bought oil based Rustoleum satin white paint to do them. What wonderful paint, flows nicely, thick and covers superbly. On bare Marine ply, 2 thick coats almost looked like white plastic! Nice hard finish when dry. Not sure about sunshine lifespan... Sorry I cant be more specific help, but I think I will be sticking the Rustoleum on other parts of my Trawler.... at any rate, paint will last a LOT longer than varnish...
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Old 13-10-2009, 12:38   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defever View Post
i am sick of treating my teak---i have a ton of it on my 41 ft defever trawler. i would like to paint over the bristol finish that is on there now and need help. i plan to use something like awlgrip or interlux or similar and wonder if anyone has tips/ideas/methods of application/etc. i saw a grand banks that had done it and it gave it a much more modern look without all the work involved of refinishing the teak so often. anyone got ideas??


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Old 13-10-2009, 12:43   #5
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I painted over my external teak for the same exact reason, because I got tired of varnishing.

I used Pettit Easypoxy straight over the wood, no primer. Its held up for two years now. No more varnishing!...hurrah!
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Old 13-10-2009, 13:08   #6
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Painting over teak, in my experience and IMHO, is almost NEVER a good idea. Yeah, you can get away with it for a year or two, but after that it begins to look like crap. Can't tell you how many disasters I've seen over the years.

If you don't like "treating" your teak, then why do it? Bare, natural teak looks great, and wears very well over time. You just have to clean it occasionally. Adding teak oils or other "treatments" only increases the work required and adds an unnecessary level of complexity.

One solution which works well is to leave deck teak bare...clean it occasionally...and varnish the trim (e.g., cap rails) using a durable varnish. Coelan -- a German product -- works very well and lasts for several years (mine is three years and counting). My 10-year old bare cockpit teak looks great; I just wash it occasionally with a light dish soap solution and rinse well. Probably not as often as I should :-)

But, I feel your pain. Got rid of my teak decks years ago. Pulled 'em up, put down a couple layers of fiberglass cloth over the underlying fiberglass and 8 coats of Awlgrip, including one non-skid layer. Has held up well for almost a decade.

Bill
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Old 13-10-2009, 13:26   #7
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I have seen a couple of Ocean Alexander trawlers with Painted Handrails at boat shows. I asked the sales guy how it was done, he said 3 coats of varnish were applied first then the varnish was painted over with Awlgrip paint, it was a dark brown and looked very good. These were brand new boats, for sale, so I don't know how long it would last.
My new to me Monk has teak trim I have never had to deal with teak before I am going to give it a couple of tries if it gets to be too much work I'll give Cetol a try if that doesn't work out it will be painted probably dark blue to match the bimini canvas.
I got a quote to replace the teak hand rails with SS tubing $4,200.00. Yikes!
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Old 13-10-2009, 14:02   #8
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Teak hulls are painted all the time.
Wash down with denatured alc., prime and paint.
It's a prosecutable crime to do that to cabins and trim though
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Old 13-10-2009, 15:51   #9
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I am a heretic

Teak cap rail (on the bulwarks) was very tired after 40 years, plus the odd lump missing...........after scarfing in a few pieces, plenty of reshaping, refixing in places, a bit of epoxy filler here & there...........finished off with 3 or 4 coats of:-



Looks grrrrrrrreat!............from 15 foot (I covered the hand rails to match). Closer it looks a miilion percent better than what was their previously, but nonetheless it does look like wood covered with..........Sadolin . I think of it as part of my boat's practical look (plus I love low / easy maintanence ), but looks wise I would prefer something like varnished mahogany, albeit if I ever replace the handrails it will be in S/S and the cap rail in good old traditional......aluminium


If Mole Grips are the Bodgers tool of choice, Sadolin is perhaps the paint equivalent - covers many sins
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Old 13-10-2009, 16:07   #10
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Yes, stain could be an option. I've not tried it, but mentioned it here a while back. Olympic 5 year oil based has lasted 6 years on the cedar and sunny side of my Garage. Seems a bulwark cap would be a good place for this stuff....
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Old 13-10-2009, 16:11   #11
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i'm only painting the brightwork (except hand/toe rails,window trim, eyebrow)..but i still have tons of little stuff to paint... the trim is put on by a masochist...
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Old 13-10-2009, 22:01   #12
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would urethane be an option that might wear better than varnish?
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Old 14-10-2009, 12:00   #13
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As an ex yacht refinisher I have painted many wooden boats and my favorite (30yrs ago) was Easypoxy. On varnish you would sand all of the shine away with 220 grit and use the recommended primer. Add a small amount of Penetrol to make the paint flow easier. Have a helper and have at least 3 GOOD BRISTLE BRUSHES. Have your helper just to keep your brushes clean and dry. Easypoxy tacs fairly quickly. Easypoxy is a snap to keep looking good. If you get a ding or scratch just sand it a little and paint it. Easypoxy will last a good 5 years as that was my guarantee to my clients.
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Old 18-10-2009, 18:47   #14
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Switch to an oil finish with Tung oil or Linseed oil. I agree that is should be a crime...a felony no less...to paint over a wood that is not only scarce now, but currently sells for $25 per board foot (12"x12"x1").
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Old 19-07-2015, 14:53   #15
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Re: Painting Over Teak

We made the very difficult decision today to paint the exterior teak trim on our Cape Dory 33. Yes, we know it should be a felony, and no, we wouldn't do it if we didn't feel we had to....but at this point it's either that or we need to replace it.

We do not have the time, skill, or resources to replace all the wood ourselves and we can't afford to have someone else do it right now. But what we can do, and what we did do on our Cabo Rico caprail (which was in a similar state), is use epoxy to repair the damage and glue up cracks, fill in the ridges and gouges instead of trying to sand them away, fair everything up nice and paint it.

This poor boat has been neglected and unprotected in the Baltimore winters and summers for too long, plus suffered some damage in a storm, so the condition of our wood goes far beyond just being grey and dirty. We have wood that, first of all, had been sanded too aggressively over close to 30 years so a lot of the wood is getting too thin. I had to remove a lot of screws and counter sink them deeper just to be able to get wood bungs to stay in the toe rail at all. On top of that we have gouges all over the place from the storm and other mistreatment/mishaps, sections of damaged rub rail that need to be replaced, and very deep grooves and ridges from years of weathering. We also have wood that is dried out to the point of splitting. I spent several weeks last year working on parts of it without great results and didn't even get to the worse parts of it. The amount of sanding I would have to do to get to decent wood would just be too much and that still wouldn't address all the damage.

The eyebrows were too thin and damaged even for that so I think we are going to just leave them off and fill the screw holes. We are painting the cabin and deck anyway. If we feel we need the visual break that the eyebrows gave we can paint on a stripe or use vinyl striping.

We plan to use the Pettit Easypoxy Brightwork Brown. That will maintain the traditional look, at least from a distance. I am not worried about treating the wood so that someone could return it to varnish in the future. If it could be done and look decent, I would do it myself. I think this wood is beyond that. Removing the paint in the future would just expose a lot of patches and repairs. We know it will no doubt affect resale value but that can't be our primary concern right now. This is our boat and we need to make it nice for ourselves within the time and money constraints we have.

In my fantasy I win the lottery, pull the boat in to Robinhood Marine someday and say "make her look like she did when she was new, I'll be back to get her in a couple of months." But then I wake up......

So arrest me....I know I'm committing a felonious act but I plead justified.
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