Less expensive products versus "marine grade".

[David M]

Originally Posted by Benny

Sikaflex is the way to go - BTW they make a construction adhesive/sealant which is virtually the same as the marine product at much less cost

Bennys quote is from a different thread. But it made me think, we really don't have a list of things which can be purchased much less cheaper for land use than for the high prices we pay for "marine grade" products.

Benny's example of Sikaflex meant for construction is an excellent example.

Does anyone have any more examples of where we can buy things for less versus paying West Marine, (or whatever boat store), prices?

[Joli]

We like Defender and for the life of me I can't understand why Groco is so pricey compared to Apollo? I am glad to see Groco has changed the hole pattern on their seacocks. The round hole pattern they used previously was a PIA.

[hugosalt]

Not a place but a product which is readily available...Coax Seal...is sticky rubber tape, that seals holes, can waterproof connections, durable, uv resistant and easy to remove after years. Been using it for years. Thanks to Sailorguy for bringing it up in another thread.

[GMac]

The term 'marine grade' is mostly just a marketing thing. In some cases there are genuine things that are build for living on a boat i.e more SS used, better glues, seals or whatever but we have many 'marine grade' items which are no different from 'land lubber grade' items.

Just because it's in a marine shop that doesn't also mean it's more expensive than the local hardware shop. Many things are more expensive in a marine store for the simple reason of volume. The hardware store buy 1000 and the marine shop buys 10 so more often than not the hardware store is getting a far better buy price. The opposite also applies.

[sneuman]

Of course for lights, fuses, etc., automotive stuff is just the same and much cheaper.

For water or fuel jugs, I have found my local farm store in Annapolis is about 75% cheaper than "marine" stores.

Any opinions of "landlubber grade" two-part epoxy, such as I can find in my local hardware store? It sure is a lot cheaper than West System!

[Alan Wheeler]

Any opinions of "landlubber grade" two-part epoxy

It depends on what it is. If it is five minute Araldite, forget it. Epoxy is not formulated to be "marine" and "????". It is formulated to have certain characteristics. Like setting time, viscosity, strength, etc etc. The "landlubber" kind is usually inferior because it is formulated to hold Mr's Jones handle on the lid of her kettle in 5 minutes or similar such story.

[rebel heart]

Batteries come to mind. Golf carts are cheaper, as are Interstate (or another quality brand) flooded lead acid batteries.

Joy dish soap.
Coleman / portable / 12v coolers.
Mineral Spirits instead of liquid parrafin for lamps.

"Marine Grade" is realistic sometimes, like in the marine vs. land of the airx wind generators.

[camaraderie]

Car Stereos...much cheaper than marine stereos and last just fine down below.

[Ex-Calif]

If you have a drop in stove consider this - We do little cooking and a single burner was all we needed. $35 with disposable fuel cans. Tons of people have them around here.

After looking at $300+ "marine" stoves it was a no brainer.

http://www.iwatani.com/

[sluissa]

Originally Posted by Ex-Calif

If you have a drop in stove consider this - We do little cooking and a single burner was all we needed. $35 with disposable fuel cans. Tons of people have them around here.

After looking at $300+ "marine" stoves it was a no brainer.

http://www.iwatani.com/

Seems like they're an eastern Asian thing. Several Japanese and Chinese restaurants around here serve certain dishes on these at the table. The only one i've had myself was, I believe, Sukiyaki at a Japanese restaurant. Very good, but a bit overpriced. (I think I almost paid for the stove.)

I've been very against propane on the boat, but I might consider that since my option right now is using gasoline, which isn't really much better, but I already need it on the boat for the outboard. Still, I'm considering just building a small wood fired stove out of a couple of old tin cans.

[ksmith]

Really good stuff.

I have had some luck with the local Home Depot. They have started carrying marine items. 5200 for 8.95 marine grade A/C wire by the roll.

[svHyLyte]

I had to replace the caulking holding the lenses in several of our Goiot deck hatches. The recommended caulking/sealing material from Goiot was almost $29.00 USD per tube! In the US the same type caulking material for glass window and door construction, made by GE, is $4.98 USD at Home Depot or Lowes!

Cheers,

s/v HyLyte

[Therapy]

Originally Posted by svHyLyte

I had to replace the caulking holding the lenses in several of our Goiot deck hatches. The recommended caulking/sealing material from Goiot was almost $29.00 USD per tube! In the US the same type caulking material for glass window and door construction, made by GE, is $4.98 USD at Home Depot or Lowes!

Cheers,

s/v HyLyte

I have no idea what type you bought but I bought the best GE caulk/sealant for a small job (sink) in the house and after curing it can easily be removed with a damp rag and very little pressure, ie; cleaning up.
Like I said, I have no idea about it but after asking several people they say that the GE stuff I used is the best out there now.
I will probably use 4200 or something next.

[svHyLyte]

See GE Sealants and Adhesives - Residential GE Silicone II* Window and Door If this will hold the edges of plate glass together in a hurricane, it will hold our little 9" x 12" and 20" x 20" port lenses in place.

Cheers,

s/v HyLyte

[seafox]

My mate needed a rigger for his first yacht. He has never owned a boat before and rang an industrial rigger by mistake. The rigger turned up and did an excellent job of removing and installing his new windex. Charge $45. While he was doing it the marine riggers were ringing returning his call and giving quotes. $145 to $160! I will be using the crane rigger man next time too