Keeping sanding paper on 5" orbital sanders?

[Kenomac]

The stick-on sand paper works much better, and you're pressing too hard. Let the weight of the sander do the work and use a lower grit if it's not removing the material fast enough.

I prefer the square type Makita where you cut the paper to size and clamp it on. I have one that's 40 years old and still going strong.

[softdown]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

The stick-on sand paper works much better, and you're pressing too hard. Let the weight of the sander do the work and use a lower grit if it's not removing the material fast enough.

I prefer the square type Makita where you cut the paper to size and clamp it on. I have one that's 40 years old and still going strong.

I have that Makita as well. Works well for sanding surfaces prior to painting or staining. I think orbital sanders with 40-80 grit paper are much better for removing paint.

The new disc absolutely fixed the problem with sandpaper flying off.

[softdown]

Turns out that paper still has a shorter life with the new disc. The new disc has a smaller center hole than the original disc. I was still able to attach it but the center bulges now. So the center wears out pretty fast. If one tries to use the outer region of the paper, it will fly off before long.

So the paper last maybe 3-4 times longer than it did. Should be ~ten times longer with the proper sized hole in the disc. So I ordered yet another disc and some much more expensive sandpaper.

Amazing how often simple things complicate themselves.

[belizesailor]

Spray adhesive. Learned this recently when a glass guy included a can in his bill of materials.

[Matt Johnson]

What brand of paper are you using? I've never had the issue you're having with the hook and loop discs coming off unless the pad was well worn. I still use a Porter Cable 7424 for most vacuum sanding jobs which is pretty inexpensive at $150, and I think it compares favorably to the $500 Festools used here in the yard.

Spray adhesive does work, but it gums up the hook and loop action of a good pad. I thought it was only used as a band-aid for a worn pad?

Matt

[Matt Johnson]

Also, what are you sanding? If ablative bottom paint, depending on the type, it can gum up in about 6 minutes of heavy sanding. Use a carbide blade scrapper for the first round to get most of the soft stuff off, and then sand after.

Matt

[softdown]

Originally Posted by funjohnson

Also, what are you sanding? If ablative bottom paint, depending on the type, it can gum up in about 6 minutes of heavy sanding. Use a carbide blade scrapper for the first round to get most of the soft stuff off, and then sand after.

Matt

That is a great question. The elderly previous owner can't recall more than "I'm sure it was compatible with the San Francisco Bay conditions." So...I know it is ok with saltwater. Aren't they all except for hard vinyls?

The paint is very old and I have likely removed well over 75% of it by now. I am giving the bottom three months to dry out so no hurry. Several sanding sheets/day. I work pretty aggressively....."like a Mexican" according to a previous neighbor.

The boat sat in a freshwater slip for eight years while hardly a finger was lifted. It is in good condition all things considered.

There are strong arguments against buying a project boat. One argument in their favor is the tremendous learning experience and "outdoor exercise". Ever the optimist.......

I bought this old boat for the learning experience prior to something pretty old in the 40' range.

The real problem with the present pad is the ~1/8" rise in the middle of the disc. Replacements on their way.

I still say the 5" orbital sander is pretty ideal for bottom work. Assuming good pad and paper of course.

The pads simply do not seem to last real long under hard usage.

[hellosailor]

softdown-
Some vendors (like my friends at 3M) make special "open coat" sandpaper that resists clogging. If that's your problem that is also the solution, some papers simply clog up faster than others.
Instead of arguing with your sander, take it to an auto body supplier and a hardware store. Ask one of the guys if they see anything wrong with what you are trying to do. Odds are they'll just tell you that you really need to keep changing the pads as they clog. Or as Matt said, use something else to do the bulk of the removal.
There are some "citrus" and "gel" strippers that will brush on, and if left covered with plastic for a few hours, they'll let you scrape many layers of paint off really easily. Could actually be cheaper than the big box of sanding pads.

[softdown]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

softdown-
Some vendors (like my friends at 3M) make special "open coat" sandpaper that resists clogging. If that's your problem that is also the solution, some papers simply clog up faster than others.
Instead of arguing with your sander, take it to an auto body supplier and a hardware store. Ask one of the guys if they see anything wrong with what you are trying to do. Odds are they'll just tell you that you really need to keep changing the pads as they clog. Or as Matt said, use something else to do the bulk of the removal.
There are some "citrus" and "gel" strippers that will brush on, and if left covered with plastic for a few hours, they'll let you scrape many layers of paint off really easily. Could actually be cheaper than the big box of sanding pads.

3M is a great name in sandpaper. I pounced on some without noticing the adhesive backs. I could not find 3M in 40 grit hook and loop. The 50 sheets that I bought are of high quality I believe.

Boating materials are usually pretty easy to find around boating communities. I happen to live in the boondocks of an alpine desert. No boating materials for over a 100 miles. Everything is done mail order here. Not going to drive for hours to find the local store has no 5" 8 hole hook and loop paper. Good place to dry out a bottom though.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by funjohnson

...
Spray adhesive does work, but it gums up the hook and loop action of a good pad. I thought it was only used as a band-aid for a worn pad?

Matt

Yes, it was used on a very well worn pad.

[softdown]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

The stick-on sand paper works much better, and you're pressing too hard. Let the weight of the sander do the work and use a lower grit if it's not removing the material fast enough.

I prefer the square type Makita where you cut the paper to size and clamp it on. I have one that's 40 years old and still going strong.

Thieves love to steal Makita tools. Mine is gone now. The Craftsman works surprisingly well.

Not as fast for material removal as an orbital sander but the square sanders do work surprisingly well. I just wouldn't use one if I sought to remove the last layer of paint.