KiwiGrip aka 'Don't Slip'

[Catamount]

KiwiGrip anti-slip marine deck coating ... has been known and used in New Zealand as "Don't Slip" for over 15 years . . .

I guess it is now being marketed here in North America by "Pachena, LLC." (http://www.kiwigrip.com/).

Any of you from New Zealand (or anywhere else) have any experience with this stuff?

How does it's performance and durability compare or contrast with that of Durabak, UltraTuff, Treadmaster, Interdeck, etc.....?

Thanks,

[Alan Wheeler]

I know the product and have seen a felt samples. But I used another make bing a similar product. I think in a nutshell, they are darn near identical. So far my deck is in it's second season and is holding up very well indeed. I was skeptical at first and thought I may have to repaint on a seasonal basis. But so far it has remained very good. The main reason I went to this new acrylic "rubbery" sort of stuff was for it's ease of recoat and it's extreme flexability and yet very tough wear resistance. I hate sand or any of those additivs in paints. It looks ugly after a few years and catches dirt and is very hard and nasty to get off before recoat.
So I would recomend this Kiwigrip. I certainly have liked the stuff. I will try and find the exact name of the stuff I used so as you can compare.

[Catamount]

Alan, FWIW, this KiwiGrip stuff is apparently distributed in New Zealand by BM Pacific (Benjamin Moore?), if that helps ring any bells.

Regards,

[Alan Wheeler]

Bell rung on BM, but I haven't used any of their products yet. They sell a paint called Corolus (spell?) and I have wondered how good it is.

[Fishspearit]

I thought I would revive this old thread and see if anyone else out there has used Kiwi grip? I'm planning on using it soon on my deck and I'm looking for tips, experience, etc. Anti-skid Boat Decks from Pachena LLC - KiwiGrip anti-slip deck coating

[jackiepitts]

Altough we have never used Kiwi on our boat we did meet a world cruiser recently with a custom built aluminum boat that had it applied and absolutely raved about it (it looked great too).
If we ever pull the teak decks off our boat I would definately apply Kiwi.
Best,
Jackie

[knottybuoyz]

Originally Posted by Fishspearit

I thought I would revive this old thread and see if anyone else out there has used Kiwi grip? I'm planning on using it soon on my deck and I'm looking for tips, experience, etc. Anti-skid Boat Decks from Pachena LLC - KiwiGrip anti-slip deck coating

Fishspearit, if you follow this link it should drop you into the middle of a very long thread of a guy building an outboard and his approach to applying KiwiGrip.

Bateau2 - Builder Forums :: View topic - Cracker Larry's OD 18

Plenty of pics and dialogue on the best (well his approach) to applying the product. Hopefully this helps.

[Catamount]

Originally Posted by Fishspearit

I thought I would revive this old thread and see if anyone else out there has used Kiwi grip? I'm planning on using it soon on my deck and I'm looking for tips, experience, etc. Anti-skid Boat Decks from Pachena LLC - KiwiGrip anti-slip deck coating

Fishspear, I documented my application of Kiwi Grip here

http://members.acadia.net/catamount/...-10/index.html

So far, I have been very impressed with it. Good stuff!

[MidLandOne]

Catamount - It is a job I have coming up for myself in the next few years. Can you (or anyone else who has used it) describe what the finished coating is like with respect to hardness and elasticity as I have not found much help on that elsewhere?

The KiwiGrip site describes it as a "very hard acrylic polymer providing... ...elastic anti-skid surface". "Very hard" and "elastic" seemingly a contradiction in terms. Alan describes his alternative product as "rubbery" - is Kiwigrip similar in that?

How hard do you reckon it would be to prepare at the end of life for recoating. The KiwiGrip site talks about needing to grind it off (which is a problem I have now with an epoxied on composite sheet type).

Did you glaze it with polyurethane (as mentioned as a possibility in the material data sheet) or have any other knowledge of how it turns out if glazed?

Thanks

John

[Catamount]

Kiwi Grip is definitely NOT rubbery when cured, it IS a hard acrylic, but nonetheless does somehow seem to have at least some elasticity.

Supposedly if you are going to recoat with more Kiwi Grip, you shouldn't need to grind the old off, so long as you can get it clean. Similarly, you are supposed to be able to apply it over existing molded in non-skid (if you can get it clean). Still, if you wanted to take it off and get back to a smooth surface, you would have a fair bit of sanding to do (but I suspect probably no where near as much as taking off old treadmaster).

I did not glaze mine, and am not sure why anyone would want to.

