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Old 16-09-2009, 07:24   #1
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Mizzen Mast Leak - Endeavour 43

To all you Endeavour 43 owners out there. We have recently purchased a 1980 Endeavour 43 and there is a leak at the base of the mizzen mast. When it rains water comes out of the access hole for the wiring that runs up the mast. I have already gone up and resealed the holes for the Vhf antennas. And I have sealed everything else at the base of the mast. So have any of you had this problem? And if so, what did you do to fix it? Thanks
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Old 17-09-2009, 00:03   #2
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Starwise,

Not sure if an Endeavour owner chimes in but if you give me some extra information I can help... Are your masts deck stepped or keel stepped? I guess keel stepped. In that case, do you have drain holes above deck? they might be plugged with debris.

Also, do the cables run through a duct inside the mast?

cheers,
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Old 17-09-2009, 00:58   #3
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My endeavour 40 has a fair amount of water that comes down the mast in a rain. Not sure where it comes from. It drains into the bilge.
My guess is your main mast also has this.
Maybe endeavours way of catching rain to fill the tanks?
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Old 17-09-2009, 03:59   #4
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The mizzen is deck stepped and I have no idea if the wires run in a conduit. Water does run down the main mast into the bilge. I have to admit that this is my first experience with owning a ketch. I'm beginning to think that some drain holes were either not installed or blocked by a previous owner. I'll try to post some photos later today.
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Old 17-09-2009, 10:35   #5
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Okay, we are a ketch with both masts keel-stepped. It is very important that any water coming down inside the mast has a way out at the lowest point of the mast. I had to make a drain because virtually everyone forgets to make that.
Without the drain there will be standing water in the mast up to the level where it can come out, like the hole for the cables. This standing water will lead to severe corrosion trouble so a low drain must be available.

It is impossible to prevent water coming down the mast. Rain water will get in where the halyards enter the mast etc. So the way to deal with it is to provide drains.

We have a water-lock just above deck level. Basically, a small section is foamed closed with some drain holes at the top of the foam. The wiring is the problem. We have a conduit which stops a couple of inches above the foam and the conduit that runs down the rest of the way is to the side of that and starts higher above the foam so that the wiring comes down and out, bends up and to the side, before going down again the rest of the way. Any water coming down through the conduit is stopped that way and drained above deck level just like water coming down through other sections of the mast. There is an inspection lid in the mast just above the foam that's needed for pulling cables. This was made by ForeSpar, the builder of the masts and I think it's very difficult to make this for a mast that doesn't have it yet.

cheers,
Nick.
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:35   #6
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Actually, the Endeavour 43's used a different method than any of the other Endeavours as it was a stand alone design by Bob Johnson (Island Packet). The E43's mizzen is deck stepped on a "pedestal" without a mast boot, that's supported below deck. Leaks come from 2 places; one is around the base of the mast and starts to leak when the original 5200 dries out and cracks (replace with Sika); the other is at the spreader connectors, where you have to make sure the rubber gaskets and washers are in the right order. Most are not, so get a rigger to check it out if you're not sure.
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Old 30-12-2010, 19:26   #7
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Yep, I've got a leak that comes into the aft stateroom of my Endeavor 43 just above the dressing table on the starboard side. I'm going to check out the bottom of the mast and the spreaders too. Are there holes on the top of the mast to let water in?

Thanks for all the information. It all helps. Glad I found this post. Just stumbled upon it.

