Originally Posted by Chrisgo
Ahh, forgot about the mast. I do wonder if it would work though. Off shore, liferaft
gone, etc...would you be able to hang on to a mostly submerged boat, (assuming dropping a couple of tons of lead would make it float somewhat). Lots of ballast with the water inside
Assuming the boat has external bolted on ballast:
The bolts would need to be removed quickly, less than 30m, more like less than 10m, and do this while standing in rising water. The Ranger
26 I once helped replace bolts on had 8 or 10 3/4" bolts, so rate of removal
would be tough.
Once most of the bolts are removed the last 1, 2 or 3 are going to break or rip thru the fiberglass
they go thru.
Even if the bolts don't break the hull on the way out, all the bolt holes are open to the sea. Right side up they let more water in, up side down they let air out, the net result is the same the boat continues to sink.
I like the way you are thinking about this outside the box. Ditching the keel
during initial stages of an emergency
is a non-starter as far as I can see, but it made me think about later stages when water inflow has been stemmed if not stopped.
If you could stem the inflow then ditching the keel
might provide you with a place to stay if:
1. The boat has enough form stability to remain upright with mast removed and keel dumped. If all the anchor
chain and every bit of metal possible is placed in the keel sump before ditching the keel, and every bit of weight possible is removed from topsides, this may be possible.
2. Flopper stoppers and any other means possible are placed to maximize roll damping. Without the rig and keel AVS is going to go way down, as will roll moment of inertia so capsize
becomes a much more likely proposition.
My feeling is that if you get things stabilized enough put the effort into dropping the keel, the same effort would probably be enough to completely stanch the water ingress and pump some of it back out.
My intention with my next boat is to:
1. add blocks of foam in the ends of the boat where I don't want to put weight anyway,
2. to used small odd shaped pieces of foam to fill parts
of locker to make them more regular shaped, I fill all the little places that are hard to get storage
item into anyway. (if the bottom of a locker is not flat, I put a wedge of foam down to make it flat, for lockers under seats along the hull I use triangular pieces to fill the top outboard
corner that is very pointy and hard to get items into). By adding small bits of foam to 30, 40, 60, ...whatever number of lockers, I could add 10-30 cubic feet of foam with minimal impact on usable storage
3. Seal up the back of the boat under the cockpit
from the cabin
by fiberglassing all the bulkhead edges. There would be a couple of limberholes with valves normally left open so water could drain to bilge
as it should, but in the event of a holing these would be closed.
4. Seal up as many lockers as I can and put waterproof hatches for access. See photo
or go to this link: Bomar Access Hatches
Here is a link to someone that went down this route
: Atom Voyages | In Search of the Unsinkable Boat by James Baldwin