I am not sure where you see I am insulting another member
, in any case it was not my intent. My wife tells me I am insane all the time... I was never offended by it... I had to be to marry her!
Anyway, looking at some of the other posts I think a basic summary can make things a little clearer,
Epoxy barier coats can be done by the owner (very time consuming and a labor intensive) But to me it is friendlier than using vinylester for a barier coat. When I say remove the gelcoat I am talking about mainly gel on polyester BUT I still see no reason to have gellcoat on the bottom of ANY boat that is in the water full time and has a bottom covered in bottom paint???? It makes no sense at all. It is the weakest link, weakest link, weakest link.
So without spending a lot of money, well compared to what a new house costs, and kissing your weekends away for a couple of months, if you have a polyester boat the best thing to do is remove the gellcoat, cover the "virgin" glass with a 8 oz finish cloth and epoxy (optional) and then do 4 to 6 layers of epoxy. On the last layer just rinse the blush off the epoxy and DO NOT SAND it before you apply the bottom paint. Sanding
the last layer increases the surface area of the last epoxy coat and will allow it to gain moisture faster than if you just leave it alone. So what if the bottom paint falls off over time, less of that nasty stuff to sand next time you haul out
The best thing to do for bottom paint over a barrier coat is apply a red tracer coat of hard bottom paint like trinidad (bonds to epoxy well) and then 3 coats of ablative. Next time you haul out you just powerwash off all the old ablative to the tracer coat and then paint more on... ZERO SANDING
and in and out, or should I say out and in, in 2-3 days!!! But this will cost you $1,000 to $2000 in paint alone for the first bottom job you do after the barrier coat on your average size boat (35 to 45 foot).
A good rule
of thumb is that if you havent put on at least a gallon of epoxy per foot (2 gallons for 45 footers and up) then you have a basic lightweight job that will last about 3 to 5 years. My method should give at least 10 years but I have never had any blisters or warranty work so at this point I am 100%... ask me again in 10 years.
As far as adding aluminum
to epoxy.. well I know what they say it is supposed to do but I dont really agree with it. I think your better off adding a little cabosil (colodial silica) than aluminum
. cabosil is used in concrete to reduce water needed for mixing and also results in a concrete that has a higher density.. and we all know how hard cabosil is to sand.
One other note, make sure you know what cabosil is... you have no idea how many people I have met that think microballoons are cabosil. WHATEVER YOU DO NEVER EVER NEVER EVER USE MICROBALOONS BELOW THE WATERLINE. Take this as word and dont listen to anyone who says different. Always do your hull repairs
below the waterline with cabosil/epoxy on your basic fiberglass
Trust me on this