Anyone can contact me about this at: CaptPaul@FantaSeaSailing.com.
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Old 30-12-2010, 20:12   #8
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Leak

My guess is that it's not coming down the mizzen. Water from the mizzen on the E43 usuall runs forward as the deckspace as here the deck is doubled up, leaving room for wiring etc. (meaning both halfs of the deck would have to be cracked or damaged for water to make it inside the boat) creating a channel for the water to run forward. On the E43 the mizzen is deck stepped the leak is easily visible if leaking at the base post support through the wiring inspection port at the base of the mast. My guess it's the bright work that dresses the cockpit combing that's leaking. This is a common problem; one that varnishing alone doesn't address as the brightwork is set in adhesive that breaks down with time. Either reset the brightwork, clear epoxy it or paint it with epoxy paint. To check, cover the brightwork with tarp or something waterproof then use the hose for extended period then wait. Or one can do a cabin pressure test with soap to find the exact source of the leak.
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Old 30-12-2010, 23:29   #9
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Thanks Seahunter... I'll do the test and see if that's it. I've sealed up the mast everywhere I can. I'm going to caulk the engine intake and output vents on the back of the combing and then re-do the hatch over the aft stateroom.

It's been a pesky leak and I took the paneling off the starboard side above the bed and dressing table to see if I could see what I could see and I didn't even find a trail, but that's where it's coming from.

I want to find the leak, fix it and then replace the old wood that has been decayed.

Thanks again and I'll let you know if I find something.
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Old 10-01-2011, 05:41   #10
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your leak

I have had the entire ceiling down on my endeavour and the probable entry of the water is the
1. The mizzen track. This has 8 or 9 bolts that will leak and the water will hit the top of the plywood and then run to the side of the boat and exit above the dressing table.

2. The storage pockets in the cockpit with the water doing the same as above.

The repair for both is to remove the pockets to gain access to the bolts and then reseal.
Also look around the chain plates
Good luck
Bruce
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Old 10-01-2011, 10:06   #11
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Sorry I missed that Bruce, I forgot you have the track in the original position, ours is relocated to the top of davits (for the same reason). This is the only issue I have on this style of boat. The toe-rail design suck, literally. This year I'm going to glass ours over and be done with those annoying minuscule leaks.
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Old 10-01-2011, 16:34   #12
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leaks

Seahunter
The leaks will not be stopped that way, you have to seal the thrubolts and the cap to hull seam. The way I got mine dry, was to remove the teak and seal every caprail and screw hole with epoxy until the caprail was totally sealed. Then you have to remove the trim and reseal the gap between the cap and the hull flange. This is a major source of leaks. Water will run off the edge of the teak and through the crack in the trim..then get on top of the hull flange working its way through the areas where the original sealant has separated. It will then show up as a leak on the interior, 10' from where it entered. Drive you nutts chasing it.
I made new teak caprails and only used about 6 to 8 screws per board to hold the teak in place while the sealant setup. I then predrilled the holes for the screws to hold the boards in place (#10x1 1/4) and used bostich 920... putting a huge blob over each screw hole and over the holes where the hardware attached. I then installed each piece of hardware (wetting up each bolt with sealant) while the sealant under the teak was still wet. The bolts for the hardware and stanchions are what really hold the teak in place...not the screws. With the exception of a small length in the forward rail section.
This is not a job for the faint hearted Bring a large trash can, rolls of paper towels and boxes of latex gloves.
Hope this helps
Bruce
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Old 10-01-2011, 17:52   #13
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Bruce, when I say I'm glassing them over; I'm stripping them right off: no wood. I'm going to use an aluminum rail instead. I've tried even your suggestion and it still leaks. Only after a week of rain though and not even in heavy water. I saw a boat with it done and it look good and NO leaks. All that's required is a Milwaukee saw and a few metal blades and it's done. Even the Island Packets are made the same way. There's one only a few slips away from us and they're always messing with the wood and leaks. I'm done with that nonsense. I'll show you pics when I'm done.
C
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Old 16-01-2011, 15:56   #14
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Can't wait to see your fix Seahunter. I really want the water on the outside of the boat and then I'll be done with it too.

Thanks and look forward to the DYI fix.
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Old 16-01-2011, 16:38   #15
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CaptPaul and SeaHunter
Do either of you know what the eye to eye measurement of the forstay is? The book says one thing and my math says another. I took a Hyde Stream stay off and in the shuffle I lost the length of the furler. I need to make the forstay before I set the mast, After the mast is up, I will adjust it to the proper setting and then remove for the installation of the Profurl.
Thanks for your help
Bruce
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