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Old 27-09-2007, 11:46   #1
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Interior Refinishing..

I am in the process of re-finishing my boat's interior. I have already sanded the whole kitchen. It all teak plywood bulkheads and trims. I want to apply it with a srayed on satin finish.

Can varnish be sprayed?
Is it better to just apply polyurethane?
Any suggestions???????????
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Old 27-09-2007, 13:48   #2
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IMHO just apply polyurethane
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Old 27-09-2007, 15:48   #3
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I wouldn't spray it. I would think you would have to tip out air bubbles. In which case, just brush it on anyway.
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Old 27-09-2007, 15:58   #4
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Spraying in the contained space of a cabin may mean you'll need to wear a bunny suit--or at least have an outside air supply. No matter what you use.

Personally I'd go with an oil finish (teak oil or something similar that doesn't grow crud) as it only needs an occasional wipe-down to keep it up, rather than respraying in the future.

A poly, even a water-based-poly, should be more durable and easier to apply than varnish. But a lot of them go on very nicely with just a sponge type applicator if you are going for a satin finish rather than heavy coats.
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Old 27-09-2007, 16:27   #5
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There's a Minwax poly product that is wipe on and very easy to use, does not build thick coats. I did a bulkhead with it and it seems to be fine, this was on teak and I didn't take a lot of pain to remove oil either. Only thing is their gloss is not as glossy as I wanted, but if you want satin anyway, well....
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Old 27-09-2007, 17:44   #6
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deks oil

I've been using deks oil, no worry about drops, runs and all it takes is a little more here or there when it looks dry.

-dennis
titusville, fl
'91 3200 gemini
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Old 27-09-2007, 18:34   #7
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I did my boat's interior last year with Minwax High Gloss spar polyurethane. I thinned the polyurethane about 25% with mineral spirits and applied 4 thin coats. The thinning process softens the high gloss to a satin, but has the high particle count of the high gloss.

I don't plan on doing this again

Dennis, I haven't seen your boat out there on the lagoon.... you must be working hard on her.
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Old 28-09-2007, 04:24   #8
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From the October issue of the “Good Old Boat” newsletter Good Old Boat Newsletter: October 2007

Specifically: “Baby, this boat's got soul (err, sole)!” ~ by Karen Larson
Good Old Boat Newsletter: October 2007

”... The Ultimate Sole High Gloss Finish flowed on like satin with very few of the hassles of varnish, self-leveled without between-coat sanding, and looked like, well, a million dollars ...”

The Ultimate Marine website: Welcome to Ultimate Marine Products, Inc
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Old 07-10-2007, 16:33   #9
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Don't sand the teak veneer too much!

We use 3 or 4 coats of Epiphanes gloss (thinned about 10%), waiting a day and sanding lightly between coats, followed by one of Epiphanes Satin--the satin is pretty easy to apply, but be sure it is stirred well.
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Old 07-10-2007, 23:19   #10
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Depending on the product you finally select for the new finish, you will need to ensure all the previous finish is removed; and yes be very careful if the teak is only a veneer, they are usually only 1mm thick.

The reason for making sure you completely remove the old finish is that it may prevent the new finish from bonding, could cause peeling, crazing, clouding or other surface imperfections due to incompatability between finishes.

If a soft satin finish is what you want, as others have suggested, an oiled finish may be the best overall solution. The oil is the least likely to have a problem with the old finish, and is the easiest of all finishes to touch up.

My company recently completed the fitout of a Boatshed where the entire inside was teak veneer on marine ply and an oiled finish specified. We used a Sikkens product that was easy to apply and gave a nice satin finish.

Fair winds

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Old 09-10-2007, 05:44   #11
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epoxy and varnish

I ended up appying three layers of west system epoxy with a final layer of Rubbed Effect Varnish with sanding in between. The result is fantastic. For the solid teak trim I applied four layers of epoxy then 400 grit, 600, 1000, 2000 and finished with rubbing compound and wax polish. It looks awesome.
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Old 18-11-2007, 14:17   #12
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Did you completely sand off the existing varnish before applying the West System Epoxy, or just lightly sand?
Sounds beautiful!
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Old 25-11-2007, 17:18   #13
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Did you completely sand off the existing varnish before applying the West System Epoxy, or just lightly sand?
Sounds beautiful!

I removed everything. Went all the way to the wood. I used paint remover and then sanded. Careful with the sanding. If it is venner you want to be extra careful.
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Old 25-11-2007, 19:14   #14
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I'm sure of few things in this life, but one is that I will NOT be sanding my interior down to bare wood..... I wish I had the time and patience, but that's another story!
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Old 31-12-2007, 13:10   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickm505 View Post
I did my boat's interior last year with Minwax High Gloss spar polyurethane. I thinned the polyurethane about 25% with mineral spirits and applied 4 thin coats. The thinning process softens the high gloss to a satin, but has the high particle count of the high gloss.

I don't plan on doing this again
How is the Minwax holding up? Did you use it on the sole? I looked at a can today and it said it was not recommended for use on floors.
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