I'm not a professional, just an amateur whose too dumb not to take on major projects and learn as I go. I've built a boat from a bare hull
, am rebuillding one, and beat the crap out of a couple. In building, rebuilding the boats, I've changed the position of bulkheads and furniture very occasionally. Found that sometimes, not always, could rip the fiberglass
tabbing off the hull by brute force flexing the plywood
panel. The tabbing didn't come away completely cleanly but much of it did. When I started torqueing the plywood
, expected the tabbing to break away from the plywood, not from the hull. Pleasantly surprized myself the first time I did it as I didn't want to have to cut and grind all that tabbing. Didn't always rip iaway mostly clean but much of it did come away from the hull.
I sailed the hell out of my first boat, a Columbia
26, here in Hawaii
. The boat was fairly thin skinned, would pound going to weather
and probably oil
canned. After one too many trips going to weather
across the Molokai Channel, the main bulkhead tabbing popped off the hull and left the plywood dangling. Hey, it was a '70s Columbia
and Columbia was not noted for rivaling Hinckley in construction quality. Maybe the factory FRP guy had a bad day. I'd laminated the bulkheads into the boats I'd built and they had been done properly, however. Polyester resin will stick to previously laminated resin but not nearly as well as Epoxy
. In this case, we're talking a lower keel
area that's likely to get severe abuse if the boat is actively sailed. For me, I'll stick with Epoxy.
As far as time involved, it would probably take me more than two days 'cause I'm just damn slow. Have done a couple of repairs
on a probably thicker hull than this and it only took me a day to laminate it up. These were smaller repairs
in area but not in thickness which is really the controlling factor, however.
I will grant you that naked matt is hard to work with. Don't remember ever doing it with polyester but have with epoxy. You want to apply the matt, wet it out and then quit messing with it, If you don't, the fiberglass
strands will lift
and slide around leaving you with a mess that you'll have to grind smooth, btdt. Laminating with a matt/roving facing mostly solves this problem. Forget about where I read about the binder problem with Epoxy but if untrue, someone is spreading misinformation. If true, really shouldn't be a problem unless you have some really old matt lying around. I did but didn't want to waste the time testing the binding with epoxy.
I tend to be a perfectionist and working on my own boats. I've had two boats that've tried to fall apart at sea, run aground and crunched a bit of coral
and sailed 5 figure miles in total. I like things done in a way that I know from best experience will hang together. From experience, it's a bit nerve racking when things go to **** too far offshore
to swim to the beach.
Just out of curiosity. If matt is not important in a laminate, why do they go to the trouble making the cloth/roving and matt composite material?? You can build up thickness fairly quikcly with woven roving. Trying to get substantial thickness using cloth takes a lot of laminates.
If you don't want to lose feel and flexibility of nitrile/latex gloves. put on 3-4 layers of these gloves. As they tear and/or get messed up, tear them off and keep working till you get down to the last layer. In most instances, you'll get the job done before running out of layers of glove.