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Old 04-08-2010, 22:24   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocean Girl View Post
Feral, a good rule of thumb is how it looks wet is how it will look varnished.

Bare teak rocks (says the varnish lady )
I went on and took the plunge - oiled my pieces (teak, that is) with Watco. It looks great - this is NOT a 27 foot piece of furniture! It will get dirty, wet, bumped, scratched, and otherwise abused, and I suspect this oil, applied twice a year, will keep the wood from rotting away. Chalk up a win for the good guys.

Thanks for the helpful replies!

John
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Old 04-08-2010, 23:36   #62
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If you can only sail on the few precious breaks from your busy life and can't/wouldn't afford to paid someone else to take care of it they varnishing and/or oiling your teak takes up a high percentage of your sailing time. But if you live on board then tending to your wood on days you wouldn't be sailing anyway is alot more likely to happen.
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Old 04-08-2010, 23:39   #63
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For the people that light the "silver look": there is a fine line between low maintenance and neglect and that crosses it. The main purpose of varnish and oil is as a preservative.
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Old 05-08-2010, 03:14   #64
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Had some teak on my last boat. Drove me nuts. If I had it again, I would go for the grey/silver look - a two pack epoxy primer. A couple of coats of that would keep the UV off for a good while.
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Old 05-08-2010, 05:32   #65
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Old 05-08-2010, 05:47   #66
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Take a look at this site

Teak Care

I have used SEMCO before,,,, makes the teak look nice,, put on with a small disposable paint brush
My experience with Semco (clear) was just the opposite. Wood prepared just per instructions. It looked horrid.
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Old 05-08-2010, 05:49   #67
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Had some teak on my last boat. Drove me nuts. If I had it again, I would go for the grey/silver look - a two pack epoxy primer. A couple of coats of that would keep the UV off for a good while.
I think the "teak is too much work" thing is overdone. Yes, it's way too much work when it's neglected (as mine was by a previous owner), but once you get it up to scratch (i.e., Bristol), it's not that hard to keep it that way. The alternative - the "grey look" - is not an alternative I could ever be happy with.
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Old 05-08-2010, 06:05   #68
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Grey look

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the "grey look" - is not an alternative I could ever be happy with.
I have been sporting the "grey look" for a number of years now, as evidenced by my profile photos. Ya just learn to be happy with it.

Oh, sorry, I thought we'd strayed off topic.

John
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Old 05-08-2010, 18:22   #69
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Do any if these oil treatments work with mahogany?
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Old 05-08-2010, 20:55   #70
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Do any if these oil treatments work with mahogany?
They are both (teak and mahogany) hard, tight grained woods with oils that resist water and rot. I'm thinking that treatments will have similar results.

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Old 05-08-2010, 23:16   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feral Cement View Post
I went on and took the plunge - oiled my pieces (teak, that is) with Watco. It looks great - this is NOT a 27 foot piece of furniture! It will get dirty, wet, bumped, scratched, and otherwise abused, and I suspect this oil, applied twice a year, will keep the wood from rotting away. Chalk up a win for the good guys.

Thanks for the helpful replies!

John

First let me apologize for this Varnish lady can'y help it.

Now that you have some watco on it. Keep it clean with murphy's oil soap, works well on fbg too. Please do not use a bristle brush but a flat scrubbing pad, even the soft white bristle brushes will dig out your grain....actually, this would be easier and I could save you the lecture if ya just promise never to use a bristle brush on your teak. Here, how about this:

I solemnly promise never to use a bristle brush on my beautiful teak, I will only use a sponge or a flat 3m scrub pad.

sign_________________

Just say no to bristles!!

Imagine being my neighbor
E
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Old 05-08-2010, 23:48   #72
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Lazy man's teak is leave it at a 220 sand and scrub it with sea water and a white scotch pad some times. Pretty simple.
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Old 06-08-2010, 06:18   #73
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Show me

Erika wrote:

I could save you the lecture if ya just promise never to use a bristle brush on your teak.

Erika -- I was hoping you'd stop by and SHOW me the proper technique.

Erika, again:

Imagine being my neighbor

Me, again --OK, I will! Nice boat, Erika! Really nice teak, too! Awesome swimsuit, girl!

I think I'm done, for now.

John
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:58   #74
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LOL iws too cold here fo rme to do my teak in bathing suit exhibition--i invest 6 hours every year to my teak--is not silver is not grey--is light brown with beautiful grain and protection from freshy warter.
as re:mahogqany--i posted in another forum th eix of a sampson post made of mahogany--the sneaky wood--it rots from inside to outside looking gorgeous until it breaks and you lose the boat. i donot like mahogany--is gorgeous wood but not for use in structural places on boat. it responds well to oils, yes--best to keep mahogany under closer watch for the rot that doesnt show....phillipine mahogany is same as pine wood--soft and useless.
if i had a choice between mahogany and ash, i would choose th ash, a stronger wood, and time proven in some of the antique ships whose hulls were planked of ashwood. mahogany boats end up on the bottom when a perfectly good looking plank fails. have seen way too much of that in my life.

as far as my teak--no sandpaper ever touches it -no bristle brushes--just a 3m pad and sea water. then after dry--oil the heck out of it. teak is an easy care wood--snotty yotties have over dramatized the care of teak as they havent a clue as to how to clean and care for it--is way too easy to do --has to be something difficult--so is!! no bleaches, no soaps, no sanding--is easy. i am surprised more folks , after seeing th true pricing of the wood, still sand it away and use bristles to make the wood disappear--will all have to be replaced at some time--at an even higher price......i spend 6 hours per year--unless i do the wood again in 6 months--then is 12 hours pr year on my teak and it is a beautiful wood color and beads fesh water from dew and from rain. no danger to gelcoat --safe for kids to use--non toxic and non carcinogenic, so far!! just a lil goo in the gulf areas..not expensive not in short supply--is hard to backorder sea water......
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Old 06-08-2010, 21:08   #75
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one of the options i was given was equal parts linseed oil, turpentine and pine tar (some people heat it up on an electric hot plate), works best on funky old wooden sailboats.
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