Old Boat Refit (Seacocks)

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by thomm225

How about if they are all closed and tight fitting and are not opened anymore?

Some (of mine) don't have hoses attached at all or the hose is cut off and capped.

I've seen one boat sink (at the dock) with a bad hose on a thru hull and another nearly do so while out day sailing.

The second boat had a new owner and he was just excited to be a boat owner. He didn't have much experience with boats

If that was mine, I’d cap it at the very least.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

If that was mine, I’d cap it at the very least.

Really?

I thought the worry for most was the seacock seating in the fiberglass.

The one pictured above has been like that since 2011. Actually longer than that since it was like that when I bought it

This one was opened for a while then i closed it when I cut out the Y valve and the rest of the bad hoses to my head that was stinking up the boat. Most of that problem was the old "membrane" in the overboard pump

I have had some strange plugs on my other boats though. On was a plastic champagne bottle cap. This was on a 14' aluminum boat which I did take off shore about 15 miles without a radio or compass but I was fearless then because I was 17 years old

[Knotical]

I am definitely going to take them apart in winter, check them, replace ones that are badly corroded and service the ones that are fine.

Their simplicity makes them attractive to me and I will be servicing them every year from now on.

[Exile]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Im my case, we only haul the boat at a 3-5 year interval. So I’m already behind the curve on the required maintenance. Also my case, the PO or POs had failed to maintain the tapered plugs at all, so I had severe pitting on some of the smaller ones.

8 years ago I replaced three of the 3/4” tapered plug seacocks with Groco flange adapters and groco ball valves. Just in the last two weeks I finally replaced the three 1-1/2” tapered plugs with flange adapters and ball valves.

My reasoning was thus. I can spend a lot of time now pulling plugs and lapping in an impossible hole. Or I can spend the same time and replace the old with flange adapters and ball valves that only require an occasional shot of grease and can be readily replaced when damaged.

If we hauled annually for months I’d stick with the traditional serviceable plug valves. But for quite a few applications technology has changed (better or worse is your call). In our use case the tapered plugs were no longer the best choice.

You make a good point, and I suspect this is one of the main reasons why people swap out their old seacocks. On my boat anyway, it's a pretty big, often difficult job amongst many others when on the hard. And in my experience it would be difficult to stretch the maintenance interval much beyond a couple of years (if that), unless you are willing & able to dive the boat and plug each thru-hull from underneath.

But see the recent thread on a relatively new product called "Sea Bung" which, in theory, allows you to plug each thru-hull from inside the boat while you service seacocks. Unless you have a grating covering the thru hull that is.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...at-224070.html

[jhulmer]

I had a similar experience with my old seacocks when I bought the boat. They were the old cone type and they were in good shape. However, while I was on the hard, I decided it was time to change the old hoses to the cockpit drains. I loosened the hose clamps and pulled on the hose and the threaded hose barb broke off with very little effort.
Being the cockpit drains they were open all the time and below the waterline. literally weeks maybe days from sinking the boat.
AND SO, yes I replaced every through hull in the 40 yro boat! Better, I reinforced every through hull.
HIGHLY recommend changing old through hulls the metal is probably crap!

[David M]

In a nutshell, because you know what you are dealing with if you were the last one to change out something that is so critical to keeping your boat afloat.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by Exile

But see the recent thread on a relatively new product called "Sea Bung" which, in theory, allows you to plug each thru-hull from inside the boat while you service seacocks. Unless you have a grating covering the thru hull that is.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...at-224070.html

I don't see that working very well to pull a tapered plug for lapping and grease. with the standing part extending through the valve it'd be a challenge to pull the plug. Not impossible, but not likely.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by thomm225

Really?

I thought the worry for most was the seacock seating in the fiberglass.

the only thing holding back the sea in your case is the rotating plug with a handle connected. The valve can either be opened by something bumping the handle. Or the plug can even corrode slightly allowing a slow leak of water through the valve into the hull. It may not sink, but do you really want to show up to a boat that's got 2' of water in it?

For me it's cheap insurance.......for you? Who knows what motivates you.

[NorthCoastJoe]

I have a simple answer: comfort I have no worries and know whats is there.

I replace all thru hull fittings when I do my first haul out on each boat I have owned with the best materials available. In the process I replace all of the fittings and cap off some of them my goal is to reduce holes in the boat.

Heads are converted to porta potty or composting that's two less holes. Only holes I need are engine cooling, cockpit drains, raw water for galley sink and sink drains.

As a 12 year old out with my 10 year old brother on Barnegat bay we once took turns bailing and sailing as our new to us wooden boat sprung a leak out in the bay. It was going to be bail fast or a long swim. ( And as was normal in those days no PFD's ) Since then I have a thing about water tight boats. When looking at boats in a SF area marina I talked to a owner who's boat had a valve fail. He found out about it when the marina called to tell him his boat was sitting several feet lower in the water.

[Exile]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

I don't see that working very well to pull a tapered plug for lapping and grease. with the standing part extending through the valve it'd be a challenge to pull the plug. Not impossible, but not likely.

I don't see it working at all with the 'Sea Bung' extending through the valve opening. I think the procedure would be to close the valve, remove the hose, and then drop the bung down against the closed valve while you remove it. Then continue pushing the bung through the opening until it seals. I'm nevertheless dubious, however, as it seems like it would still allow a lot of water into the boat.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

the only thing holding back the sea in your case is the rotating plug with a handle connected. The valve can either be opened by something bumping the handle. Or the plug can even corrode slightly allowing a slow leak of water through the valve into the hull. It may not sink, but do you really want to show up to a boat that's got 2' of water in it?

