New Sailboat - First Time Winterizing

[The Judith Lynn]

Hello,

I just purchased a mid-80's Cape Dory 31 sailboat (with a Universal diesel engine) and will be keeping it in Mamaroneck, NY on Long Island Sound. This is my first boat and I really would like to learn how to do as much maintenance myself as possible. I was wondering if someone that is in the area might be able to help guide me through the winterization process before I lay it up for the winter in two weeks. Or at the very least, recommend someone that could help. I've called several local mechanics and even posted an ad on Craigslist, but with no success. I've been watching YouTube videos and reading the owner's manual and Nigel Calder's books, but I would feel much more comfortable with an experienced person watching over my shoulder. I'd be more than willing to compensate you for your time.

Thank you very much.

Dave

[Don C L]

Welcome aboard Dave! Congratulations on a great boat in my humble opinion! I am on the opposite coast, but I am sure someone will chime in who is closer to home there. You might have a look at the plastic classics social group, there may be someone there who can help if you look at their profiles. Here are a couple links that might help:
Cruisers & Sailing Forums - Plastic Classics
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ic-160329.html
Cruisers & Sailing Forums - Alberg

https://www.boatingmag.com/boats/how...-diesel-engine

Good luck! Keep us posted!

[dfelsent]

Ask your yard to winterize her. Then ask the mechanic to teach you. You might have to work through the service manager to deal with the scheduling. My experience is that most mechanics are very happy to teach owners what’s up.

[The Judith Lynn]

Originally Posted by Don C L

Welcome aboard Dave! Congratulations on a great boat in my humble opinion! I am on the opposite coast, but I am sure someone will chime in who is closer to home there. You might have a look at the plastic classics social group, there may be someone there who can help if you look at their profiles. Here are a couple links that might help:
Cruisers & Sailing Forums - Plastic Classics
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ic-160329.html
Cruisers & Sailing Forums - Alberg

https://www.boatingmag.com/boats/how...-diesel-engine

Good luck! Keep us posted!

Don,

Thank you very much for the very quick response! Will do.

Best,

Dave

[Stu Jackson]

Engines 101 - The BIGGEST & BEST collection of M25 Series Universal Engine Information on the Internet, plus some M35, too

Diesel Engine - c34.org

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Dave.

[TrentePieds]

Welcome Dave :-)!

Let's not make mountains of molehills :-) Ask yourself what there is in a CD31 that can be damaged by frost. You'll find that the list is very short. I take it you will be putting the boat on the hard in the Eastern US.

Start with your potable water system. Obviously it could freeze, and as you know, a volume of water expands as it freezes and has the potential to burst tanks and hoses. It's the hoses particularly you have to worry about. You can buy non-toxic antifreeze. When you add it to the system, make sure you run all faucets long enuff that water drawn from each one into a container gives you a hydrometer reading indicating that your system is now safe down to whatever temperature you consider safe. In the spring you drain and flush the system with fresh potable water.

Where else is there water? In your toilet and holding tank. Obviously you pump out your holding tank before you haul. Then, working through your toilet bowl, flush the system with plain water with non-toxic antifreeze in it, leaving the flushwater in the tank. The AF should be non-toxic because after relaunch it will obviously find its way into the sea.

There is also water in your engine cooling system. Your fresh water side will already have antifreeze in it. Use your hydrometer to verify that the mix is strong enuff to meet you expected lowest temperature - plus a bit. If it is not, then adjust it by adding more full strength AF. What about the oil in your engine? I've never lived in an area cold enuff to freeze engine and tranny oil. The engine manual for your engine will tell you in detail what to do to "winterize" it. Just follow those instructions.

When all the above is done, take a few minutes to sponge out your bilge so there is no water left there. Pumping never clears the bilge entirely, so get the residual with a sponge.

Cold, in itself, will not damage the interior structure and furnishings of your boat. Dampness might, so make provision for VENTILATION of the interior. Supplying heat is in my opinion a bit of a problem because RELATIVELY warm air will contain moisture that will condense on cold surfaces. Therefore I prefer not to supply heat. I keep all horizontal surfaces - including those within drawers and cupboards - perfectly bare so there is noting to trap air an permit mould spores to do their evil work. Mould spores only grow to actual mould within a narrow humidity range. That is why clothing left in drawers or on surfaces will guarantee the mould starting. It all but guarantees that the air humitiy under the clothing will be in that critical range.

So you see, just be sensible and systematic about it, and it strops being a worry :-)

All the best

TrentePieds

[basssears]

Originally Posted by TrentePieds

There is also water in your engine cooling system. Your fresh water side will already have antifreeze in it.

