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Old 02-03-2009, 06:24   #16
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I have used Treadmaster at boarding "step on" points for several years, it is very slip resistant and protects the boat surface.
I think it would be better not bend it over the nose of the treads but cut it to fit as a pad on the top horizontal surfaces only, I don't think you will need it on the forward edge of the steps.
I used white on my previous boat on my current one I applied the grey the white shows dirt more.
The diamond tread is pretty agrresive and might not feel too good if you or your crew go barefoot and have sensitive feet.
Good luck
Steve
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:26   #17
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James,

Yes, that's what I meant, I didn't realize you wanted it to form over the forward edge. Like Steve said, I don't think that is needed nor a good idea.

Treadmaster and similar products are mostly installed as flat sections cut with well rounded corners. This way, they perform very good but they have a history of coming loose or failing when bent or not having round corners. I think you will be able to find Treadmaster installation instructions on the net when you search with Google. It will even state minimum radius for corners.

Also, as Steve already wrote, your feet are gonna need to adjust to it. For companionway steps I would select a different method. These are the choices coming to my mind:

1. Alternative less aggressive pads. I think I remember Treadmaster makes these too but I selected 3M last time because I could order them easily from West Marine. We have/had crushed walnut shells on our steps, two bands epoxied for each step. It's coming off after a couple of years so that's not recommended although it works very good on the floor and we wouldn't want anything else (good on feet too).

2. Very good looking but little less grip: use fine sand (like from pet supply shops for bird cages) in varnish with a layer varnish over it. Do this like the pads: 3 pieces for each step and not around inside-corners/edges and with rounded corners. You would do this after complete finishing of the steps: tape the sections (with precision tape, not paper tape), varnish, put 1/4" heap of sand on it and put some down-pressure on it like with a spatula (don't move it sideways as it'll slip in the varnish). After drying, sweep off excess (use again) and touch with sandpaper if there are high points (use less varnish on next step if so). Your aim is a layer of sand exactly 1 grain high and 100% coverage. The sand grains need to be the same size so be picky selecting it (paint manufacturers sell it too) but keep it fine not too course for best looks. Now coat again to make it strong. You will need more sand for the side-pieces as you need to heap it up against the sides. The result will be very good looking, nothing else comes close!

cheers,
Nick.
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Old 02-03-2009, 09:51   #18
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Thanks guys...I appreciate your time on this.

I had a non-skid surface on the original steps that was basically diamond groves cut into the tread...it was fine for the flat and but for obvious reasons didn't extend to the nose,
I busted my butt a couple times coming down and finally put some nonskid tape on the nosing’s and that solved it...but after several years the abrasive sand looking stuff did eventually where off.

I may give the sand/varnish a go.
At least I'll be able to maintain it.

I have been taking note over the last week of how I go down the steps....turns out my size 12 feet are at about 45deg angle and quite near the side of the steps where the stringers are...I'm starting to rethink angling the ends up as I think it will be very uncomfortable going down....up they would be great…but that’s not when I fall!!

Thanks again for your excellent input.
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Old 02-03-2009, 19:05   #19
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Treadmaster is a great product for decks.
For stairs my plan is to just sand all old varnish off, to bare teak, then using a router, scribe lines in the tread from one side to the other leaving a slightly raised area on each tread. It looks good, and performs well from what I hear.

Or you could do what the dashews do and glue ground walnut shells to each tread, or a non skid additive. But I like the idea of the raised area on a bare teak tread better.
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Old 02-03-2009, 21:06   #20
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Or you could do what the dashews do and glue ground walnut shells to each tread, or a non skid additive. But I like the idea of the raised area on a bare teak tread better.
Bob,

That's what I wrote: we have that, Jedi is a Sundeer and it is very nice but the companionway steps are just the spot where it doesn't hold: too much wear there, it'll come off.

Also, I agree that regular flat steps are better for going down. Also, handgrips in the sides above every step and the exact same distance between each step are crucial. Also, the distance between the top step and the companionway entrance should be the same as the distance between the steps, even if you normally step over that directly on the (somewhat lower) cockpit sole. Visitors tend not to do that and they are the first to take the fall because they are not familiar with the steps.

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Old 08-03-2009, 12:10   #21
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companionway stairs

Finally found an image of c'way stairs I'd like to do, but don't quite have room for:
This is Signe, Joe Artese Design http://http://www.artesedesign.com/JA3.htm

Best, Bob S/V Restless
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Old 08-03-2009, 12:57   #22
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Yeh those are nice Bob...looks a lot like the late 70s Formosa 51 steps.

They look to have a pretty considerable "run" given their "rise"

That companionway hatch may have a long throw/opening.

That’s a pretty darn cool looking skylight as well....I see he has used it on other vessels.

Interesting site...the concave deck is a very cool idea.

Thanks for the link.

Got any new pics of your beauty?...the boat I mean!
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Old 08-03-2009, 12:57   #23
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It seems to me that you need a large flat area on the steps for comfort. That bend is going to be uncomfortable if you like to stand in the companionway under the dodger sometimes under way, to my thinking the larger and flatter surface the better. Having enough "upturn" at the end to just get your toe on is not going to be comfortable. That's one long ladder you need there! Consider large flat steps with storage under each step and each step surface a hinged lid...? I knew a builder once who offered a concave cabin floor (low in the center and curving up outboard). His reasoning was better footing at sea. That mey be true and It looked really unique when done, but it was uncomfortable as heck.
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Old 08-03-2009, 13:00   #24
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It's true the nose of the step is easy to slip on, I would keep that bullnose minimal and run the treadmaster up near the edge.
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Old 08-03-2009, 13:00   #25
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Yes, how about that dome skylight and the Persian carpets and the table setting! I sure hope it's kept in a calm marina though ;-)

cheers,
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Old 08-03-2009, 13:09   #26
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Cheechako
Your right about the up-turned ends...I have changed my mind on that...going up they are great but standing or going down while on the hook they're not going to be comfortable.
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Old 08-03-2009, 14:22   #27
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Bob Perry's design Tatoosh 51 has a very similar compainonway steps as that pic, although a bit smaller. Was on of my favorite things about the boat, to bad it got away. Only a few built.
The skylight reminds me of the Gozzard's. But again this one is a lot bigger.
Wouldn't want to take breaking seas over that.
Jedi your right about this being a fair weather/marina boat.
Wonder how many servants she sleeps... lol.
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Old 08-03-2009, 16:19   #28
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c'way stairs

Yes, the Formosa 50 and Tatoosh 51 are similar, and I may be able to do something like theirs when I get there.
Here's another pic of Signe.
James, you're right, that has to be a pretty long hatch.
She's 100', so I imagine those place settings are pretty secure on a dock or a mooring. The sky light has apparently survived some extensive travel.

Best, Bob S/V Restless
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