Keel sump repair

[SemusMcgilicoty]

Marcus - Pretty to watch!


What are you using for plates under those nuts? I'm guessing the washers are temporary?

[SemusMcgilicoty]

Originally Posted by SemusMcgilicoty

Marcus - Pretty to watch!


What are you using for plates under those nuts? I'm guessing the washers are temporary?

Disregard... looked back --- saw the plates...

[JPA Cate]

Hi, Hooked,

Good on you, too, as well as minaret. It must not feel too good to see your retirement fund disappearing, but perhaps it can be re-topped off. Good luck with that.

You know, there's no UV where the repair is, so, with the cabin sole in place, it should be safe from that, so why not leave it as is. If you decide you want to sell this better than new boat, sometime, a knowledgeable purchaser would appreciate being able to see it. However, let minaret be your guide for that, there may well be a reason to flow-coat it or something of which I am unaware.

Good luck with all of it.

Ann

[minaret]

Ok, now that my end of this job has been finished for a few and I'm beginning to get caught up enough to have some breathing room, I will try to catch up on this thread. I'll start where I left off, even though a number of pics have been posted from later in the process.



Here is the G10 bulkhead cut, fit, and bonded in place. Totally overkill but why not. She'll be one stiff vessel for all time!

[minaret]

Prep for bulkhead tabbing. 5 ply lam. You can see the foaming of the grid liner ends. This is because the liner was already cut back 1" or so to allow for fitting of the replacement bulkhead. They had just glassed over the gap with a bunch of poly and matt all sagged in to the void. I foamed and faired the gap and glassed the crap out of it. This ties the grid liner into the bulkhead structurally, as it should be. You can also see where we cut the veneer off of the ply bulkhead and sanded the edge joint down till the second ply venner was showing, so not only the surface veneer is tied into the joint. Also, the ply bulkhead is fully captured between two heavy structural laminates on each side, so even if by some chance the bond totally failed it will still be trapped in place and transmitting load.

[minaret]

Bulkhead tabbed in place. Most heavily.

[minaret]

Keel installed as previously depicted, with perfect alignment, and prep for stub/ballast keel joint fairing. Usual BS work from previous workers including fairing compound on bottom paint, etc, etc. All ground off and properly prepped. Neat resin immediately rolled onto freshly prepped lead. Heavy 16 grit grind profile helps long term adhesion to lead as well.

[minaret]

Fairing in WEST w/407. One full sweep and two spot fills. Pretty damn fair out the gate, not much material required!

[minaret]

4 coats Interlux 2000e.

[minaret]

Bottom finished and now in red!

[minaret]

Interior in the water and bone dry. You can see the new blocking for the mast step. The mast step was previously installed in the lowest spot in the bilge and hence often immersed in bilge water. Bottom 3" of the mast was corroded substantially. So 3" of the mast was cut off and a 3" G10 block was installed in the bilge, bonded to the G10 bulkhead and sump tabbing. The step was installed on this, so no changes were required to the rigging, but the damage to the heel of the mast was removed and it was brought up out of the bilge water for the future. High and dry!

[minaret]

Mast stepped.

[Celestialsailor]

Fantastic job. What did you use to cut that 3/4" G-10?

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

Fantastic job. What did you use to cut that 3/4" G-10?

Circ saw and jig saw with abrasive blades. Mid range diamond blade for cutting brick in the circ saw ($75), Lenox carbide abrasive jig saw blades. Have to keep rate of feed super super low with jig saw blades in 3/4" or angle of cut will wander.

[Celestialsailor]

Must have taken you hours. I know G-10 can be an SOB and heats blades up. I have a machine shop and use carbide insert cutters with dish soap and water mixture.