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Old 10-09-2015, 16:59   #16
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

Re- Painting Bluestocking's decks and cabintop now, after 8 years, with Brightside. Most of the areas really don't need it, but I feel guilty. In Bermuda's extra saline and high humidity ( Gulf Stream ) atmosphere, it lasts longer than most paints. On top of Werdol primer.

so many projects--so little time !!
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Old 10-09-2015, 17:53   #17
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Location: Most of my life has been in coastal Maine, recently relocated to Tampa Bay area
Boat: Cy Hamlin/Joel White wood Yawl, 1968, 32', "Dulcibella"
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Re: Paint Problem Brightside Poly

The rule of thumb is you can use lower tech finishes over higher tech finishes, but not the reverse ie: 1 part over two part but not the reverse. No finish likes moisture not in the air, not on or in the surface-except water base to an extent. If you have high humidity all the time (I'm in Maine-so no experience- call the manufacturer. I have found Interlux tech response to be excellent.
In general, water based finishes are not as durable as enamels and polyurethane finishes, but they're getting there.

You didn't say, but is this a bare wood that you are working with, as in no FG over it, no epoxy coating of all surfaces. If so, forget 1 or 2 part urethanes- they will not serve you well- the wood moves and moisture creeps under the finish. Stick to enamel or maybe try a water base-call the manufacturer.


Originally Posted by F51 View Post
We put Interlux Brightside Polyurethane on the new wood in the lazarette. I have had good luck with this paint in the past. Apparently there was some moisture in the wood and the paint did not harden. It looks like the skin of a plucked chicken in places, and you can scrape it off with your fingernail. Other spots it is hard and smooth. Questions: Can you apply 2-part paint over Brightside? If we use a 2-part paint, will it harden in the presence of some moisture? I think we will have to deal with the high humidity here in the Rio Dulce. Thanks

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