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Old 07-01-2010, 14:39   #16
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Dang Exemp...Why the hostilities???..
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Old 07-01-2010, 14:57   #17
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Dang Exemp...Why the hostilities???..
Well, without agreeing that it's hostile, it certainly does read that way.
I guess 999 time out of 1000 I'd just pass it by. Today's the 1000th I guess.
To be sure, I really so wish the my command of the English language was such that I could be more eloquent. I'll work on that, I've got some time, 999 takes some time to get through.
I do apologize for the way it was written, but not the message.

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Old 08-01-2010, 01:11   #18
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Now on a steel boat...

Now on a steel boat everything is going to have to come off sooner (mostly sooner for me) or later so I use screws. Big, obvious 8g ss screws.

To avoid the Al Capone effect, I try to keep the spacing neat and regular...
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Old 08-01-2010, 08:02   #19
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Question about Bristol Finish: would you use the 2-part "Bristol Finish Traditional Amber Urethane" for interior or go with their "Classic Clear Water Based Urethane", which is recommended for interior use?

I've only seen people discuss the 2-part product.
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Old 08-01-2010, 08:44   #20
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I can only reccomend what I have used in the past and that is the two part. Have been using it on many projects both my own and for customers since the mid 90's. When the wood needs to be finished bright it is the only product I will choose. If applied correctly for an interior appliation it should last the life of the boat. My experince with water based products are they are not as durable as the two parts. I think Bristol makes an additive that will tone done the brightness to a more satin look should you like that look better. Personally for teak on interior teak I prefer the warmth of a hand rubbed tung oil.

Take a couple of the different finishes you are contemplating and apply to a very small area of the frames, let say a one inch patch and then pick what you like best.
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Old 08-01-2010, 08:59   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Extemporaneous View Post
What would be "crazy" would be to suffer trying to do this in a cramp awkward, 20 below temperature environment when you could be doing it in your shop at home.

It would be "crazy" nice of you to offer to go and finish his boat for him.
Considering it's in the 20's in NY and snowing I might just do that

Mmmmn, I guess what the scientists are saying about global warming staring another ice age is true if it's 20 below zero in Orlando Florida?
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Old 08-01-2010, 09:18   #22
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I can only reccomend what I have used in the past and that is the two part. Have been using it on many projects both my own and for customers since the mid 90's. When the wood needs to be finished bright it is the only product I will choose. If applied correctly for an interior appliation it should last the life of the boat. My experince with water based products are they are not as durable as the two parts. I think Bristol makes an additive that will tone done the brightness to a more satin look should you like that look better. Personally for teak on interior teak I prefer the warmth of a hand rubbed tung oil.

Take a couple of the different finishes you are contemplating and apply to a very small area of the frames, let say a one inch patch and then pick what you like best.
Chris,
A well written post.
Helpful.

Regards,
Extemp.
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Old 08-01-2010, 10:36   #23
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spelt real guud 2, Thanks Extemp!
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Old 23-02-2013, 11:28   #24
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Re: Interior Woodwork

Hi gang,

I have enjoyed reading this section on the louvered doors. Thanks. Now my question is probably for another posting but I'm going to ask here anyway. I have a 1979 Islander 32 with nice wood interior. Some cabinet doors are louvered and some are ratan inserts. I am looking for a source to get new interior louvered cabinet doors. Any suggestons are appreciated.

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Old 23-02-2013, 12:04   #25
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Re: Interior Woodwork

As for the dings, if they are not too deep you might try a trick that I use on rifle stocks. Wet a wash cloth and place it over the ding, then place a hot iron, i.e. as in for clothes on top of the wash cloth. The idea is that if you can introduce some steam into the wood it will cause the fibers of wood in the ding to expand and at least minimize the ding.

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