Cruisers Forum
 


Join CruisersForum Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 07-01-2010, 15:39   #16
Registered User
 
Stillraining's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Puget Sound
Boat: Irwin 41 CC Ketch
Posts: 2,876
Dang Exemp...Why the hostilities???..
__________________

__________________
"Go simple, go large!".

Relationships are everything to me...everything else in life is just a tool to enhance them.
Stillraining is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 15:57   #17
Registered User
 
Extemporaneous's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Canada
Boat: Corbin 39 Special Edition
Posts: 909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillraining View Post
Dang Exemp...Why the hostilities???..
Well, without agreeing that it's hostile, it certainly does read that way.
I guess 999 time out of 1000 I'd just pass it by. Today's the 1000th I guess.
To be sure, I really so wish the my command of the English language was such that I could be more eloquent. I'll work on that, I've got some time, 999 takes some time to get through.
I do apologize for the way it was written, but not the message.

Regards,
Extemp.
__________________

__________________
Extemporaneous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 02:11   #18
Moderator
 
Boracay's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Pelican Bay, Great Sandy National Park
Boat: Steel Roberts Offshore 44
Posts: 5,175
Images: 18
Now on a steel boat...

Now on a steel boat everything is going to have to come off sooner (mostly sooner for me) or later so I use screws. Big, obvious 8g ss screws.

To avoid the Al Capone effect, I try to keep the spacing neat and regular...
__________________
Rust never sleeps
Boracay Blog.
Boracay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 09:02   #19
Registered User
 
Beersmith's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Boat: 1975 Downeaster 38' Cutter
Posts: 341
Question about Bristol Finish: would you use the 2-part "Bristol Finish Traditional Amber Urethane" for interior or go with their "Classic Clear Water Based Urethane", which is recommended for interior use?

I've only seen people discuss the 2-part product.
__________________
Beersmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 09:44   #20
Registered User
 
cburger's Avatar

Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nyack, NY
Boat: Westsail 32
Posts: 1,547
Images: 1
I can only reccomend what I have used in the past and that is the two part. Have been using it on many projects both my own and for customers since the mid 90's. When the wood needs to be finished bright it is the only product I will choose. If applied correctly for an interior appliation it should last the life of the boat. My experince with water based products are they are not as durable as the two parts. I think Bristol makes an additive that will tone done the brightness to a more satin look should you like that look better. Personally for teak on interior teak I prefer the warmth of a hand rubbed tung oil.

Take a couple of the different finishes you are contemplating and apply to a very small area of the frames, let say a one inch patch and then pick what you like best.
__________________
cburger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 09:59   #21
Registered User
 
cburger's Avatar

Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nyack, NY
Boat: Westsail 32
Posts: 1,547
Images: 1
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Extemporaneous View Post
What would be "crazy" would be to suffer trying to do this in a cramp awkward, 20 below temperature environment when you could be doing it in your shop at home.

It would be "crazy" nice of you to offer to go and finish his boat for him.
Considering it's in the 20's in NY and snowing I might just do that

Mmmmn, I guess what the scientists are saying about global warming staring another ice age is true if it's 20 below zero in Orlando Florida?
__________________
cburger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 10:18   #22
Registered User
 
Extemporaneous's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Canada
Boat: Corbin 39 Special Edition
Posts: 909
Quote:
Originally Posted by cburger View Post
I can only reccomend what I have used in the past and that is the two part. Have been using it on many projects both my own and for customers since the mid 90's. When the wood needs to be finished bright it is the only product I will choose. If applied correctly for an interior appliation it should last the life of the boat. My experince with water based products are they are not as durable as the two parts. I think Bristol makes an additive that will tone done the brightness to a more satin look should you like that look better. Personally for teak on interior teak I prefer the warmth of a hand rubbed tung oil.

Take a couple of the different finishes you are contemplating and apply to a very small area of the frames, let say a one inch patch and then pick what you like best.
Chris,
A well written post.
Helpful.

Regards,
Extemp.
__________________
Extemporaneous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 11:36   #23
Registered User
 
cburger's Avatar

Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nyack, NY
Boat: Westsail 32
Posts: 1,547
Images: 1
spelt real guud 2, Thanks Extemp!
__________________
cburger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2013, 12:28   #24
Registered User

Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: traveling
Boat: Islander 32
Posts: 3
Re: Interior Woodwork

Hi gang,

I have enjoyed reading this section on the louvered doors. Thanks. Now my question is probably for another posting but I'm going to ask here anyway. I have a 1979 Islander 32 with nice wood interior. Some cabinet doors are louvered and some are ratan inserts. I am looking for a source to get new interior louvered cabinet doors. Any suggestons are appreciated.

Old buzzard
__________________
oldbuzzard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-02-2013, 13:04   #25
Moderator
 
cabo_sailor's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Tarpon Springs FL
Boat: Cabo Rico 38
Posts: 1,905
Re: Interior Woodwork

As for the dings, if they are not too deep you might try a trick that I use on rifle stocks. Wet a wash cloth and place it over the ding, then place a hot iron, i.e. as in for clothes on top of the wash cloth. The idea is that if you can introduce some steam into the wood it will cause the fibers of wood in the ding to expand and at least minimize the ding.

Rich
__________________

__________________
cabo_sailor is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
cabinets, interior, varnish, woodwork

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
I Suck at Woodwork unbusted67 Construction, Maintenance & Refit 31 29-08-2009 23:25
Interior Refit Extemporaneous Construction, Maintenance & Refit 3 25-05-2009 22:17
Interior refit Little Otter Construction, Maintenance & Refit 4 12-04-2009 01:58
Interior Woodwork Recommendation in Malaysia or Thailand ? Mata'irea Pacific & South China Sea 8 24-08-2008 02:40
Interior Crazing GordMay Construction, Maintenance & Refit 1 24-05-2004 06:29



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:09.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.