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Old 28-04-2008, 11:10   #1
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Need Advice - windlass install

I will be installing a Lewmar Pro windlass(H1000) which calls for a 3" hole in deck for the chain/rode to pass thru to the locker below.

My question is: what do I use to coat the bare edges of the hole to keep water from permeating the core of the deck?

TIA
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Old 28-04-2008, 11:18   #2
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epoxy, quite often what is done is a slightly larger hole is drilled, filled with epoxy and then the right sized hole is then drilled in the epoxy.
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Old 31-10-2008, 16:08   #3
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New hole in the deck

Hi first I would drill the hole the size required (ie 3") then you need to remove some of the sandwich material be it balsa or whatever, what works quite well is if you grind the tip of an allen key to a sharp chisel edge and use it carefully in a drill you can remove some of the sandwich, clean out with acetone and fill with epoxy, I would reccomend West system or similar, you will want a little colloidal silica to stop sagging and if you can get some 5mm glass fibres and some microfibres you can make up a quite strong mix to fill the gap, if you can't get 5mm glass fibres buy a small bit of woven glass and slice it up to give yourself some fibres to make a 'gobbing up' mix. Once it has gone off you can clean up the hole with a coarse file. Best of luck.
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Old 01-11-2008, 02:32   #4
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See “PREPARING A CORED DECK FOR NEW HARDWARE”, page 14 of "Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair" ~ By Don Casey
Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair - Google Book Search

and

Hardware Bonding 1, 2, & 3:
http://www.pearson40.org/Hardware%20bonding%201.pdf
http://www.pearson40.org/Hardware%20bonding%202.pdf
http://www.pearson40.org/Hardware%20bonding%203.pdf
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Old 01-11-2008, 06:16   #5
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Only bore through the top layer. Then do exactly as Cacique (btw a great Venezuelan rum) says, then rebore the hole all the way through. This usually saves a lot of effort.
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Old 01-11-2008, 08:58   #6
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Or you could get a piece of fiberglass exhaust tube with 3" ID, drill your hole large enough for its OD and then glass that in place. that way you will have about 1/8 inch of solid fiberglass protecting the core.
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Old 01-11-2008, 09:13   #7
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Only bore through the top layer. Then do exactly as Cacique (btw a great Venezuelan rum) says, then rebore the hole all the way through. This usually saves a lot of effort.

Would you then not need the filler for the epoxy?

Would it be stronger and less brittle (over time) if the glass and/or micro balloons were used anyway?
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Old 02-11-2008, 18:45   #8
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Would you then not need the filler for the epoxy?

Would it be stronger and less brittle (over time) if the glass and/or micro balloons were used anyway?
GordMay Has all the answers!!
micro balloons are very lightweight and should only be used for fairing/filling where no strenghth is needed and above the waterline.
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Old 02-11-2008, 19:52   #9
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GordMay Has all the answers!!
micro balloons are very lightweight and should only be used for fairing/filling where no strenghth is needed and above the waterline.

So it is just solid epoxy?

No glass either?
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Old 02-11-2008, 20:19   #10
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mounting

winddanser,
epoxy a piece of 3" PVC pipe cut to size for the chain to drop thru. I put 5ply above my foam core & solid block (backing) PVC under fitted with helicoils to take the bolts.

Regards Bill Goodward
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Old 03-11-2008, 16:56   #11
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So it is just solid epoxy?

No glass either?
You need to mix the epoxy then add fillers, I advise a little colloidal silica this stops the mix sagging then you need some cut fibres if you can get them or slice up a small peice of woven matt, also use microfibers and high density filler.
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Old 03-11-2008, 17:05   #12
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You need to mix the epoxy then add fillers, I advise a little colloidal silica this stops the mix sagging then you need some cut fibres if you can get them or slice up a small peice of woven matt, also use microfibers and high density filler.
Cheers Jamie

I am referring only to the example above.

It is like filling a teacup - pour it in till it is full.

The question is, is there a need for fillers of any kind to make it stronger. There is no "sag" in the above example.

??
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Old 05-11-2008, 14:53   #13
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The question is, is there a need for fillers of any kind to make it stronger. There is no "sag" in the above example.

Answer:-
Most definately yes imagine a fibreglass boat without the glass mat you could kick it and it would smash.
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Old 05-11-2008, 17:32   #14
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The question is, is there a need for fillers of any kind to make it stronger. There is no "sag" in the above example.

Answer:-
Most definately yes imagine a fibreglass boat without the glass mat you could kick it and it would smash.

Well, that is what I think but the reason given for the fillers in this thread and all others I have read in the past is to reduce/stop "sag", not increase strength.

I am no fiberglass expert. I have only done what needed to be done on my and a few others boats.

So I wanted to ask.

Then there will be (obviously) the discussion of the depth and breadth of the filled area and just how far one should go before fillers are needed since just sealing a little 2mm area may not really need it................
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Old 06-11-2008, 13:57   #15
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Hi, you need to cut back the core at the very least 5mm I would go 10-12mm clean the gap with acetone and fill with epoxy, as I advised earlier I would use some cut up woven cloth or some cut glass fibres if you can find them, a little filler could be added if you want but the glass strands is what gives the strength. A 2mm coating as you suggest is no good at all, the chail rattling through the deck is quite abrasive and if you get a twist in the chain it can jam in the hole and would rip out the filler in next to no time, also I have seen where water gets into the core and decays it, not what you want.
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