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Old 05-12-2008, 08:53   #1
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Keel rebed

Hi,

I am planning to rebed a First 456 Keel and wonder if anybody has an idea of haw much bedding stuff (3M5200) I would need.
Regards,
Sotavento
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Old 05-12-2008, 09:04   #2
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A 10 Oz. Cartridge of “5200" should fill about 96 lineal feet of 1/8” seam, or 48 ft. of 1/4" seam.
See page 6 at:
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediaw...66SY6HCOrrrrQ-
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Old 07-12-2008, 17:50   #3
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First 456 rebed

Thanks GordMay,
The point is, I don`t think I will find a fair surface? so this estimate may be way out?. Here I would need some practical experience at the job. don`t you think so?.
Regards,
Sotavento.
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Old 07-12-2008, 18:00   #4
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See if your supplier will refund you for un-opened tubes and just buy way more then you need.
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Old 07-12-2008, 18:51   #5
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I had my keel re bedded a few weeks ago. The boat was raised from the keel by a travel lift and all old sealant was removed, Excess 5200 was applied and the excess was forced out when the keel bolts were re torqued to 380 ft lbs. I would not recommend being stingy with this critical area.
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Old 08-12-2008, 10:37   #6
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Hi captintommy,

I am planning to do the same. Lift the boat to separate the Keel, may be one foot, keeping the keel in place with two long bolts prviously inserted in place of two old bolts. In this way I hope to be able to clean, or reface both surfaces, and then put the selant and reset the keel.
If you have any experience you can share it will be welcomed.
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Sotavento
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Old 08-12-2008, 11:43   #7
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You're on the right track. Vitally important to get ALL the old sealant off BOTH surfaces. That's the only way you'll gt a good new bond. when lifting clear, leave yourself enough room to hget to both surfaces with a power grinder. You'll need one to get all the old sealant off and to resurface the entire areas to be mated. Slather a generous amount of 5200 on top of the keel and re-torque the bolts. Any excess will be squeezed out and can be removed before it sets with a putty knife. Better to have too much product on hand for the job than to not get enough sealant applied to ensure a complete seal between the two surfaces as the 5200 will be what will keep out water and fill any voids caused by surface irregilarities. Once it cures (about a week) it will become an integral part of the boat!
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Old 08-12-2008, 11:47   #8
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You are going to want to get higher than one foot. You will need great access to clean everything properly. Including the bottom of the boat. I did this with my mono, and found the keel no longer fit the bottom of the boat. I had to fill the bottom with epoxy. Wax the keel, and drop it in place, Remove, and then rebed the following day. If it is a tight fit it won't take much. As posted already buy what you can take back, and don't be stingy with the sealer.

It sounds to me like you are trying to save cost, and want to keep the boat in the sling while you rebed? Be prepared for the worst, and grateful for the least amount of problems found.
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Old 08-12-2008, 14:14   #9
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How do you get the keel loose from the bottom?

For those of you that have rebedded your keel:

How did you get the keel to come loose from the bottom if it was attached with 5200? Is the weight of the keel sufficient to tear loose the 5200 bond after you have loosened or removed the keel bolt nuts? Did you have any damage to the fiberglass bottom after the keel came loose?

I almost had to rebed the keel on my Catalina 27 a couple of years ago when one of the keel bolts started weeping. Instead I ended up reinforcing the bilge, replacing and retorquing the keel nuts, placing a wide bead of 5200 around the keel to hull joint, and then refairing the keel to the hull. I finished by glassing a 12" wide swath of fiberglass around the joint, faired everything in, and then applied epoxy primer and bottom paint. So far everything is holding just fine with no more leaks or seeps.

I've since wondered how much harder it would have been to drop the keel and rebed. It seems fairly straightforward if you can get the keel to seperate without damaging the bottom of your boat.

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Old 08-12-2008, 14:39   #10
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Old 08-12-2008, 16:55   #11
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donw s11
When my boat was raised the keel was held in place by only the 5200, much to my surprise. We used a razor knife to cut the 5200 between the hull and keel to prevent the 5200 from pulling the gel coat from the hull, a slow but necessary process. When the 5200 was separated, the keel was lowered about 5 inches the boat was blocked and all sealant was removed. The keel and hull were taped at the exterior surfaces to prevent a messy clean up from the excess 5200.
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Old 09-12-2008, 19:34   #12
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Thanks Capn,

I suspected that the 5200 might actually hold the keel on with all of that surface area, and that getting the keel loose might be a good deal of the battle. I just wanted to know so that I'd be prepared should I ever need to do the job ;-)
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Old 16-04-2009, 04:38   #13
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How did it go?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sotavento View Post
Hi,

I am planning to rebed a First 456 Keel and wonder if anybody has an idea of haw much bedding stuff (3M5200) I would need.
Regards,
Sotavento

I also have a First 456. Did you do the job? How did it go?
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Old 16-04-2009, 09:33   #14
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Hi Avazquez,

Yes I did the job just a couple of weeks back. I was prepared to separate the keel using 4 long studs I made, in order to keep the keel aligned and also I bought 20 tubes of 5200. But when I took out the 13 bolts (12 M30 plus 1 M20) every one was ok as regards to the thread (no rust) so I decided NOT to separate the Keel. The problem of separating the keel as few peoples mentioned in this forum is that it doesn’t come loose you have to cut the bedding. You can read an article on Cruising World of last month. It is a 38 (I think) but they describe the job. I put galvanized backing plates under each bolt, each plate bedded on epoxy resin. The tightening was a bit of a problem since you need a Big tork wrench. I could borrow one fortunately it was an excellent one (CAT) because when you tork at 450 Foot pounds you really want to trust your equipment. I have several photos of the job showing bolts prior to renewal and finished job. If you want I can send them.
Sotavento
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Old 16-04-2009, 11:57   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sotavento View Post
Hi Avazquez,

Yes I did the job just a couple of weeks back. I was prepared to separate the keel using 4 long studs I made, in order to keep the keel aligned and also I bought 20 tubes of 5200. But when I took out the 13 bolts (12 M30 plus 1 M20) every one was ok as regards to the thread (no rust) so I decided NOT to separate the Keel. The problem of separating the keel as few peoples mentioned in this forum is that it doesn’t come loose you have to cut the bedding. You can read an article on Cruising World of last month. It is a 38 (I think) but they describe the job. I put galvanized backing plates under each bolt, each plate bedded on epoxy resin. The tightening was a bit of a problem since you need a Big tork wrench. I could borrow one fortunately it was an excellent one (CAT) because when you tork at 450 Foot pounds you really want to trust your equipment. I have several photos of the job showing bolts prior to renewal and finished job. If you want I can send them.
Sotavento
Please do...I would love to see those.
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