Nauticat 52 Refit

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Andrew Troup

That's a nifty arrangement with the hidden leech and luff lines. Proprietary to Schattauer?

Note that this keeps all control lines under the UV protection full length, to prevent UV damage. Those guys are really sharp.

[Saltyhog]

Originally Posted by minaret

I gotta say, the whole point of this thread is to help amateurs achieve pro results. With modern materials, this is fairly easy to do. Check the Compass 47 refit thread, they brushed gel in the slip and got a finish on their deck. Awlcraft is an excellent product, and very repairable. But it requires much more skill to do so, and more equipment. No Preval touch ups there. It is also much much thinner than gel, as is any other finish. This makes a huge difference when blending repairs. It's just much more forgiving. Less toxic too. Kiwigrip is eminently not repairable, at least not in a fashion that is acceptable to me. Griptex is very easy to repair. The ability to apply gel in sections with totally invisible blend lines is priceless, it can be a huge deal, especially on big jobs. If you decide to go gel, know that you can indeed do it. It ain't rocket science. Just chemistry. I guarantee you can achieve my results if you follow the steps I've laid out here.

Thanks! After reading everywhere (others on this forum, Don Casey, etc) that paint is easier than gel, I guess I never considered otherwise. I've not done anything with gel, so this will a new learning experience for me. In the end, for me the list of priorities (in order) for the deck is that it: 1) put up with abuse, 2) is (relatively) easy to fix, and 3) looks reasonably good. Between me and our golden retriever, the deck is gonna get beat up. Just a fact of life. I need to be able to repair it. Sounds like gel and griptex are the way to go. Thanks for the links to the tools. Reasonable if you consider what a pro job would cost. Is an oil lubricated compressor ok to use for spraying gel? Also, the factory non-skid is this sort of mottled random pocked looking surface in the gel. I don't know if the non-skid pattern was part of the mold, although it does not look like it was applied either as it does not seem proud of the surrounding gutter surfaces. In any event, the non-skid surfaces are also painted with what looks like a heavy dull paint (from the factory). I'm guessing I'll need to remove the paint somehow. Questions: 1) What would be the best/easiest way to get the paint off this mottled and pocked surface and prep the surface for Griptex? 2) Would Griptex work well on this type of surface. I would think it would since the pocks and random dimples would simply provide more overall profile.

[Warby12]

Minaret, thanks again for posting all of this! I still haven't done the holding tank I pestered you for advice about but the new Lou made it on board over the weekend, getting there!
I love the deck work. Our deck needs redoing but it's a long way off and I don't want to start until I know I can achieve 60% of pro job. first the holding tank and a couple of locker lids need doing before BIG jobs. Thanks again! I really appreciate your trouble in posting and doing the work of course

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Saltyhog

Thanks! After reading everywhere (others on this forum, Don Casey, etc) that paint is easier than gel, I guess I never considered otherwise. I've not done anything with gel, so this will a new learning experience for me. In the end, for me the list of priorities (in order) for the deck is that it: 1) put up with abuse, 2) is (relatively) easy to fix, and 3) looks reasonably good. Between me and our golden retriever, the deck is gonna get beat up. Just a fact of life. I need to be able to repair it. Sounds like gel and griptex are the way to go. Thanks for the links to the tools. Reasonable if you consider what a pro job would cost. Is an oil lubricated compressor ok to use for spraying gel? Also, the factory non-skid is this sort of mottled random pocked looking surface in the gel. I don't know if the non-skid pattern was part of the mold, although it does not look like it was applied either as it does not seem proud of the surrounding gutter surfaces. In any event, the non-skid surfaces are also painted with what looks like a heavy dull paint (from the factory). I'm guessing I'll need to remove the paint somehow. Questions: 1) What would be the best/easiest way to get the paint off this mottled and pocked surface and prep the surface for Griptex? 2) Would Griptex work well on this type of surface. I would think it would since the pocks and random dimples would simply provide more overall profile.

Same reasons I went with gel. And I repair a LOT of gel and paint. Oil compressor is OK if you have a good separator and also use a secondary disposable on the gun. You probably have molded in, and it's probably gel unless someone painted it. If you really want ease of repair I'd consider ways to make it flat before Griptexing it. If it's molded (in relief), it's a pain. Post a pic and I'll let you know what I think.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Warby12

Minaret, thanks again for posting all of this! I still haven't done the holding tank I pestered you for advice about but the new Lou made it on board over the weekend, getting there!
I love the deck work. Our deck needs redoing but it's a long way off and I don't want to start until I know I can achieve 60% of pro job. first the holding tank and a couple of locker lids need doing before BIG jobs. Thanks again! I really appreciate your trouble in posting and doing the work of course

Baby steps is smart. Anytime, and thanks!

[minaret]

Pilothouse roof. It had molded diamond skid with a layout I didn't love. I ground it off and started over. Also epoxy sealed the teak brow and dash trim, 545 primed it, and prepped for paint.

[minaret]

Gelcoat laid out and shot. Once again I am only laying out on the first shoot to save color matched material. Dry guide coat being applied.

[minaret]

Gelcoat is polished. Also you can see our custom exhaust attachment for the hydronic system in the boat to run in the shed without killing us. Warm decks=dry gelcoat. The close up shows what 800 scratches look like when you sand over them with 1000, if they have been dry guide coated. This allows you to sand exactly enough and no more at each grit stage, reducing the likelihood of burn through.

[weavis]

Lot of work my man.

Respect.

[minaret]

Non skid is laid out and applied in Whisper Grey Awlgrip.

[Exile]

Minaret -- I must have missed something (again!), but are you using gelcoat and Awlgrip for your new deck? That is, Awlgrip for the nonskid areas and gel for the rest? Sorry if I lost track of the process here . . . .

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Exile

Minaret -- I must have missed something (again!), but are you using gelcoat and Awlgrip for your new deck? That is, Awlgrip for the nonskid areas and gel for the rest? Sorry if I lost track of the process here . . . .

Yes indeed.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by weavis

Lot of work my man.

Respect.

Likewise, Doc.

[Exile]

Originally Posted by minaret

Yes indeed.

Is the Awlgrip for the nonskid because gel is too much of a PITA to apply with nonskid material, e.g. Griptex or molds, and the nonskid will more easily hide any subsequent damage? Likewise, is the gel for the smooth sections because it is so much easier to repair?

I obviously must have skipped out on a few previous lessons here . . . .

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Exile

Is the Awlgrip for the nonskid because gel is too much of a PITA to apply with nonskid material, e.g. Griptex or molds, and the nonskid will more easily hide any subsequent damage? Likewise, is the gel for the smooth sections because it is so much easier to repair?

I obviously must have skipped out on a few previous lessons here . . . .

Basically, yes. Awlgrip/Griptex is easy to repair, if done properly. Also easy to maintain, easy to apply, durable, attractive, etc etc.