REALLY BEAUTIFUL WORK! Looks like you've: "been there, done that".
I just looked up G-10! I have done so much boat work, the way I've always done it, that I was unaware of this material. For applications where it might be hard to get, too expensive, or too what ever...
I have always made my own fiberglass/epoxy sheet. Then I can cut all sorts of pieces out of it. In this photo
, I needed a 1' X 8' X 3/8" thick "worm shoe" for the bottom of my Tri's minikeel. (An application where 10,000 pounds would sit on it) To make the sheet, I just get two wide "perfect" planks. The bottom one is suspended above my work table with a few crosswise 2X2s, then covered with thin sheet polyethelyne. Then I cut perhaps 15 or 20 pieces of my chosen glass fabric
, mat, or woven roving... a bit larger than the plank.
I lay down a piece of fabric
, and wet it out quickly, by just pouring the resin on the fabric, and rolling, or squeege it out VERY quickly. Then piece No.2 the same way, then the third piece, etc. My lay up was almost 5/8" thick, to be eventually squeezed down to 3/8" thick.
You can make it resin rich, and it goes REALLY fast! I use med. hardner, and can lay up all 20 pieces of glass in about 15 minutes!
Then I cover the glass layup
with another piece of thin polyethelyne sheet, and cover with the TOP plank. (BOTH PLANKS MUST BE VERY FLAT WITH NO BENDS OR TWISTS)
Now I use large "C clamps" every 8" or so, all the way around, and tighten them in opposing pairs, (like I was torqeing down the head
of an engine) Just snug them up first, then one more turn all the way around, then another round, repeat untill about 10 minutes of this, and you can't get them much tighter. NOW you have squeezed out perhaps 60% of the epoxy, and it is incredibly resin lean, like we want it.
The entire process takes about 45 minutes! Four or five hours later, remove the boards, peel off the polyethelyne sheets
, and you have a damn near perfect fiberglass sheet.
Another alternative... I have used sheet phonolic, AKA "Micarta", for such applications. It glues well, holds up to the UVs indefinetly, WITHOUT paint
, although it does take paint
well... and is even more crush proof than sheet fiberglass. This is the stuff that they used to make the cheeks for "blocks" out of.
Keep up the good work, Mark