Originally Posted by trapoc
Adelie the inner for-stay sounds like a very good idea, i think a small bow pulpit and move the forward stay to the end of it. I could then use the original mounting point for the inner stay. I particularly care for roller furling
jibs,it seems like more parts
to fail whats your opinion ? as for the shrouds I believe this boat already has double shrouds. I plan on upgrading the wire size. Thanks again Charley
What I indicated in my previous post is that double lower shrouds would be a good idea. Most of the photos I could find for that model show single
upper and single
lower shrouds each side, with a few photos that were ambiguous. If you have single uppers and double lowers then you are doing fine. If you have 1 upper and 1 lower each side then now is the time to change that. Go look at cruising boats in your area, the vast majority of them will have double lowers, the few that don't are probably converted coastal boats or racers.
Double lowers do 2 things:
1) Redundant mast support
2) Improved support of the mast in the fore and aft direction.
By "particularly care for roller furling
jibs" I think you mean that you are concerned about their reliability
. I concur generally though they have improved in the last decade from what I can tell.
For a straight up sloop
, changing roller furling sails
in heavy weather
is an extreme pain. Consequently there is a big temptation to use the sail roller reefed past the point that is good for the sail or efficient for the sail and once you are past the point that you really have to change to a smaller jib
, it may not be possible to do so let alone safely. For this reason I would not have a roller furler
on a sloop
With a removable inner forestay the equation changes. The headsail can be roller furling
and the staysail can be hanked on. The head
sail pretty much becomes permanently set on the roller furler
. Once heavy weather sets in all the sail area adjustments are made by changing or reefing staysails which are hanked on. This is not to say that the head sail should be roller furling, just that the risks and hassles are significantly reduced if you choose to have it on the head stay.
Advantages of having an inner forestay:
1) Redundant mast support from the extra rigging
2) Potentially better balance under storm sails
3) Probably you can get away without a trysail
4) Fewer sails need to be stored below, probably just 2 a drifter for very light air and a storm staysail for very heavy weather.
5) Marginally easier changing of the hanked on staysail compared to changing a hanked on headsail. Much easier than changing a roller furling headsail.
6) Staysail can be made to self-tack like the main.
Harder to tack when the inner forestay is set.
have a pattern for a J-hook that you can cut out of bronze or stainless flatstock for the forestay deck attachment. The pattern has been on their website and it is in one of their books
I sounds like you are considering adding a bowsprit
. The boat is probably reasonably well balanced as is. If you add a bowsprit
you will be adding foresail area and will need to lengthen the boom to balance that. If you don't increase mainsail
area you will probably create leehelm which can be dangerous. Given that this is an IOR boat that has a relatively short boom to begin with there is room to lengthen the boom. Keep in mind that doing so will require replacement of the main.
Adding a bowsprit will probably not let you attach the inner forestay to the existing stem fitting, give the size of boat I would be surprised if the headstay moved more than 18" or so forward.
If you add a bowsprit the inner forestay should probably attach to the deck right at the tip of the v-berth. Adding a bulkhead here to resist the uplift would give you better separation between the headsail and staysail and would create a space that could be a chain locker.
If you don't add a bowsprit then the inner forestay should hit the deck a bit further back still, 4-8" say.