Leaking chain locker

[edokarura]

I was getting water into the forward end of my V-berth of my Ericson 34 and after removing the boards that separate the berth from the the back end of the chain locker and the bow, I located what, I THINK, is the source of the leak.

The chain locker is actually a fiberglass box dropped into a hole in the deck and sealed up. The water is coming in through either the bedding between the two or the holes for the screws that hold the box in place, probably mostly the latter.

As usual, someone tried to fix the problem by slathering the topside end of it with silicone. (Silicone, I realize now, is the genesis of that old pirate expression, "AAaaargh!")

So, my questions:

1. It seems like the way to fix this is to remove the box and re-bed it. Any thoughts on this? For example, would it be better to glass it back into place? What sealant should I use? Should I just leave it in place and put another layer of sealant on top of it?

2. How do I remove that silicone slathered on it? Scraping ain't workin' very well. Are there any chemicals I could use?

3. How do I detach the box from the bedding compound which holds it in place? Cut it out? Use some sort of solvent?

Thanks!

[roverhi]

If you think it's the fasteners that are causing the leak, pull them and rebid with LifeCaulk or Butyl. Easiest way to solve your problem if it works.

Sillycone is a bitch to get off, scraping is the only way I've done it. Someone may be aware of a solvent that will work. Sillycone belongs in boobs not boats.

If you end up having to pull the whole anchor locker, it will be fun. You could drive chisels or other wedges into the seam and then waiting for a couple of hours and moving on to other areas. Polysulfide/Polyurethane caulks will yield to a steady pressure. Might try 'Debond'. It's supposed to work to get 5200 sealed parts separated. When I had to pull the cockpit sole on my old boat, used a scissors jack to keep pressure on it and it popped free after an hour or two.

[Lojanica]

Heat gun plus I like the jack idea if you can get one under it safely and Gently put steady upward pressure as you use the heat gun to loosen the caulk. Once you get a seam open you can run a piano wire under and gently saw back and forth. As the caulk loosens and the gap widens you'll eventually be able to get a blade under neath and gently work the entire edge free.


It can be a real chore.

If you do reinstall use 4200