The leaks will not be stopped that way, you have to seal the thrubolts and the cap to hull
seam. The way I got mine dry, was to remove the teak
and seal every caprail and screw hole with epoxy until the caprail was totally sealed. Then you have to remove the trim and reseal the gap between the cap and the hull
flange. This is a major source of leaks. Water will run off the edge of the teak
and through the crack in the trim..then get on top of the hull flange working its way through the areas where the original sealant
has separated. It will then show up as a leak on the interior
, 10' from where it entered. Drive you nutts chasing it.
I made new teak caprails and only used about 6 to 8 screws per board to hold the teak in place while the sealant
setup. I then predrilled the holes for the screws to hold the boards in place (#10x1 1/4) and used bostich 920... putting a huge blob over each screw hole and over the holes where the hardware
attached. I then installed each piece of hardware
(wetting up each bolt with sealant) while the sealant under the teak was still wet. The bolts for the hardware and stanchions are what really hold the teak in place...not the screws. With the exception of a small length in the forward rail section.
This is not a job for the faint hearted
Bring a large trash can, rolls of paper towels and boxes of latex gloves.
Hope this helps