Let's revisit through hull installations

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

Now I'm gonna get rediculious .... Do they make ball valves with bronze balls? Or taperd cone valves to fit the adapter? I don't like plastic or disimilar metals ( the ball in the ball valves). The nice thing (in my mind) abouit the taperd cone is there's no nylon or what ever it is that creates the seal on the ball valve. And the cone is bronze to. I feel that the through hull screwed and permanently sealed into the backing plate which is epoxied into the hull with the through bolts screwed into that is pretty bullet proof. I'm thinking now the weak link is the actual ball and it's plastic gasket.

It is the plastic (actually ptfe) that seals the ball and means no maintenance as on your tapered cone valves. The balls in Groco valves are chrome plated brass.
There is a threaded connection for a zerk fitting for lubrication.
https://www.groco.net/products/valve.../inline-valves

[rbk]

Groco’s balls are brass and chromed to boot. I think that has more to do with a clean spherical surface to mate to the ptfe seals for a super clean seal. Either way at $50 cnd for a 1.25” replacement and simple screw off/screw on I still think it’s the best option.

[Eastward ho 24]

Any how back to reality. Your gonna tap the g10? I have never done this. Do you think drilling a hole and setting a bronze nut would be better and not to much trouble?

[Eastward ho 24]

And let me ask this question why the f!$#* would anyone use the thru bolts through the hole into the Seacock when you could do as you have described epoxying a backing plate to the hole and screwing from the Seacock or flange from the inside out into the backing plate?

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

Any how back to reality. Your gonna tap the g10? I have never done this. Do you think drilling a hole and setting a bronze nut would be better and not to much trouble?

Tapping for threads is not hard. Easier than installing a nut in place.

Or you could purchase the Groco backing blocks.

https://www.groco.net/products/valve...backing-blocks

[Eastward ho 24]

And I hear you on the ball in the valve brass still is sketchy to me for saltwater it's either bronze or 3/16 not brass.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

And let me ask this question why the f!$#* would anyone use the thru bolts through the hole into the Seacock when you could do as you have described epoxying a backing plate to the hole and screwing from the Seacock or flange from the inside out into the backing plate?

That is the way it has been traditionally done. Remember these products pre-date fiberglass backing blocks - and fiberglass boats. On a wooden boat it was and is the best solution. With a fiberglass boat there are more options as described on Mainesail's site and in previous posts.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

And I hear you on the ball in the valve brass still is sketchy to me for saltwater it's either bronze or 3/16 not brass.

Chromed brass. And 316 should not be used underwater.

I have not heard of any issue with the balls in quality valves - Groco or Apollo/Conbraco in my years around boats.

[Eastward ho 24]

I like grocco adapters too but I don't like that they are PVC and flexible.I think I'm going to go your route G10 drill a hole drop a bronze not in with some epoxy to hold it and then screw into that. my hands are like gorilla mitts and I always seem to cross thread or destroy anything plastic with threads. However I've never seen g10 threaded but I assume going around this reaching over that blindfolded in a moving boat I'll manage to ruin them threads too..

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

I like grocco adapters too but I don't like that they are PVC and flexible.I think I'm going to go your route G10 drill a hole drop a bronze not in with some epoxy to hold it and then screw into that. my hands are like gorilla mitts and I always seem to cross thread or destroy anything plastic with threads. However I've never seen g10 threaded but I assume going around this reaching over that blindfolded in a moving boat I'll manage to ruin them threads too..

I guess you have not had a Groco backing plate in your hand. They are not very flexible at all. Bit pricy though.

[alley]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

Now I'm gonna get rediculious .... Do they make ball valves with bronze balls? Or taperd cone valves to fit the adapter? I don't like plastic or disimilar metals ( the ball in the ball valves). The nice thing (in my mind) abouit the taperd cone is there's no nylon or what ever it is that creates the seal on the ball valve. And the cone is bronze to. I feel that the through hull screwed and permanently sealed into the backing plate which is epoxied into the hull with the through bolts screwed into that is pretty bullet proof. I'm thinking now the weak link is the actual ball and it's plastic gasket.

I'm told that Apollo ball valves have bronze balls. (Apollo Valves)

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by alley

I'm told that Apollo ball valves have bronze balls. (Apollo Valves)

Not anywhere as popular as the Groco valves. I sell both, as well as Forespar and TruDesign.

[Eastward ho 24]

Apollo has bronze balls?

[Eastward ho 24]

And ps what started as a specific question kind of turned into brainstorming and just general ideas out loud thank everybody for all the information and opinions.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

Apollo has bronze balls?

Chromed bronze - and steel handles that rust, Groco uses stainless for handles.