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Old 22-08-2010, 07:41   #16
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It sounds like your packing in the gland has seen its useful life. Depending on accessability, renewing your packing is something that depending on use has to be done every number of years. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box
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Old 22-08-2010, 11:16   #17
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OK, here's a pointless question


Is it 'cutless' bearing, or 'cutlass' bearing? I thought it was 'cutlass' because the strut that often supports the shaft and contains the bearing is shaped rather like a cutlass (sword):



But I've seen both terms used in various texts.
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Old 22-08-2010, 12:56   #18
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Pointless (Pointlass?) answer!

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Originally Posted by Healer52 View Post
OK, here's a pointless question


Is it 'cutless' bearing, or 'cutlass' bearing? I thought it was 'cutlass' because the strut that often supports the shaft and contains the bearing is shaped rather like a cutlass (sword):



But I've seen both terms used in various texts.
It's my understanding, that the proper term is "cutless", as an early material used for the purpose was somewhat abrasive on the shaft, and the modern material we use now would "cut less" on the shaft. I can't post reference at the moment, just a quickie response. Cheers from lake Superior!
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Old 23-08-2010, 00:53   #19
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Hi Dave
The grease is to help lubricate the gland...it doesnt stop the water...you need to tighten the gland nut or repack the gland with teflon coated gland packing or dripless packing as Greg recommended.

There are different sizes of packing so make sure you get the right one.
You state that one of the glands is bone dry...if it is....its to tight...it should drip about once every 20 seconds or so...and of course keep cool.

It sounds like you are filling the stern log with grease!!!
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Old 23-08-2010, 04:52   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mi2ndWind View Post
It's my understanding, that the proper term is "cutless", as an early material used for the purpose was somewhat abrasive on the shaft, and the modern material we use now would "cut less" on the shaft. I can't post reference at the moment, just a quickie response. Cheers from lake Superior!
I believe the word "Cutless" is a registered trade name of the Johnson Duramax brand of cutlass bearings. I doubt they would be able to trade mark a generic term?? I have always known them to be called a cutlass bearing and Cutless, if you bought a Johnson Duramax cutlass..
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Old 23-08-2010, 08:36   #21
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I believe the word "Cutless" is a registered trade name of the Johnson Duramax brand of cutlass bearings...
Indeed.

Cutlass Bearings - Johnson Duramax CutlessŪ Bearings - Non Metallic Sleeve: Metric Size
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Old 26-08-2010, 15:55   #22
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So, cutlass it is (unless I'm speaking of Cutless brand)....

English is an insane language.....except compared to French, German, Finnish, .....
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Old 26-08-2010, 17:44   #23
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First its cutlass.ok now onto the packing.I would suggest that if you use the square type with teflon you get a handfull of high temp marine grade grease and coat it.I use a rubber mallet and flatten it some to help get it in the gland.make sure the cuts dont line up or you will be pissing in the wind.I like to use a 4"steel scraper like a chisle and a mallet to cut the packing to make sure its a clean cut.Also you want an exact cut for the diameter of the shaft.if its too short they sometimes will twist and will groove or crystalize the shaft or even heat up to the point where they can catch fire.I havent seen one catch on fire yet but have seen them heat up and smoke really bad.I like to take 1 wrap out with a packing puller but I have been told this isnt needed just pref.I would suggest after you get your wraps in there and put the flange back on you tap it with a heavy mallet to insure a good seat.I never slide the flange fully out and I always leave the nuts on the bolts just in case water decides to pour in.I learned this the hard way on the first one I did as a green deckeneer(what we call in the towboat business if a boat dont have an engineer or oiler)now after you done all and ready to tighten be sure to only tighten hand tight then hit the flange a few times with a heavy mallet then tighten again.Make sure the flange sets square and do not over tighten.You want just a few drops every 20-30 seconds.Run up the engine for about a min or so and watch it and tighten as needed.A failed packing can sink a boat really fast and cause major damage to the shaft.I bring this advise from my years working on inland and offshore towboats from 400hp to 8khp and have seen engine rooms almost flood from bad packing or just people not knowing wtf they were doing.Sorry for the bad typing...just not my thing.
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Old 26-08-2010, 18:11   #24
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Short fix...

Properly repacking the stuffing box has got to be the way to go, but it's not going to be simple or easy, especially if the boat's in the water.

Have you tried adding more grease? Not much is going to be forced down by the small plunger, and if the gland is dry it could take quite a bit.

I'd be tempted to keep on pushing the stuff in until it started squeezing out into the boat or I'd used a ridiculous amount.

You may also be able to tighten the gland nut (the one on the propeller shaft) if you have to right tools (big spanners). You have to be careful not to rupture the rubber part. Better to get a marine mechanic if you're not sure what to do here.

Like everything else a few photos would let everyone know better what we are looking at.

But do repack your gland at the earliest opportunity, even if you have to bring forward your next haul out or find a marine mechanic who knows how to do it.
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