Don't forget raw water side. Remive hose from intake through hull, prime then stick in bucket of antifreeze and run engine to move antifreeze through whole system. Consider putting in a hose bib or something that will help make this easier in future.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by basssears

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Consider putting in a hose bib or something that will help make this easier in future.

True about the rw side, but be careful:


Winterizing an Engine on the Hard (Thanks to Maine Sail) - NEVER connect a hose to your raw water pump inlet - NEVER!!!

http://forums.catalina.sailboatowner...ht=winterizing

[basssears]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

True about the rw side, but be careful:


Winterizing an Engine on the Hard (Thanks to Maine Sail) - NEVER connect a hose to your raw water pump inlet - NEVER!!!

http://forums.catalina.sailboatowner...ht=winterizing

On my phone, being lazy typing, should have been clearer. I put a female garden hose spigot t inline in my raw water intake line so I can close sea valve, screw on short section of garden hose and use that to siphon fresh water and/or antifreeze from a 5 gallon bucket... saves me having to wrestle the hose off the sea valve every time.

Obviously use quality bronze not home store plastic.

Definitely do not use this access point to run a pressurized garden hose into your water system, bad idea.

[TrentePieds]

Quite right - my oversight. My only excuse - such as it is :-) - is that where Stu and I keep our boats we typically stay afloat all year and don't have to worry about the RW side My thanks to Bassears and Stu :-)

But let's also, then, explain to our new friend that the reason for not FORCING water through the RW side (as by hooking up a hose twixt the yards water supply and the R/W intake) is that it WILL find it's way via the exhaust manifold to the cylinders. Very costly! For a CD31 count on 15 boatbux to replace the engine!

TP

[salfarina]

Hello Judith Lynn,


I'm right across the Sound from you - in Manhasset Bay. All of the above advice is quite valuable and can appear daunting, so I suggest you make an investment this year by having the yard do it and observing how it's done. Also, you should go aboard every couple of weeks and check your bilge (winter water can be a PIA) and while aboard open a portlight for ventilation. I strongly recommend you install the Nicro solar vents - they run 24/7/365. I've had 2 (one intake, one exhaust) for 28 years and never experienced the tiniest of mold spores! Make sure all cabinet doors, inside storage hatch boards, bilge boards, drawers, etc. are left either fully open or ajar (for air circulation). Also - if your cockpit drains lead to sea cocks or shut off valves, be sure to leave them open.


Best of Luck this winter!

[Mplight]

....and if you winterize the engine, potable water tanks, etc make sure you use antifreeze WITHOUT achohol, ethanol.... you can find Marine/RV antifreeze at HD, you’ll know it’s the right stuff because it’ll be twice the price of the other Pink antifreeze.
It sounds more daunting than it sounds- it’s relatively easy and you tube has many videos.
Crucial tools: Garden hose, 5 Gal bucket and appropriate connections. I’ve done it on the hard and in the water. Also a good time to change oil, fuel filters and remove and store water pump impeller.
Enjoy the savings over yard charges! The more familiar with your systems, the easier to trouble shoot and fix future issues.....’cause there are ALWAYS future issues.

[hamburking]

Originally Posted by dfelsent

Ask your yard to winterize her.

The only way to know its done right, is to do it yourself. I know several owners who have ended up in court after freezing damage. Trusting a stranger to do it right is like....trusting a stranger to do it right! No one knows your boat better than you.

Dave has the right idea. Learn what needs to be done and do it. Its not rocket science. If I was a little closer, I'd help him for sure (I'm on Lake Ontario).

I've always winterized my own boats, and never had any damage. And I had to learn it all before there was an internet and youtube to show you how.

The gist of it all....eliminate all water, especially in confined spaces...like the engine block, pumps, hoses, etc. Of course there's more to it, but thats a good start.

And finally, I also agree (IMHO) that the CD31 is an excellent boat.

[hamburking]

I have always loosened off the tension in the rig...a little (if leaving the mast up. Obviously mast down is the best solution). The cold makes the stays contract more than the mast, increasing tension overall. The forces can become huge on a bitter cold day.

Am I the only one who does this?

Also, the keel on the hard pushed UP, whereas in the water, the keel hangs down. This is opposite to the design criteria of the boat, and the effect is to "bow" the boat in the opposite direction, again increasing tension on the rig.

I used to take the mast down every winter. Then I got old and tired (lazy) and started leaving it up instead.

At my location, 40 below is considered the lowest expected temp, although it rarely get colder than 30 below.

The real problem, like most places, is the large number of freeze/thaw cycles.