need temporary solution to this....

[Incentive]

this boat has never seen salt water, I understand she needs a proper keel job. however if I can do a quick fix and do the real job end of season... what can I do? how to?

[Pete7]

Scrape any old sealant out of the join. Sand smooth the worst of the rust. Apply rust killer and allow to dry. Fill gap with sealant and smooth with wet finger or wet paint brush.

Coat keel with 4-6 coats of Primocon International paint. Paint hull and keel with antifoul paint.

Go sailing and don't worry about something you can't see.

This is all we do each year, well occasionally a bit more of a sanding but the same idea.

Pete

[Stu Jackson]

Uhm, don't the rust streaks concern you?

[Incentive]

Originally Posted by Pete7

Scrape any old sealant out of the join. Sand smooth the worst of the rust. Apply rust killer and allow to dry. Fill gap with sealant and smooth with wet finger or wet paint brush.

Coat keel with 4-6 coats of Primocon International paint. Paint hull and keel with antifoul paint.

Go sailing and don't worry about something you can't see.

This is all we do each year, well occasionally a bit more of a sanding but the same idea.

Pete

Thanks pete7...what kind of sealant???

[Jim Cate]

If that is a cast iron keel, the rust streaks are not so much of a worry, but it it is a lead keel one might suspect serious degradation of the keel bolts.

It is a pretty conservative keel design, and not likely to do a Cheeki Rafiki number, but still...

Jim

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

If that is a cast iron keel, the rust streaks are not so much of a worry, but it it is a lead keel one might suspect serious degradation of the keel bolts.

It is a pretty conservative keel design, and not likely to do a Cheeki Rafiki number, but still...

Jim

From an expanded view of the picture, I'm pretty sure it's an iron keel. But I'd be concerned because the rust is coming from individual spots rather then the whole length.

If the boat spends a fair amount of time out of the water, the streaks could be from the bilge daring out the bolt holes and that would be a problem b/c that means the sealant is gone around the bolts too creating wet bolts w/o oxygen. Iron oxide grows faster when captured which swells up and can cause damage to the surrounding surfaces.

[boatman61]

If your worried you could give a tap test a go.. clean of the tops of rust/sludge/whatever..
Long screwdriver, small pin hammer... place the blade where the bolt comes through the top of the nut.. place ear on screwdriver top (hold by handle not shaft) and tap the nut firmly with hammer.
All should sound the same.. if one has a duller thunk than the others it could well be suspect..
Otherwise as Pete7 said..

[boatpoker]

irresponsible advice ! why not try scotch tape.

Not nearly enough information or photos to make an informed recommendation.

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

irresponsible advice ! why not try scotch tape.

Not nearly enough information or photos to make an informed recommendation.

Hey.. I'm a Luddite.. Whadya expect Science...

[landonshaw]

I purchased a boat 6 years ago and the surveyor NSAID the keel needed dropped and bolts replaced. The iron keel looked solid, a little rust. Hit a reef November 25 and sheared 4 bolts and was taking on a lot of water at night. Got hauled out, dropped the keel. Of the 6 remaining bolts, 4 more sheared. Only two were good. Of course the ss bolts rust from the inside out. I was lucky. The keel job took only a week, that included shipping in round bar from Trinidad and having it machined.

I recommend replacing the bolts if you are at all in doubt. Not long time, fairly inexpensive. If not done it could turn into a very bad day. I was lucky.

[Stu Jackson]

Another way to say this is: What's your entire boat and your life worth to you?

Only YOU can answer that question, 'cuz we can't do metallurgy from photographs.

It's kinda like the skipper asking us: "My standing rigging is 33 years old. Do you think I should replace it? I'm sailing across the North Atlantic in February. I need the answer right now, 'cuz I'm leaving tomorrow."

Leaving might be the operative word.

[Incentive]

Originally Posted by boatman61

If your worried you could give a tap test a go.. clean of the tops of rust/sludge/whatever..
Long screwdriver, small pin hammer... place the blade where the bolt comes through the top of the nut.. place ear on screwdriver top (hold by handle not shaft) and tap the nut firmly with hammer.
All should sound the same.. if one has a duller thunk than the others it could well be suspect..
Otherwise as Pete7 said..

ya thats how we use to torque cylinder heads in the old days, sounds like a good idea, thanks

[Incentive]

I will sail this boat from ottawa to Montreal.... RIVERS always within a short distance to shore... I can afford the risk if there's any.
last year I crossed lake huron and the georgian bay, I would not do this type of offshore without a proper keel job... common sens!

[Marqus]

Originally Posted by landonshaw

Of the 6 remaining bolts, 4 more sheared. Only two were good. Of course the ss bolts rust from the inside out.

About the stainless bolts rusting from the inside out - could you explain a little what you mean? Thanks.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

Uhm, don't the rust streaks concern you?

No.

What might surprise you is my keel bolts on both keels are mild steel.

The join between the keel and the GRP is a 'mare' and water gets in behind what ever sealant you stick in there eventually. Treating cast iron keels is an on going job each year. The good news is its all low tech, scrape off the worst, paint some rust killer on and give it a few coats of good paint followed by the antifoul. Occasionally you have to take the hole side of the keel back to metal but its not every year. The worst spot is the bottom of the keels. Using a sandy beach a couple of times a year when the tide goes out normally keeps that bit clean.

Pete