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Old 20-02-2008, 20:24   #16
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I've been very against propane on the boat, but I might consider that since my option right now is using gasoline, which isn't really much better, but I already need it on the boat for the outboard. Still, I'm considering just building a small wood fired stove out of a couple of old tin cans.
We aren't thrilled about propane either but there aren't many good alternatives. I make a few one pot dishes and it's really nice to have hot water for coffee and cocoa in the mornings.

We comfort ourselves in that we keep only 2 cans on board, a working can and a spare, we should be able to smell the stuff if it leaks and we ventilate the boat pretty well with a couple of big fans.

Speaking of fans, here's another Walmart item we like.

Pivoting Rechargeable 10" Smart Power Fan - Wal-Mart

I wired 2 of these into the boat buss, mounted them in the cabin sides (with zip ties) and they blow a ton of air. When the house bank is on the internal charger is charging the batteries. When the house bank is off the batteries run it fun for a few hours.

We have a friend who uses Personal Computer cooling fans but I have slept on his boat and they are dismal.

With the Target DVD players, they have changed the wife's entire perception of the boat.



Speaking of the DVD players - Here's the unit we bought - Got it on sale for $129, if I recall, which was a deal as it was the same price as the 7 inch pair. We mounted ine in the salon and one in the v-berth.

Audiovox 9" Twin DVD Dual TV - PVS72901 : Target

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Old 20-02-2008, 20:32   #17
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See GE Sealants and Adhesives - Residential GE Silicone II* Window and Door If this will hold the edges of plate glass together in a hurricane, it will hold our little 9" x 12" and 20" x 20" port lenses in place.

Cheers,

s/v HyLyte
Thanks for that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My tube was all "gold".

I will return and ask more Qs.
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Old 20-02-2008, 22:53   #18
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I have found SST and Brass door hardware (hinges, locks, bolts etc) at home hardware shops that have stood up very well to the marine environment. You have to ensure it is solid and no plated componentry.
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Old 21-02-2008, 02:26   #19
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fridge magnets are good to take shopping for that. If they stick to anything don't buy it.
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Old 21-02-2008, 04:17   #20
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Always thought Marine Grade was a bit of a sham, especially for 12V lights, so many available for the automotive market.
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Old 21-02-2008, 05:35   #21
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I generally use a little more care when assembling some pet-gizmo for the marine environment, but Iíve used JCWhitney and/or the local auto-parts store 12-volt electrical stuff for years Ė mind you, Iíve never done a transpac or some such, but Iíve never had it fail during use either, soÖ still, below the water-line I tend to use the marine name-brand (West, 5200, whateverÖ) stuff -- for the modest quantities required, Iím not inclined to experiment in those areas I canít keep an eye on Ė which I suppose means Iím still not a hundred percent confident; although I do tend to mimic what the watermen use when they share it, and they seldom shop in a yachty-store
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Old 21-02-2008, 08:08   #22
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Automotive LED work just fine...

I purchased some LED assemblies at Pep Boys and work fine at a fraction of the cost of the "marine grade ".
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Old 21-02-2008, 08:14   #23
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Still, I'm considering just building a small wood fired stove out of a couple of old tin cans.

Careful with that... you need to have tin cans made of cast iron or some other suitably thick (strong) metal. Why? You can't put out a fire once it's started. The stove needs to be up to task of taking the full heat.

Also, when planning out the stove, you will need a delicate balance between chimney cross sectional area and stove intake vents. You also need a damper in the chimney (close to the stove) and adjustable intake vents to control a wood fire.

Lastly, you will need a fireproof shielding between the stove and any flammable (fiberglass, wood, anything but metal and concrete) surface, if the stove is within 3' or so.

Just a few tips to be sure you're safe.
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Old 21-02-2008, 11:32   #24
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You have to be very careful of products designed for RV/campervan market. They are designed to be light weight and are usually too flimsy(light plastic) to stand up the the rigours of Marine use. A campervan doesn't have to withstand a wave dropping onto it.
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Old 24-02-2008, 17:39   #25
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Cut down on metal use in the boat and use cordage or make your own composite. saves a heap of ss. I like to give my electrical bits and pieces a good spray of penetrating oil to cut down on corrosion and use lanolin or fish oil on any metal, especially threads.
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Old 24-02-2008, 17:51   #26
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"Still, I'm considering just building a small wood fired stove out of a couple of old tin cans."

I had always toyed with the idea of using a big truck muffler hollowed out and a door cut with a Dremel tool for a mini-wood stove in a small shop I had. Sorta risky on a boat though...
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Old 24-02-2008, 19:45   #27
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Actually, My grill came from Lowes for (if I remember correctly) $92.00. I had to build my on brackets but they ended up better than the force ten or Magma brackets ...... Oh ya, the grill works great!

Here is a link to one that is identical except for the private label label on the front:

Stainless Steel Tabletop Gas Grill
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Old 24-02-2008, 23:19   #28
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A lot of it comes down to commonsense. Down below decks, where a level of protection from the elements is available, a more generic product/finish would be more than suitible. On deck, or where the item will be exposed, more care needs to be taken.

A few items I have used in my fitout project include:
- stainless steel hose clamps from Bunnings (hardware chain) at about a 50% saving over chandler
- Freshwater plumbing items, sinks, taps etc from the same hardware chain
- Raw water cooling hoses from either automotive or irrigation suppliers. Irrigation pipe/fittings are pressure rated and plastic, so no corrosion problems.
- Below decks have used nothing more than good quality enamel paints available from hardware
- Below decks have used laminates, timber veneers and other materials available through our regular suppliers.

With a little care and research, more "normal" products can be found to be more than suitible for use on your boat.

Fair winds

Steve
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Old 24-02-2008, 23:37   #29
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It depends on what it is. If it is five minute Araldite, forget it. Epoxy is not formulated to be "marine" and "????". It is formulated to have certain characteristics. Like setting time, viscosity, strength, etc etc. The "landlubber" kind is usually inferior because it is formulated to hold Mr's Jones handle on the lid of her kettle in 5 minutes or similar such story.
Ahh but explain oh one of wisdom (that a bit too sucky-uppy or just about right )

Back in the early 80's I built a yacht that was all with 5 min Araldite. Sure I didn't expect it to last forever as the lads were young and only interested in beer, girls and sailing, nothing else. Not to mention it was a full noise harbour screamers i.e build for pure speed with a sail area measuring 'just bloody silly big', wings and trapezes. 24ft by 12ft on deck and 4' 6" on waterline beam. Strip planked cedar she was. Called 'Disorderly Behaviour'

She's still sailing today and still very very quick.

Don't knock my 5 min Araldite, I think it's good and I'm now having a sudden burst of sweet nostalgia. Is that a 'Ohhhhh....' I hear from the crowd
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Old 25-02-2008, 03:11   #30
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According to
http://www.firequip.com.au/files/Tec...5%20Minute.pdf
Selleyís Araldite 5 Minute is
- Not recommended for long term immersion in water.
- Service life in applications to very smooth surfaces exposed to weather and extreme sunlight may be limited.
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