Long Term Power Tool Storage when Cruising

[UNCIVILIZED]

If you guys have a power tool (or twelve) that you just "have" to take with you on your cruise, and or in your travels while your boat's both your home & your workshop, how do you store your favorite Bosch's, Makita's, & DeWalt's etc. to protect their vital bits from moisture?

I know that some boats are wetter than others, belowdecks. And one doesn't always have the luxury of knowing such things in advance if you've got say, a working delivery to do.
So aside from Pelican Cases, what are your recipe's for keeping our beloved little electrical marvels up & running, in the marine environment?

Ditto on any maint. skeds & or tricks that you use to help keep'em alive, while surrounded by Neptune's Realm.

Thanks

[delmarrey]

WD-40 is a Mariners best friend. Exposure to salt water will kill them. Spray them down with WD-40 and put them in a thick plastic bag. My tool box, I open the lid and mist it real good once in awhile. The motor going to sit for a long while, mist it down. Anything that is magnetic is going to rust while off shore. So keep it sealed in plastic and WD-40.

If you need to wash off WD-40, Windex is the tool for that. Spray a paper towel with Windex and wipe it down. It may take a couple tries.

[goboatingnow]

I agree gallons of wd-40, the mariners best friend


dave

[Boracay]

I long ago gave up on buying expensive power tools. Basic consumer grade is fine for almost every application. After a couple of years use on a boat I could throw most away without significant financial loss.

As far as storage goes Boracay (44' steel) has turned out to be remarkably dry. All tools are in "useable" to excellent condition. Power tools have been stored under the settee in the middle of the boat.

The only power tool that I have that's been near salt water has been the wet and dry vacuum (Ozito). I did get the odd tingle from it so I'm now extra careful but my wife won't let me throw it away. However next time I get a tickle it's bye bye.

The only tool I have that is not double insulated is a small drill press and I won't be sorry to see it go either.

My opinion is that wrapping is a double edged sword. May keep some water off, but any that gets in is going to stay there. I don't wrap.

Do watch out for the odd drip.

[capt-couillon]

In the "zip-lock" after a quick shot of wd-40 and a wipe down. Before zipping up, add a "desiccant pack". I like the stack-on 10pack, (around 10 bucks) good sized, color indicator when saturated, re-usable if you bake-em out in a 200F oven for a few hours.

Good for long term stowage of moisture sensitive gear of any type. (Skip the wd-40 for Mama's regatta dress)

[Old Snipe]

Tupperware containers and desiccant. Sockets and ratchets are seem to be more vulnerable then most other tools, so give them a light rub down with a rag and your favorite fogging oil.

[sailorboy1]

reusable vacuum storage bags

[Coxswain]

WD-40 and maybe a few Hippo mildew preventing devices, they work wonders in a tool locker.

[minaret]

Try Boeshield instead of WD-40.



Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication

[Saltyhog]

I've had really good luck with TC-11 Spray some on a shop rag and wipe things down. Once I do that, stuff just seems to not rust. And I can't tell I've wiped them down, unlike some other products that seem to leave a waxy coating. For power tool, I like to put them in waterproof cases like Pelican or Nanuk. The Nanuk cases are very nice. Anything I keep in these cases I can store in the lazerette with no worries.

[Arthur Garfield]

In all storage cases or tool boxes I use a tub of dessicant.Storage/tool boxes are firstly "air tight".
Then I bake out the moisture when looking damp.


All the Best

[nimblemotors]

What do you guys think of using a small dorm fridge as a tool box?

[UNCIVILIZED]

Thanks for the tips guys. I've been a Boshield fan since like '91, it WORKS. As to the fridge idea, I'm not sold on it. Primarily as with fridges, even if they've been closed for a few days, if something in them is going bad I have no trouble noticing the odor. Without opening the fridge that is. So I am uncertain as to exactly how they're sealed. I know that they are, as there's a definite suction on the door when you go to open one, but I gather that there's a valve somewhere in the system, which is where my nose comes in.

Now if I were to take a solid cooler, like one of the steel ones, & put a stout permanent seal in place of the drain plug, that could be a winner. Some of them have pretty decent latches, & then all I'd have to add is 2 loops of nylon webbing with Fastex buckles, for solid, stay shut insurance... that could work.

[Cheechako]

Yep, WD 40 and a big Zip lok or plastic bag. Better than the zip lok maybe a big padded envelope (bubble wrap plastic type.) I've found Zip Lok fail their closure a lot.. so I took to using bags and just wrap the bag around it well. Never store in bilge. And be sure to run them occasionally. Not sure I would take any more than a sabre saw, 4" disc and corded drill though... along with the cordless drill of course! Pelican case if you can find the room.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by nimblemotors

What do you guys think of using a small dorm fridge as a tool box?

I used to use an old full size fridge with a light bulb in it to store all my opened welding rods, it worked, but I suspect the light bulb had a lot to do with it.