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Old 19-08-2005, 17:27   #16
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Geoff, not a problem. This is how I, too, sort things out. As we were designing the height of the galley we started out with the idea of a 38" finished product and then incorporated the design and all the building materials to that end. We are going to use ceramic tiles as well. Some folks poo hoo this down but we don't feel it will add a considerable amount of weight. We went to Home Depot and picked up enough square feet of tile to do the job (we didn't buy it, at this point, just picked it up to feel how much it would weigh) and found the weight would not be problematic. After all, this is going to be our home.
I am mulling over now whether or not to use Hardy Board. I am thinking of just coating the plywood sub base with several coats of epoxy and then installing the tiles on top of it. This would eliminate some weight. What are your thoughts as a sub base for your tiles?

The sink: Is a real nice double, was in the boat when I took out the galley. Our present kitchen sink is a single and 9 1/2" deep. Neither of us like the depth and the fact it is a single.

Cutting boards: I plan to make a cutting board to fit over the left side of the double sink, so it will be almost level with the lip of the sink. This way the waste can be pushed right into the right side for easy disposal to the garbage can. I'm toying with the idea of incorporating a hole in the counter top, close to the side of the sink with the cutting board, that the waste could be pushed into. Under this hole would be a container with a plastic bag in it for even easier disposal.
For my wife and I, the galley is probably one the most important parts of the boat. We are both gormet cooks so a lot of time and effort have gone into design and, of course, carrying out the plan.
We also have a cutting board that is 10" x 14" that is made out of, what appears to be marble, that is 1/2" thick. We are making use of this now in our home kitchen and will see if it too will work on the boat.

What follows may be more information then you want. I designed the gally in a "U" shape. The engine cover protrudes into the galley about 7" and is 1/2 of the top step of the companionway steps. (The other 1/2 of the top step is the top step on a ladder I built that hinges out of the way). The engine cover would be at your back when facing the sink. Directly to your right, on the starboard side of the vessel, is the two burner, gimbled, single oven stove. I built a subfloor in this "U" to raise the finished sole to 3 1/2". I did this for two reasons. 1. To provide a way to funnel any water entering through the lazerette hatch or the stuffing box directly to the bilge. 2. To provide a place to install raceways, i.e. 1 1/4" PVC pipe, for electrical wiring and hoses from the A/C compressor to the refrigerator/freezer. When I tore the old galley out there were hoses and wires laying in the bilge I wanted to make sure I eliminated this seemingly common problem I have seen in other boats.

I didn't understand your question about lighting and ventilation.

Looking forward to hearing back from you. Regards, Peter
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Old 21-08-2005, 05:00   #17
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Hi, Peter;

I thought long and hard about what surface to use on our galley top. We too like to cook, and don't believe that just because we're sailing we should have to eat strictly seal-a-meal and one-pot meals. Given I'm rebuilding her in Trinidad where teak is dirt cheap, my first choice for countertop was end-grain teak butcher's block. I thought this would be the very best combination of useful cutting surface and classy looks, but it was vetoed by my carpenter, who wisely pointed out that my first five years or so with her would be very part-time; such that she would be sitting at dock or in a yard most months of the year and despite my best attempts at ventilating her while buttoned-up, there would be no stopping a high moisture level in the air, which would inevitably crack and buckle the blocks.

We then talked man-made solid surface, namely Corian; but it's even more expensive in Trini than it is in the US, isn't completely maintenance-free, and the end result would possibly be too modern for Diva's traditional looks.

Ceramic tile seems like the next best option, with a home-kitchen class and stlye and infinite palette of color/design possibilities. I haven't worried too much about weight on Diva; at 46,000 displacement a few hundred pounds here or there doesn't mean much.

If bedded on something solid, hull flex shouldn't be a problem in cracking the grout. We haven't yet broached the subject of what exact bedding surface to have under the tile; I've used a cement board (called "Wonderboard", no doubt the same as your "Hardy board") sucessfully in my home tile work; not sure if there are factors intrinsic to a boat countertop that would make epoxy a better bed than cement and mortar; a good question indeed.

Your idea of a sink-insert cutting board is a good one; the all-purpose waste hole sounds useful too. One thing that occurs to me about your lovely marble cutting board, is the potential of it becoming a deadly missile in a knockdown someday; some wooden dogs attached to the counter, or screw knobs installed in the marble to keep it in place in the rough stuff might be a good idea.

Sounds like you've put lots of thought into the plumbing and wiring runs under the sole; another valid category of planning.

