OK I have the results.
I did not test the WD40 since it was posted while I was testing but I did try a soy oil
degreaser. It works great cleaning
up and engine
. No good for teak oil
I looked for two results:
1. turning the paper towel honey colored (a sign it's cutting the teak
2. Bare teak wood after 20 rubs and however long it takes to dry. The best product left the wood like it was just sent through a plainer.
Cabinet scraper/ice scraper. (the build-up was just not that thick)
odorless mineral spirits. Grime was unaffected (picked up some dirt)
I did find some pure gum turpentine. same result
Soy degreaser. Did nothing and never seamed to dry
Seawater. I tried fresh Wisconsin water
. It did pick up some oil.
Acetone. This flashes of super fast but even when I soaked the towel and held it in place prior to rubbing it just did not pick anything up.
TSP The paper towel immediately turned golden honey. It really cut the crud. However it did not leave the wood lumber
Borax Same result as TSP
So I think baking soda may work but I did not test it.
strip. It worked a little but very slow. It's really made for lifting coatings not dissolving them.
The winner MEK
Ranking strength of solvent. MEK is among the strongest and acetone among the weakest. Other solvents in the middle like Xylene and toluene may work but all require protection so I did not bother going up a ladder. Once the MEK dried (about a minute) it left the wood completely bare and looking like it just left the lumber
yard. I won't need to use a strong two part teak brightener. One part may be all I need.
USE TPS or Borax first to get the majority of the oil and gunk up. My guess it would take two or three passes on an old boat with lots of build-up.
Lots of rinsing of the rag. Then turn on the fan and make a final pass with MEK. I'm putting this on with a rag about 1 square foot at a time. At this rate the box fan is fine. I pushed air in did not pull air out. MEK vapors are heavier than air so I drilled a big hole in the bottom of the boat. Can never be too safe.
I'm not pretending to be a safety
expert but being around this stuff for a long time we were always concerned about exposure limits not explosive limits since you will pass out before you will blow yourself up. The real danger
is the fact that the vapors are heaver than air. The truly safe way to deal with MEK is to have an explosion proof fan sucking air out of the bilge
. I prefer to work up wind
with lots of air movement and forgo a respirator so I know if the vapors are building.
I'm heading back later today so I can follow-up with other ideas.