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Old 02-11-2015, 19:57   #16
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Re: Lofrans' windlass

For what it is worth, I have had a lot of experience using electric anchor windlasses (big and small) and my own is a Lofrans Titan, which still works flawlessly

Most of the problems I have inherited from previous captains, is when they had the practice of "powering out" the ground tackle, rather than de-clutching and allowing it to free flow out using gravity and small amount of brake to control speed

It puts a lot less stress on the internal gears.
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Old 03-11-2015, 07:31   #17
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Re: Lofrans' windlass

I called Imtra Corp, very helpful. They gave me kit numbers for rebuild / maintenance. Also suggested to look at voltage. Should be 12v or more at rest. Activate the switches and the voltage should not drop below 9.5v. Inspect the selinode and test the up and down voltages. Also take off the motor and inspect the brushes and general inspection. If after doing this, the windlass still does function, take the windlass off the boat and service. I shall start this weekend to find the cause and then post what I find.


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Old 03-11-2015, 09:00   #18
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Re: Lofrans' windlass

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Originally Posted by landonshaw View Post
I called Imtra Corp, very helpful. They gave me kit numbers for rebuild / maintenance. Also suggested to look at voltage. Should be 12v or more at rest. Activate the switches and the voltage should not drop below 9.5v. Inspect the selinode and test the up and down voltages. Also take off the motor and inspect the brushes and general inspection. If after doing this, the windlass still does function, take the windlass off the boat and service. I shall start this weekend to find the cause and then post what I find.


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Landonshaw is correct. It is generally not recommended to power "down" the anchor and chain. It isn't necessary either other than you don't have to do a little bit more as in operating the clutch to stop the chain when it is where you want it to be.

If the clutch is not tight, however, when you try to power it down (assuming you must have a down switch and solenoid which are required to even try) it may slip and the chain not go down even though the motor and internal drive gears would be turning. You never want to "ride the brake" by partially tightening the clutch cones either. You don't need that level of control since it really doesn't matter if you have a few more feet out either way. I used a piece of pipe to go on the cone nut, with the "stars", to make it easier to control the clutch.

Glad you contacted Imtra and got their advice though. But I doubt from what you are saying that it is voltage related - since it takes far more power to raise the anchor and chain than it does to lower it. Still sounds to me like it is an issue with the clutch (cones and gypsy and nut).
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Old 03-11-2015, 09:19   #19
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Re: Lofrans' windlass

[QUOTE=exMaggieDrum;1952869]Landonshaw is correct. It is generally not recommended to power "down" the anchor and chain.


In the case of the Lofrans vertical jobs, they tout how fast you can lower the chain. Something about dropping the anchor quickly so you can catch fish. The windlass actually runs at a faster speed going down.
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Old 03-11-2015, 09:36   #20
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Re: Lofrans' windlass

[QUOTE=Guy;1952894]
Quote:
Originally Posted by exMaggieDrum View Post
Landonshaw is correct. It is generally not recommended to power "down" the anchor and chain.


In the case of the Lofrans vertical jobs, they tout how fast you can lower the chain. Something about dropping the anchor quickly so you can catch fish. The windlass actually runs at a faster speed going down.
Next thing you know we will see "Anchor Derbies" to see how fast a boat can get its anchor on the bottom versus another boat. It might be hard to judge in 30' of water so it would have to be in 50'-70' so the differences could be measured. But I have to say that I have not had a vertical windlass so may not understand the issue. My horizontal windlasses could put out chain muy rapido (unless the clutch stuck). I actually can't see how the chain could go out any faster as it could be a blur after some chain added more weight.

Perhaps the Anchor Derby could have two classes: vertical and horizontal. But I jest. Thanks for putting that out since in implies that they are OK with that for their vertical windlasses. Must be added friction in making that right hand turn to the gypsy that a horizontal windlass does not have.
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Old 07-11-2015, 11:34   #21
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Re: Lofrans' windlass

In my case, the only way to drop the anchor currently is to remove the chain from the gypsy and hand over hand lower the chain. I normally will push the down button with my foot keeping both hands free. Currently with the chain in the gypsy, pushing the down button, I hear the motor / gears turning but the chain will not lower.


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Old 08-11-2015, 10:22   #22
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Re: Lofrans' windlass

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Originally Posted by landonshaw View Post
In my case, the only way to drop the anchor currently is to remove the chain from the gypsy and hand over hand lower the chain. I normally will push the down button with my foot keeping both hands free. Currently with the chain in the gypsy, pushing the down button, I hear the motor / gears turning but the chain will not lower.


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Normally all you need to do is to loosen the clutch cones and the windlass gypsy will free wheel from gravity of the chain/anchor. Depending on how the anchor sits on the roller you may have to give it a push. I certainly would not want to hand over hand a heavy anchor and chain more than a couple of feet. Sounds like a good way to get hurt. If the gypsy will not free wheel there is a problem that needs to be fixed. At least on a Lofrans horizontal windlass.
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Old 09-11-2015, 02:34   #23
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Re: Lofrans' windlass

Ordering maintenance kits today, Monday. Should have in a week. Pulling the windlass this coming weekend to service.


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Old 25-11-2015, 02:48   #24
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Re: Lofrans' windlass

Got the parts in. Pulled the windlass. It is toast. Took the windlass to an expert marine maintenance shop on the island and the agreed. Bought a new windlass on Monday. $$$. The footprint is very close to the old so only need to expand the holes slightly, epoxy the open fiberglass and drop in the new windlass. Sounds like an easy plan, I well see.
I will take the old one apart and report back what the problem turned out to be.
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