For me it's cheap insurance.......for you? Who knows what motivates you.

You see this is the problem with an internet discussion.

You haven't felt may handles or tried to turn them. Save those comments for the beginners

You can bump my thruhull handles all you want and they won't move. I guess you didn't see the pictures very well

If my boat is gonna sink due to thru hulls it would probably be at the dock because I believe I could handle it while sailing offshore

I have quite a few tapered wooden plugs onboard and lots of rags!

As far as a boat with 2' of water in it, that was a normal thing as a teenager when I launched my boats and forgot about putting in the plug.

No problem though just jump aboard, start the engine and go. After the water drains out put the plug in

I didn't start with boats last year

Also, I have a 16' 6" Kayak as my dinghy on deck and ready to go. If I'm within 20 miles of a coast I feel like I can step into the kayak just before my boat sinks and be OK. Usually though I'm within 10-15 miles of shore most of the time like maybe 85 -90% of the posters here

This is one of my earlier boats. A Whirlwind! (like the picture with the bow forward) Mine wasn't as pretty as these though but they were good boats to take offshore 15-20 miles with a decent engine

Mine had a 1960's era 40 hp Johnson 2 stroke on it. The fold down lid instructions were to add one quart of SAE 30 oil to 6 gallons of gas.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by thomm225

You see this is the problem with an internet discussion.

You haven't felt may handles or tried to turn them. Save those comments for the beginners

You can bump my thruhull handles all you want and they won't move. I guess you didn't see the pictures very well

If my boat is gonna sink due to thru hulls it would probably be at the dock because I believe I could handle it while sailing offshore

I have quite a few tapered wooden plugs onboard and lots of rags!

As far as a boat with 2' of water in it, that was a normal thing as a teenager when I launched my boats and forgot about putting in the plug.

No problem though just jump aboard, start the engine and go. After the water drains out put the plug in

I didn't start with boats last year

Also, I have a 16' 6" Kayak as my dinghy on deck and ready to go. If I'm within 20 miles of a coast I feel like I can step into the kayak just before my boat sinks and be OK. Usually though I'm within 10-15 miles of shore most of the time like maybe 85 -90% of the posters here

This is one of my earlier boats. A Whirlwind! (like the picture with the bow forward) Mine wasn't as pretty as these though but they were good boats to take offshore 15-20 miles with a decent engine

Mine had a 1960's era 40 hp Johnson 2 stroke on it. The fold down lid instructions were to add one quart of SAE 30 oil to 6 gallons of gas.

If you’re set in your ways, why even ask. How am I supposed to know the valves won’t open easily from a photo?

I told you I don’t like what you’ve got, but it’s your boat.

IMHO your leaving of unsecured below waterline valves is massively unseamanlike. But again, it’s just my opinion.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

If you’re set in your ways, why even ask. How am I supposed to know the valves won’t open easily from a photo?

I told you I don’t like what you’ve got, but it’s your boat.

IMHO your leaving of unsecured below waterline valves is massively unseamanlike. But again, it’s just my opinion.

Not only were they somewhat tight to move after you loosened the nuts, but they have the second large locking nut

Hull photos are from November 2018 - February 2019. (w/ barrel 2014)

We had another boat at my last dock, a Catalina 25, that was slowly sinking. The owner kept pumping it out and adding pumps. The problem was a bad hose to a thru hull. Dock guy finally went on board and closed the thru hull seacock

[Pegu Club]

Originally Posted by thomm225

How about if they are all closed and tight fitting and are not opened anymore?

Some (of mine) don't have hoses attached at all or the hose is cut off and capped.

I've seen one boat sink (at the dock) with a bad hose on a thru hull and another nearly do so while out day sailing.

The second boat had a new owner and he was just excited to be a boat owner. He didn't have much experience with boats

Again, if your comfortable with your equipment... me I would have installed hoses, and replaced any seacocks that do not work, I would not tempt fate as it were, that and I have another person on board to be concerned for. We all know that folk do short cuts on their boats kit, but that’s on them. According to you, you have been sailing boats for a while, so you likely would know when you’re risking yourself or others safety while out sailing your boat, and likely don’t want or need this basic level of maintenance advice, jmo of course.

Fair winds,

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Pegu Club

Again, if your comfortable with your equipment... me I would have installed hoses, and replaced any seacocks that do not work, I would not tempt fate as it were, that and I have another person on board to be concerned for. We all know that folk do short cuts on their boats kit, but that’s on them. According to you, you have been sailing boats for a while, so you likely would know when you’re risking yourself or others safety while out sailing your boat, and likely don’t want or need this basic level of maintenance advice, jmo of course.

Fair winds,

All my seacocks work. I just have them all closed.

As far as hoses, I trust the seacock over a hose and many times it's the hose that causes the leak which is why they recommend closing all seacocks when away from your boat for a long period of time

Luckily I only really have 4 to worry about and my experience with metals that are near salt water and haven't been moved in a while makes them pretty much locked in place without leaks

Also there are a lot of boats at the various marinas that I have visited over the years (since 2009 here) that have never moved in all that time. They are still afloat. Some were in bad shape in 2009. It's amazing sometimes how long they will go without any maintenance done to them at all whereas improper maintenance can sink a boat rather quickly

I think mine are good for now but next time I pull the boat (maybe 2022) I think I'll do this scratch test as mentioned in Don Casey's Book Inspecting the Aging Sailboat. The bedding seems fine.