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Old 27-03-2007, 16:04   #16
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Yes, BBill,
Has it the right way and I use two part epoxy paints. After I sprinkle the sand on the wet paint and let the paint dry I use a foxtail to sweep the loose sand away and use one coat of light colored two part epoxy paint over the top of the sand. Works great. I've had the same coating on my fordeck for 17 years and it still doesn't slip. You can repaint over the sand several times/seasons until it looses its grip then just add sand over your next wet coat.
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Old 27-03-2007, 16:39   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBill
Epoxy RESIN is best but paint does the job too.
Bill,
To clarify, roll out a two part epoxy (ie Sys 3), sprinkle sand, roll another coat after it cures, sprinkle more sand, then cover with a two part epoxy paint.
I've not tried bedding the sand in epoxy, though it sounds like a good idea.

Fair leads,
Aaron N.
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Old 27-03-2007, 17:32   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blahman
Bill,
To clarify, roll out a two part epoxy (ie Sys 3), sprinkle sand, roll another coat after it cures, sprinkle more sand, then cover with a two part epoxy paint.
I've not tried bedding the sand in epoxy, though it sounds like a good idea.

Fair leads,
Aaron N.
Try to do all the sand on the 1st coat...but if you need more do it on the 2nd coat. Epoxy resin is stronger and last longer but you have to color it with pigment...mixed in the resin. It usually takes a LOT of pigment to make clear resin opaque so do some trial samples first. You can also do the first sand coat in epoxy and do the followup coats in color paint (or all of it in 2 part epoxy paint as posted already)...that's the easiest way. Or a single part polyurethane like Brightsides will last an easy 5-8 yrs in the direct Florida sun and only require one fresh coat to bring it back. Sun fades it but it doesn't chip and peel, etc. Petit Easypoxy is a totally different story...I've done them side by side on the same boat and Petit had about half the life of Brightsides...and turned to dust. 2 part polyurethanes work too. Either way, let the first coat tack enough to hold the sand stable...the then do the 2nd/3rd coat.

Durabak was mentioned. I read on another web site (iboats) where several Boston Whaler guys used it to restore their 13's. They said it applied easy and stuck well but faded badly after a yr or two. I think they said Durabak has an exterior and interior version...one fades and the other doesn't. Yrs back I inquired at Durabak's web site and they sent samples of the colors I wanted.

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Old 07-04-2007, 04:22   #19
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Lay New Nonskid ~ Practical Sailor
http://www.practical-sailor.com/news...845nonskid.pdf

The Fiberglass Boat Repair Manual ~ By Allan H. Vaitses
(Goto page 80)
The Fiberglass Boat Repair Manual - Google Book Search
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Old 08-04-2007, 00:54   #20
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I have used the method COLEMJ has described for years with great success. Prep is important in any job. After I scuff up the decks, I wash (lightly) with acetone. The last 2 boats I did I changed to LPU paint with cabosil. It also worked great and was a little more rubbery (is that a word?). I have seen people struggle with other methods and I feel cabosil and either gelcoat or LPU work hands down.
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Old 30-04-2007, 01:31   #21
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Hi,

I've used Kosher salt poured over epoxy. Wash thoroughly after the epoxy sets up; nice surface on bare feet, looks good, wears quite well.
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Old 30-04-2007, 13:24   #22
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NON SKID

I just last week ran into a fellow who is very experienced in coatings(he develops specs for coating water towers etc.) He had applied DuraBak to the decks of his rebuilt C&C Corvette and it looked great. He said he's had it on for about a year and a half and is completely satisfied. I walkd on it and by golly it is "soft on the feet" and no pain to kneel on either (don't try kneeling on sand or stippled epoxy - you'll need nuskin on your knees).

So, I've orderd a quart of the stuff and a roller cover and will try it on my aft deck before I decidet to coat the whole deck. I'll report my results.

Fair winds to all,

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Old 30-04-2007, 15:47   #23
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Beach sand is as good as it gets . It doesn't wear out like the trendy stuff they sell to suckers.Paint, then sprinkle the sand on with a salt shaker, then paint again.
Brent
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Old 30-04-2007, 18:30   #24
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Quote:
I've used Kosher salt poured over epoxy. Wash thoroughly after the epoxy sets up; nice surface on bare feet, looks good, wears quite well.
I've done the same with granulated sugar and polyester gloss resin on sailboard decks and it works great.

Mike
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Old 30-04-2007, 19:01   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis Riel
Beach sand is as good as it gets . It doesn't wear out like the trendy stuff they sell to suckers.Paint, then sprinkle the sand on with a salt shaker, then paint again.
Brent
What's the trendy stuff and who are the suckers? Which beach works best?
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Old 01-05-2007, 01:57   #26
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The BoatUS foundation tested seven types of commercial non-skid surfaces that can be applied to decks, cockpits, cabins, galleys, and engine rooms to increase traction and prevent slips and falls.
Their 1995 report:
BoatUS Foundation Findings Report #23: Non-Skid Deck Applictions - November 1995

“Trendy stuff” might be any commercially formulated product for sale; and a “sucker” might be anyone who spends more than $50 on a year’s provisions (beans, but not Stokely's).
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Old 01-05-2007, 09:20   #27
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I have Tred Master down on my deck and would do it again. Don't like the sand are whatever they mix with the paint as a non-skid.

I think it is the easier way to go than the molding in the epoxy nod skid. The tred master looks great and I understand that they have a paint to coast the old tred masters that have lost there color.
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