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Old 09-06-2009, 19:12   #16
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Screw it.

Back to plan A.

5200.

But in the fast cure.
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Old 09-06-2009, 22:49   #17
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Dow 795 was previously recommended for acrylic. It's UV resistant. That's what I used for acrylic to fiberglass a few weeks ago.
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:40   #18
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Well, today isn't the day after all.

I worked till 0200 and do not want to do this work while tired.
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Old 10-06-2009, 12:35   #19
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Therapy,
After looking at the West Marine site, 4000 UV would be fine, just use screws with it. It's a much better choice than silicone.
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Old 15-11-2009, 04:53   #20
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The PO used silicone to bed the acrylic to the hatches which are Atkins and hoyle.
The stbd side has completely lost its hold and has to be rebeded.
I would not use silicone in that capacity.

I purchased 2 of the solar nicro vents but have yet to install them. I would go with the 4200 when I do.
I plan to cut thru the cabin top in both heads and install them there. I do not want to possibly compromise the integrity of the hatch by installing it there.
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Old 16-11-2009, 04:04   #21
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A little off topic (not about gluing vents) but might be of interest to someone. After doing a beautiful job of epoxying, screwing down and installing a Nicor (great product) to replace on old original vent on the original flat point built for that old vent on our curved deck, I found that the Nicor's outboard edge left a 1" gap to the deck: perfect for some day picking up a passing jib sheet during a tack and ripping the Nicor off the deck. After struggling with a fix-design and constantly skipping the job during the refit , we finally launched without a solution.

On the first sail I grabbed a short piece of line and tied it around the base of the Nicor, which perfectly prevented line-catch. I later made a custom line for that job. Now it's just part of the routine before and after sailing.
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Old 17-11-2009, 20:09   #22
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I installed mine (day/night 4 inch model) with marine silicone and screwed through into a 1 inch thick jarrah wood backing block on the hatch underside also cut to accept the 4 inch vent housing. According to the instructions unless your hatch is thick, they sell an optional backing plate accessory for the vent which sticks down into the cabin, or you can simply make one. This protects the underneath of the vent/fan gizmo from getting whacked by something in the cabin....like your head.

No way would I simply glue on a vent over a 3 inch or 4 inch hole in the hatch, 3M 5200 or not. Screw it in. And silicone is used because I am under no illusions that the fan will likely need to be replaced probably sooner than later, and it's much easier to remove by breaking a silicone seal and removing 3 screws than trying to pry off 3M 5200. It's not a below water throughhull that only needs replacing once every 20 years. It's a plastic fan, a plastic solar panel, and a thin stainless steel skin for looks.
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