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Old 09-09-2015, 09:11   #1
F51
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Paint Problem Brightside Poly

We put Interlux Brightside Polyurethane on the new wood in the lazarette. I have had good luck with this paint in the past. Apparently there was some moisture in the wood and the paint did not harden. It looks like the skin of a plucked chicken in places, and you can scrape it off with your fingernail. Other spots it is hard and smooth. Questions: Can you apply 2-part paint over Brightside? If we use a 2-part paint, will it harden in the presence of some moisture? I think we will have to deal with the high humidity here in the Rio Dulce. Thanks
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:37   #2
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

The 2 part will dry but if the other stuff is going to be a problem. Every place it's wonky will cause the 2 part to fail. Next time use a water base instead of an oil base paint?
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:59   #3
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

Are you sure you mixed the paint?

I'm not sure what the purpose of putting a two-part over the one-part would be. Also, I know some two-part thinners will cause some one-part paints to lift.

I like using interluxes two-part epoxy primer (sticks really well) followed by their one-part poly (very forgiving and easy to get a beautiful finish).
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:02   #4
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

Would a latex paint be durable enough in the marine environment? I know it is used on house exteriors, but what about durability? It rained before the first coat was applied, but we had sealed the wood with West System epoxy before the primer coat of Brightside. We are taking all the paint off as I write this, so we will be ok to start over. I just don't know why the Brightside failed. I have had such good luck with it in the past. I'm puzzled.
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Old 09-09-2015, 13:47   #5
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

Get some white car paint from the hardware store in the concrete mall. Some of the water base stuff is bomber but how do you tell which is which?
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Old 09-09-2015, 14:57   #6
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

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we had sealed the wood with West System epoxy before the primer coat of Brightside. We are taking all the paint off as I write this, so we will be ok to start over. I just don't know why the Brightside failed. I have had such good luck with it in the past. I'm puzzled.
No paint will stick to the epoxy unless primed first with epoxy (2 part) primer.
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Old 09-09-2015, 15:31   #7
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

I believe your problem is a classic amine blush one. Amines on the surface of the epoxy are preventing the paint from drying. They are removed by scrubbing with soap and water. Solvents won't work!

Which hardener did you use? West System recommend using 207 if overpainting or varnishing, as it doesn't blush. 206 and 209 are the worst for amine blush, in fact in a test I found online, 206 was the absolute worst epoxy tested (for blush that is, other properties are excellent).

At this stage I believe what you need to do is get back to the epoxy, remove the blush, and try again. You could go over the existing epoxy with one that doesn't blush, and I believe that a 2-part epoxy primer is in that category.

NB : Interlux say that you can put one-part polyurethane paint over 2-part, but never 2-part over one.

Oddly, though, I put Interlux Bilgekote over 205 epoxy with no problem. Maybe you should try that? It's intended for painting over horrible substrates without a lot of preparation.
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Old 10-09-2015, 09:13   #8
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

When you say that you put the brightside on new wood in the laz, did you put it over bare wood, or was it primed or coated with something before you applied the brightside?
If there was indeed moisture in the substrate that would cause the brightside to lift. Normally it adheres well over the interlux single part primers such as pre coat or over the two part primers such as epoxy prime coat or inter protect.

You would not want to attempt putting a two part paint such as perfection or awl grip over the bright side, the solvents and activator in the two part paints will cause the single part alkyd enamel or modified polyurethane enamel to lift.

In no cases ever use a latex paint on a boat.

What you will most likely need to do is scrape off the loose paint sand it all down, let it dry and then re paint. If the wood was not previously primed I would recommend using Interlux Pre Coat under the brightside.

Interlux has a handy guide book "Boat Painting Guide & Color Card" that's available at most retailers. Their web site www.yachtpaint.com is also a great resource.

Brightside is an excellent choice of paint, I've used it very successfully for many years, the key is good prep and you will have results you will be pleased with. Also for brushing or rolling using a bit of 333 brushing liquid will help the flow and self leveling of the finish. If your spraying use 216.
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:00   #9
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

The paint he applied is a one-part Poly. I think he is asking if he can put a two-part over it.

Brightside if it does not stick needs to be scraped off to remove anything not sticking as anything that goes on above it will eventually flake off as well. Said with experience.

If you scrape it well, sand, then put a coat of the Interlux or even the Petit undercoat, sand smooth, then coat again, you may be able to solve the problem. The under coat will soak in and grab, whereas the paint itself will grab just at the surface. But that paint is notorious for flaking. I have had good luck with it and coats lasting 20 years as long as using the primer undercoat below it. Painting directly on anything less than a perfect surface and it will flake sooner or later.
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:09   #10
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

I've not been a fan of Brightsides. I've only tried it on interior stuff but have had finish issues too. On one boat I switched to Parker Exterior oil based enamel and it was the best paint I've ever used for that purpose.
I would never ever use a latex on a boat.
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:18   #11
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

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Next time use a water base instead of an oil base paint?
Ever tried to sand semi gloss water base paint?? Really fun stuff to try and feather in a repair. The paint turns to a sandpaper clogging goo if you try and sand. Leave the water base for houses.

Have no idea why the paint didn't cure but you'll have to remove all of the uncured paint from the problem areas if you want subsequent paint coatings to stick.
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:22   #12
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

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.I would never ever use a latex on a boat.
Not all water base paints are latex...
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:34   #13
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

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Ever tried to sand semi gloss water base paint?? Really fun stuff to try and feather in a repair. The paint turns to a sandpaper clogging goo if you try and sand. Leave the water base for houses.

Have no idea why the paint didn't cure but you'll have to remove all of the uncured paint from the problem areas if you want subsequent paint coatings to stick.
I think you are lumping water based in with Latex paint.
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:46   #14
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

I see two potential issues.
- Poor prep work. No paint will adhere well if the substrate isn't clean and dry.
- I like brightside but if you try to put it on thick it will skin over and the underlying paint will not cure. If you get sloppy, this can easily happen.

Putting new paint (of any type) over a failed paint surface is not going to be a durable solution.
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Old 10-09-2015, 17:33   #15
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

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Originally Posted by Cheechako View Post
I've not been a fan of Brightsides. I've only tried it on interior stuff but have had finish issues too. On one boat I switched to Parker Exterior oil based enamel and it was the best paint I've ever used for that purpose.
I would never ever use a latex on a boat.
Funny, I am a fan of Interlux Brightsides and primers/bilgecoat... I've also used Kilz as the primer. I felt like a got a pretty smooth finish and I admit to being pretty lazy when it comes to sanding...
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