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Old 21-11-2009, 12:29   #31
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thanks good1734, that was what I was thinking too! but I am a bit rusty so wasn't sure if I was remembering that trick correctly. The principle is it removes the moisture from the varnish? He said it was a "white ring" so sounds like it is strictly moisture trapped in the varnish and not down to the wood. Epiphanes are notorious for being a bit sensitive to heat rings from coffee mugs. I would also add that to be sure your iron's steam settling is off.
Erika

ps - sorry if I have hijacked the thread, I just realized all this is way off topic.
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Old 21-11-2009, 12:37   #32
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Hijack cont'd-
OG- yes on the no-steam setting. That's why I mentioned "dry" rag and "hot/dry" iron.

I'm a furniture maker and have used this trick for years on repairs.

Give it a shot. Tell us if you have good luck.....
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Old 03-08-2010, 11:35   #33
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For a lazy man solution I use Teaqua. It's a water based application and it dries very quickly and is good to go in 24 hours. You just tape up the work, use a good brush to reduce dripping and apply it. For a good job it helps to get the wood clean first. I can do two coats by starting at one end and going along twice. Once taped up I can do the whole exterior with two coats in two hours. I need about 3 coats per year.
Paul,
I have been using Teaqua here in Annapolis and it's a nice product. My problem is that I let it go too long before re-treating (like a year or more). You mentioned the ease of applying two coats (I agree). My question is, when you say it "needs about 3 coats per year", do you mean three applications of two coats each or just the first two with a touchup coat after 6 months? Thanks.
-Bill
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:22   #34
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no such animal, except to do nothing and that will end up ruining the teak.

On our Cape Dory, lots of teak, I've used Cetol, Teaqua, and now Teak Guard.. Teak guard is my favorite...

I've come to hate any teak finish that is a coating, ie; varnish, yea right, Cetol, etc. They will fail and let moisture under. I will only use a product that goes INTO the teak, rather than ON the teak. such as oil, Teaqua, TeakGuard.. Teakguard has a beautiful golden color and simply fades away over time. Never turns black as there is no organic matter in it to feed the mold.
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:59   #35
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Oil is oil is oil?

If the only stupid question is the one you didn't ask.....

What would happen if one were to use a petroleum product - mineral oil, motor oil, kerosene, etc.? Seems to me that mold/mildew problems would go away, cheap and always available, definitely water-resistant.

I know, seems too obvious.

John
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Old 03-08-2010, 13:43   #36
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My joy in boating has nothing to do with fish or wood maintenance! 'Nothing wrong with casting and trolling,-'nothing wrong with sanding and varnishing and 'nothing wrong with using your teak brightwork as a template to replace these pieces with Starboard polymer.

This has been my no maintenance way to deal with teak and it's been functioning well on my "chlorox bottle" boat for fifteen years.
Take care and joy, Aythya crew
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Old 03-08-2010, 14:21   #37
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This is an idea I tried on pretty old and weathered teak.

Sand, clean with Teka, clean with acetone to remove as much oil as possible. Make it as porous as possible.

Treat with Smith’s System epoxy for restoring rotten timbers and such. Use the slow mix and keep sloping it on until such time as it starts to kick. It really absorbs a lot.

Shellac over this when cured.

Schooner over the shellac.

Looks pretty good. Looks like varnished teak, no funny tones or hues. I don’t know if it is any more durable than just varnish but I feel good about it. Over a year on it now and no bad side effects that I have seen.

Smith’s claims that paint sticks better to the cured epoxy than it does to untreated wood. I think this is true for paint, anyway. I have used a lot of it on interior structure work, using Smith’s as the last step before installing. It makes very light wood stronger and tougher and you save a lot of weight over the heavier hardwoods.

And no, I’m not talking décor, here, but stuff like the bulkhead and bracket that supports the holding tank.

Um saudade
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Old 03-08-2010, 15:00   #38
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Take a look at this site

Teak Care

I have used SEMCO before,,,, makes the teak look nice,, put on with a small disposable paint brush
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Old 03-08-2010, 15:35   #39
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Over a year ago I got tired of all the screwing about with the teak on my boat.

I had HomeDepot mix me up a can of Glidden Porch and Floor of a pleasing brown color and painted the cap rail with three coats.

It is still flawless after all this time sitting in the hot Texas sun and is unnoticable from more than 10ft.

I plan on doing the rest of the wood when it cools off some.

I know some of you think its a sin but I really hate varnish and varnishing.

All the workboats I've been on had painted wood and looked just fine.

Why not my sailboat which is based on an 1890s workboat?

Just since we are talking about it. Why does varnish come off wood in about 6-12 months but the few drips I got on the gelcoat 4-5yrs ago are still perfectly attached?...............m
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Old 03-08-2010, 16:05   #40
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If ya decide to paint the teak put a couple coats of varnish on the teak before the paint. This keeps the paint from staining/bleeding the teak. If you decide to go back to a "wood" look it is as easy as stripping the wood.
Erika
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Old 03-08-2010, 16:46   #41
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i have had very very successsful time making my dead looking teak come to sparkling life by washing it with sea water and a 3m -pad. no sanding. no bs--just sea water and a 3m pad--just like centuries ago--is easy, really inexpensive, and does excellent job of cleaning dirty teak. i find watco teakoil "works" for a year. as i dislike shiny boats and shiny woodwork, i usually use tung oil or regular teak oil without mineral spirits, but as i went gulf cruising last yr for a yr, i wanted a coating hat would stay--watco will last one year. i do my teak work every january. it gets easier each year. takes me an entire day. used to take 2 days to do 110 ft of caprail.

some few yrs back, it was popular to varnish the wood heavily then paint it so it didnt look like teakwood, therefore, money--the paint comes off easier with varnish placed prior.
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Old 03-08-2010, 16:53   #42
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Deks Olje??

Has anyone used this Scandanavian product?
Very easy 'wipe on' application. Use just the No1 for an oil finish and a few coats of No2 on top gives a varnish-like gloss.
I've never used it, but I've seen the finished product and it looks great.
Just a wipe on a couple of times a year and should last forever... so they say.
Any one with experience?
Vic
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Old 03-08-2010, 17:09   #43
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are you talking deks olje--is off market now--acted like epoxy --use the entire can--paint it on until wood is saturated and is like different material. wipe it on like instructions say=-you get a hardened surface. but , apparently is toxic, so is gone..oh well..was a good product. what do we use that is non toxic!!???
\
dont know if is still purchasable out of usa--was a good product.
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Old 03-08-2010, 21:07   #44
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Ever have wood handled butcher knives? The method used to stabilize the wood uses either epoxy or polyethylene glycol...place the wood in an airtight container and draw a vacuum on it...sucks the material into the wood, basically turns it into a plastic...
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Old 04-08-2010, 03:51   #45
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are you talking deks olje--is off market now--acted like epoxy --use the entire can--paint it on until wood is saturated and is like different material. wipe it on like instructions say=-you get a hardened surface. but , apparently is toxic, so is gone..oh well..was a good product. what do we use that is non toxic!!???
\
dont know if is still purchasable out of usa--was a good product.
Interesting. I had no idea. It's still available here in Australia. We're usually the first to dump good stuff if there is a question about it...

If there is even half a chance something might kill you it's gone.... unless there is huge tax revenue from it. Then somehow it's up to individual choice...eg tobacco products...
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