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Old 27-07-2009, 16:55   #16
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I don't think you need to fair both forward and after edges of your boards unless you make them a bit thicker. Just round the edges with a palm sander. My leeboards are about 7/8" so I shaped them like a foil. In your case you might want to stiffen them up a bit just so they aren't too bendy.

Sorry about your rig. Hope you can get that repaired quickly and back on the water.

This stuff is fun, isn't it?

Regards,
JohnL
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Old 27-07-2009, 18:16   #17
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You want a round edge or parabolic front edge and a sharp trailing edge
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Old 27-07-2009, 18:31   #18
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Location: South of St. Louis
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Yes, I am having a lot of fun, and doing it cheap close to home!

I called and priced the 10 foot aluminum yard. It is 60$ plus truck shipping because it is 10 foot. They recommend sleeving the original or replacing it with a 10 foot piece of 1/2 inch conduit instead. I have to drill some holes and I and going to fill all of the tubes with expanding foam to make them a little stiffer. It broke at the top hole for the halyard attachment point. I considered making an aluminum sleeve and then using the alumiweld sticks to basically braize in back together. Then using a slot in the sleeve to hold the halyard tied around the spar. There is evidence of several different bends having happened in the 6 inches or so on each side of the original attachment mounting holes. That is in medium wall 3/4 inch aluminum. The half inch galvanised is a bit heavier, and would not do if wet for long periods. Filled with the foam, the conduit will likely be a little bit stiffer, Since it broke at an attachment screw hole, I may use a sleeve on it to spread the stress up and down the spar a little bit. Luckily, the lathe is 30 feet away! The conduit was $1.39. The 3/4 size is $3.3x. Fixing it is pretty much just an annoyance at those prices!
Many things to work on. I will start another thread with my Snark questions, since we are getting away from the original topic!
Thanks for the feedback!
I put an 18 inch board across the top of the one leeboard to see if that fixes the dragging back problem. If it does, I will sharpen both edges and swap it side to side for the next test run. After the Saturday run with the Snark hull, I am positive that the little bass boat points up better than it does.
The rudder I am using on the little boat is off a Y-flyer hull. It is several times too large. I need to play to see how the boat does with a smaller rudder once I get everything else figured out.
Anyway, I am rambling again. Have a nice day!
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Old 27-07-2009, 19:03   #19
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The shaping stage has been put off again. While being towed in behind the boat, I got to stare at the rudder assembly up close and personal for a few minutes. I need to make up a new draw screw for the mill, and then I am thinking swinging boards built like the rudder clamped to the handle pipes with support brackets at the seam that they swing down into from the back. I have a full shop if I get off my duff and go use it! Pockets with a stop block left on each side should not be too hard to do and should not take too much time. Pretty much cut a well out of an aluminum block and then mill off part of the outside edge so the board mounted in it can swing. Figure the attachment clamps however the job calls for.
I am hoping that the leeboards I now have will get me that far. Luckily, it is only 7 miles to go do a test run!
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Old 27-07-2009, 20:23   #20
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That little boat you saw in the picture I sent was a Herreshoff dinghy for a 55' Marco Polo. I fit a Laser daggerboard. A cut down Rhodes 19 mast. A gaff cut Widgeon mainsail. A smaller jib. An Aquacat rudder and all the rest was my own design and fixings.

Really a lot of fun. I later changed the rig to a Flying Junior 14 and it really did scoot. Kept up to a lot of very much larger boats if it wasn't an overpowering breeze.

Good luck in your adventures.

Regards,

JohnL
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