Hope this helps,

Tim

(disclaimer: no connection to Kiwi Grip other than as a satisfied customer)

[MidLandOne]

Thanks for the prompt and useful feedback.

[Fishspearit]

thanks for the info. I can't wait until I finally get to the part where I'm applying the kiwi grip.

Originally Posted by Catamount

(but I suspect probably no where near as much as taking off old treadmaster).

I'm currently resembling this remark. One of the reasons I'm going with kiwi as well, I'm so sick of scraping treadmaster that I like the idea of just cleaning and repainting over the old Kiwi grip in the future.

[Jimske]

Originally Posted by knottybuoyz

Fishspearit, if you follow this link it should drop you into the middle of a very long thread of a guy building an outboard and his approach to applying KiwiGrip.

Bateau2 - Builder Forums :: View topic - Cracker Larry's OD 18

Plenty of pics and dialogue on the best (well his approach) to applying the product. Hopefully this helps.

Good tips and good job! Removing tape prior to coating dry is typical for painting schemes. The tape would have to be awfully strong to tear the coating. Even if it was it would be difficult not to peel part of the coating.

I like the idea of using a notched trowel to apply the coating prior to back rolling or "tipping." I work with a lot of paint, epoxy, and spray as well as various viscous compounds in my business. I put a sample of KiwiGrip on my boat to see how it layed out and how it will hold up. Seems VERY good so far.

What I don't particularly like is the "stipple" finish that the texture roller forms. If you look close at Larry's photos you can see that it leaves a sharp texture similar to a fine popcorn ceiling look. I prefer more of an "orange peel" finish. This would be more of a rounded texture and not so hard on the knees as well as easier to keep clean. I haven't figured out how to get this finish but will experiment.

Anyway, first thing to do I think is to experiment with different sized notched trowels (both widths and depths). Then use various texture rollers. There is a roller that is used for applying glue to wallpaper. It is a short 1/8" nap with a kind of fuzzy "crew cut" cover. Something like this may not pull so much and perhaps create a softer finish.

I hope to do some practicing over the winter and will report on any succes I may have. haha Unless of course I sell the tri and then I won't ahve to do it.

J

[blahman]

Hey all,

I have several cans of Kiwigrip Sand color, and have applied it to the majority of the inner surface of my fiberglass dinghy and cockpit sole. We have old treadmaster all over the boat, and are experimenting with things to see what we like.

I've worked with many different paints, including two parts, and this stuff is darned easy to apply. Just like it says - stir a bit, spread it out on your surface (working in small areas), trowl it around, then stipple with any texturing roller. Easy to make mostly even, though roller lines appear (and can't be tipped) if the material is too thick.

One problem I found with application is, because the material can develop lines, it has to be fairly thin. I applied it over uneven color, so this Sand colored Kiwigrip, when applied thin enough to get an even stipple, does show through. A second cote goes on and works fine, though that raises the costs of the coating enough to question it's value. This may different with the other colors.

The other problem I have is, as someone else pointed out, when applied with a texturing roller, it tends to be very prickly. The first few days of use is very uncomfortable, and the coating "sheds' a lot of the peaks. I still find it uncomfortable to kneel on, even after a few months (though no where near as bad as diamond treadmaster!!!) Also, being so sharp, it does catch dirt and I'm finding my cockpit sole looking consistently "dirty". Any bit of grime gets locked in. I'm having greater trouble getting it clean, too. Though I haven't tried, I imagine adding a bit of water and cabosil to the yogurt would help to round the peaks, but I haven't tried and probably won't.

I was very excited about Kiwigrip at first. Its easy of application was nice. However, while it seems to be wearing OK, it consistently looks dirty, and while the antiskid qualities are good, I do not think I would be happy having it in places where I would kneel or sit in shorts (or less) often.

In all, I feel there are better options available for non-skid. Though more work at first, I keep falling back to my proven friend - thickened, stippled gelcoat. Gives a wonderful, long lasting non-skid. I'm also considering using SeaDek foam all over. I really, REALLY like the insulating qualities of treadmaster. It is nice to not worry about the paint getting nicked and peeling...

Hope my comments help someone!

Cheers,
Aaron N.

[Jimske]

I don't like the rough stipple effect we get by using a texture roller or 3/4" nap roller. In using a Carpet roller I was able to get more of a sand finish feel. I think this will be fine for non-skid, easy to apply a second coat if need be. The following link shows how it looks on a hatch I just finished - very easy. J

Picasa Web Albums - JAMES - KiwiGrip



Apparently I still don't know how to embed a pic.