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Old 23-03-2008, 21:13   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob kingsland View Post
The 6061 T6 will be stiffer and will sweep to a very fair curve simply by pulling it into the hull. The 6063 T5 is typically used for bending, when you're using rollers or dies, because the 6061 will crack when machine bent whereas the 6063 will not. It is my understanding that the 6063 'becomes' 6061 in a year or 18 months as it ages, that is, it has the same characteristics of 6061 over time, so perhaps in this application you could go with the 6063. As long as you're not doing any radical machine bends, I really don't think it matters much which one it is.
As I said above, the countersink included angle for US fasteners is 82 degrees.
Hope this helps, Bob S/V Restless
Thanks Bob.
Attached is part of my research from an Aluminum Manufacturer.
The 6061 T6 certainly is a lot stronger. Once it is up into either of these 2 strengths, I wonder if strength is an issue?
I wonder which would be more resistant to salt water? By the words, I'm thinking the 6061 saying "Excellent" and the 6063 being "Good".
Maybe someone knows something about the major alloying elements in each of the Aluminum types?
Maybe the best choice would be the 6063 T6?
Best Regards
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Old 23-03-2008, 22:59   #17
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Originally Posted by SkiprJohn View Post
P. S. I think everyone knows that even though a subject has been discussed on a different thread that the search engine is not working very well and we have to help folks find the threads if we have some old memory of the discussion.
Kind Regards,
JohnL
Thanks John,
I have been following your thread with interest.
And hopefully, in the future I will get my Ham License for a radio that came with my boat.
Thanks Again.
Extemp.
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Old 24-03-2008, 07:53   #18
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Extemp: If you were doing a rail on a transom sterned boat, the 6061 would probably be best, since I think you could just pull it into place and it would spring nice and fair. But since the Corbin 39 is round sterned, you have to roll at least one piece into the arc of your stern, and thus the 6063 is probably more appropriate, at least for that piece, as it can theoretically more easily be formed without cracking. I don't know what kind of custom dies you'll need for rolling it, though. Hope this helps, Bob S/V Restless
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Old 24-03-2008, 08:32   #19
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After thousands upon thousands of hours hiking I can honestly say I hate that type of track and much prefer a flat track. Sorry.
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Old 10-04-2008, 20:03   #20
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Hi,
Stumbled upon this thread and wanted to put my 2 cents in.
My company in Mentor Ohio stocks aluminum toerail and produces custom aluminum toe rail and t track shapes. Purchased all the Meriman Holbrook shapes in the 80's.
Crest Aluminum Marine Extrusions - Toerail & T Track
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Old 10-04-2008, 20:15   #21
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error?

After reading the rules...I feel I have made an error by posting my company's web site for toerail information. If I have, please let me know where it is appropriate to place such a post.

I understand that this area is not to be used for commercial purposes and I apologize.
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Old 11-04-2008, 12:01   #22
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Thanks J,
I don't know the rules either but I think there is a commercial area. Gord May knows how and if you PM him he'll make it clear.
Good to meet you. Your products look great.
Kind Regards,
JohnL
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Old 17-03-2009, 20:56   #23
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Just occured to me

I didn't post any pic's of the final product.
A lot of work, but I'm happy the way it turned out.
I've also included a drawing of the Stanchion bases that are being made right now.

Cheers,
Extemp.
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Old 18-03-2009, 12:27   #24
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Congratulations! The toerail looks really great. Good job. How do you get the stanchion bases in place? They look form fit.

Kind regards,
JohnL
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Old 18-03-2009, 13:50   #25
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Have you considered having the Toerail punched with square holes and using SS Carriage bolts for fastening? Clean smooth bolt heads on deck and dont need some one to hold the outside as you tightenYou're kind of going backwards on this one. Most boat builders got rid of the toerail extrusions due to leaks and corrosion (SS vs Alum) years ago. The do serve a good utility though. T5 or T6 should be fine. The issue you will have is gouging into the aluminum, (through the anodizing) where you attach things. A 'D' shackle with a fairlead to it will make short work of the aluminum edge. Maybe you can come up with a D shackle that is restrained from flopping around, maybe with rubber self adhesive tape or something so it doesnt rattle on the aluminum with every flop of the sail. Then attach your block etc to that.... I've been on enough beat up racing boats to know that it happens pretty fast... On the other and... if your extrusion is thick enough at the bearing surface, the world wont end.. alum is pretty forgiving... .... I would use 3M 5200 for bedding.
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Old 18-03-2009, 19:21   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiprJohn View Post
Congratulations! The toerail looks really great. Good job. How do you get the stanchion bases in place? They look form fit.

Kind regards,
JohnL
Thanks John. It took a lot of time, effort and you know what el$e, but I'm very pleased with the way it turned out.
See the attached stanchion base prototype.
However, I don't think I will make them like this. Toooooo expensive. Every aspect of it is machine except the outside diameter.
I'm thinking that I'll use 316 ss tube, have the profile of the toe rail cut out of it (like the prototype) but not split it in half (it's machined that precisely). I'll then slip it over the toe rail (spread it slightly if I have to) from the end and into place. The lower 5/16" hole will clamp the base to the toe rail and the upper hole will fasten the stanchion in place.
Quote:
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On the other and... if your extrusion is thick enough at the bearing surface, the world wont end.. alum is pretty forgiving... .... I would use 3M 5200 for bedding.
Cheechako, it's made and installed!
I do know that it will get beat up, that's too bad, I'll have to live with that. Perhaps I'd have used ss if I could afford to extrude it. This was expensive enough. I used Sikaflex 291 LOT. More flexible and I figured with 5/16" machine screws at 4" centers, it didn't need to be glued. To describe the install a bit, I would caulk (pressure caulk) down through the countersunk hole and when I saw caulking at the next hole, I would then drill through the toe rail hole (messy) and down through the hull to deck joint to the interior. Needless to say, I used a lot of caulking. I can't imagine sealing it better. We'll see, time will tell.

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