Originally Posted by deltaten
From your last posting
, it appears you have the forepeak done. Could. you go into some detail as to how that went after the first 9mm lamination? Simply curious,as I'm in process (come Spring)of re-laminating my foredeck from the inside, too. Still attempting to findtthe best method
Sure I forgot that I hadn't put up all the details....
Once we glued up the first lamination we then fitted a second laminate of 9mm ply but laid up in the opposite direction, we then drilled a series of 10mm holes throughout the second layer of ply to allow for the excess glue to hydraulic out when pushed up. The outboard
and aft edges were cut on a 45' angle to allow the glass to wrap over easily.
We then plastered both surfaces to be glued with a fairly thick, not completely stiff, mixture of West Systems Epoxy
and 406 silica glue powder. To gain a good join between the two layers we used short lengths of timber to tong the ply up from the bunk top and laid out the anchor
and chain on the top of the deck to try and keep the correct camber.
Once the glue was set I jumped in with my 5" grinder to clean up all the glue that I had managed to spread everywhere. And ensure the edges were suitable for glass to wrap over and onto the existing boat.
We then taped the ply around the edges on to the hull
and forward bulkhead with 3 layers of 400 gsm tri axial glass 6"wide and the same in the centre of the deck where our mooring
clear is located (we keep her on a swing mooring) I used peel ply throughout the glassing sequence to keep grinding to a minimum but I still run a 24 or 36 grit disk over any glass before laminating to it.
We then payed up 3 layers of 400 gsm double bias in 1' strips over the triax. This layer was a bit over kill but we have a large family
and we are not really racing
her so a bit of extra weight is of no concern to us.
We then laid up 2 layers of 600 gsm double bias over the entire fore peak to finish off and seal the rest of the deck. Once cleaned up we lined the cabin
with Flex2 marine
grade nylon hull liner which is impregnated with an antibacterial chemical which stops mould growing underneath the carpet.
Our biggest problem from the repair was that the deck has ended up thicker and had to modify the thickness of the timber block that the anchor winch
is bolted through. Likewise with any other deck fittings that are a tight fit now.
Throughout the whole job I've used West Systems epoxy
as I have used it for years and trust it. We also used fast hardener to ensure we could get back in the next day and continue with the next laminate.
When fitting the new deck ware through the ply I have cut the holes and sealed the timber with a runny resin that I diluted with a methylated spirits to help it soak into the timber.
I don't think I've left anything out, the best thing you can do is be prepared, before we started we cut all the glass and timber labeled it all and stashed it in the boat in order so all we had to do was come in do a quick grind and clean then straight into laminating. I think the two of us went trough 500 or so gloves over the week it took us to do the job, and wear a hat when laminating over head
.... I had to shave my head
to get the epoxy out!!!
Shipwright by trade, adventurer by nature