Originally Posted by hgd137
I have just ran across your thread and have read the whole thing. You have done an excellent job not only on your boat but on your very clear tutorials and tips. Thank you.
I have been waiting patiently to see what you are going to use for your nonskid. One of these days I am going to bite the bullet about what to do with my teak decks. On my cockpit
gunnels I have removed teak pads and replaced them with FG. I replicated the diamond pattern on the cabin
top using gel coat with what I think you called fleximold. I then painted it with Awlgrip. It turned out pretty good and was thinking of replacing the teak decks using this technique but it is a very tedious process. I am curious to see what you are going to do.
If you are looking for entertainment check out Passport 40 – S/V Grendel | Passport 40 – Sailing Vessel Grendel
. You can also see my first and only attempt at FG construction of a solid dodger
Thanks. Decks are Griptex. Just did a full Flexmold job, really meant to take pics but totally failed. In a nutshell, here is my technique; as usual developed after many years of frustration and difficulty, blood, sweat and tears (literally).
If you follow Flexmold specs you will often find yourself in a disastrous situation, particularly if attempting large pads on a deck
with lots of camber. If you reduce to their recommended Zahn cup readings it just gets worse. After a great many attempts at doing both repairs
and full new decks with flexmold, I finally talked the boss into trying it my way. My way works great, unlike Flexmold's way. It has now been the chosen method for us for many years, 100% success rate with no failures.
Basically, acquire a roll of Flexmold in the desired skid pattern. Build a strongback and flat stock table. Apply the Flexmold roll to the flat stock table using thinly applied contact cement and lots of pressure on a big J roller, without distorting the pattern. Apply liquid mold
release wax and buff out several times. Spray heavily with color matched gel until the skid pattern is almost totally full (this prevents the tops of the diamonds wearing off to bare resin). Laminate with one matt and one boat cloth, either six or ten ounce depending on the height of the desired skid pad. This gives a pad thickness of around 1/16th. Occasionally I add a layer for boats with high skid pads. Release the part-carefully. A full sheet is delicate. Get the deck
fair and in primer. Sand for prep. Lay out your desired skid pads in pencil. Build doorskin patterns very precisely for each skid pad. Hot glue a series of very small plywood
blocks around the edge of each skid pad layout. These are to prevent the pad from moving out of it's desired spot. Use the minimum number of blocks required, as each one will be a repair. Use the patterns to carefully cut (using carbide abrasives to prevent blowout) and sand the sheets
non skid material into the shape of each skid pad. Make sure to grind the back side of the whole sheet for prep first. Be very painstaking and make each piece perfect, dead on the lines. Dry fit. Your piece should fit in place inside the blocks with no wobble. Adjust blocks as needed. Once fit is perfect, vacuum bad each panel in place, using color matched gelcoat
as the adhesive
. Fully mask the top of each skid pad, or the bag will suck excess gel into the skid pattern. Mask the deck around the pad 1/8" back to allow the squeezeout to bond. If you do it just right, and pull the bag for cleanup as soon as it's gelled, all you have to do is wet sand and buff the squeezeout line and make a gelcoat
repair where each block was. This technique works most excellently, and is the only way to do a really pro match to a factory diamond pad. By which I mean one that is absolutely flawless. This is yet another trade
secret which some would be displeased with me for divulging. But dammit, I invented it, and I'll happily put it out there!