My question about lighting and ventilation stems from the fact that I have a rectangular skylight in the deck, roughly 20x 10, running fore and aft about a third of the way back from the forward bulkhead of the galley; previously the sink was located under that skylight, and I'm wondering if it's still the best choice (as opposed to stove or counter) to have in that privileged spot.

As head-scratching as it is, I am finding this galley redesign a lot of fun. I guess a hard day playing with boats is better than an easy day working....!

Geoff
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Old 24-08-2005, 07:37   #18
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The idea of using the hardy board under the tiles, is that the board and the tile expand and cntract at about the same pace and amount. Fixing directly to timber or wood panels, the tiles will eventually either crack or come loose, or the grout will crack and allow water in between the tile joint.
However, there is another way. You don't have to use the proper tile adhesive and grouts. You can adhere the tile directly to wood by using a urathane adhesive/sealant, like Sikaflex ior simpson or Holdfast products. These products stick very well to both surfaces and the materials will expand and contract independantly of each other. Allow the sealant to come up around the joint of the tiles and then wipe away any excess with Turps or thinners. Don't wipe to much, you want the gap to remain reasonably full so as dirt and scunge doesn't get traped down around the tiles and cleaning becomes a pain. You want to be able to easily wipe the bench clean.
Personaly, I like a solid white top. I would be looking at the water proof sheets of board that are glazed on one side. Often used as shower and bathroom wall linings.
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Old 24-08-2005, 09:15   #19
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Another strategy that, appeals to me, would be to limit expansion issues by maintaining a relatively stable temperature.
Since warm is better than cold, never sail North or South of about 24 degrees.
There won’t be much thermal variation, if you maintain the boat within the Tropics (Tropic of Cancer at 23.5̊ north, and the Tropic of Capricorn at 23.5̊ south)
Sorry - I just couldn’t help myself ...
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Old 24-08-2005, 21:28   #20
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Talking

Gord, I like the way you think. "Sorry, Honey, we can't leave the Tropics or the grout will crack..."
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Old 25-08-2005, 10:24   #21
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Of course, the stable temperature could also be cold, just as long as it is stable. so sailing to the pole could also be a good bet. Me thinks the grout would not be the issue when it comes to things cracking and falling off though.
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Old 25-08-2005, 11:51   #22
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GeoffS:
I thought it was a good argument, too; when I (unsuccessfully) tried it out on Maggie.
Unfortunately, she countered with (something like) Wheels hypothesis - so we compromised and split the difference (we’re now at 48.3 N).

I had to compromise thermal stability familial security .

"What counts in making a happy marriage is not so much how compatible you are, but how you deal with incompatibility." ~ Leo Nikolaevich Tolstoy
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Old 20-11-2008, 08:15   #23
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So how did the galleys turn out....Pics?
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Old 20-11-2008, 08:36   #24
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Hi, James;

I'm scandalized to see that my last post on the subject was Sept. 05...wow, time flies when you're waiting for boat work in Trinidad. Well, she's still not floating, probably "another year" (my new mantra). The galley's major construction is done, though we still haven't laid the tile or installed the sink, fixtures, electrical and propane, so (sigh) a ways to go yet. I realize that I don't have current photos of the galley upper cabinet work or ceiling-strake around the port; I'm headed down in about two weeks and I'll shoot some photos.

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Old 20-11-2008, 09:06   #25
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I'm no one to comment on your schedule, I started my refit in 2004, If I don’t take the family out for at least a trip out side the marina this summer I'll loose all credibility!!
My galley is not finished, but getting there...I went with something like corrian for the top with the sink built in...I left 3mm all around for expansion and contraction....this stuff moves a lot.
I'll be going to her tomorrow for about a week.
Looking forward to your pics...I still have lots of upper cabinet ideas/details to sort out...(not this trip) your input will be most appreciated.
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Old 28-11-2008, 11:44   #26
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Someone mentioned on this thread to look at caravan layouts for interior ideas...I just met a guy yesterday who used to work for Coachman....he said they would go to boat shows for ideas....how does that work??
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Old 28-11-2008, 12:08   #27
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A couple of thoughts: Many boat designers seem to forget to add the cushion height when they design settees. Nothing more uncorfortable than a settee that leaves your feet hanging. Also, if you're thinking of a top loading refrige box, consider a lower door to get at the bottom. Very useful. One design I looked at years ago had a top loading box, but the lid came out to the front of the cab and down the face maybe 6", much easier to get at things, although a tough cabinet to fabricate. Double sinks look good at boat shows but one large sink is much preferable to me. Sink faucet should be the high arcing type to allow room to turn pans etc under the faucet. SIngle lever faucet will save you water. (little time spent adjusting temperature)
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Old 28-11-2008, 12:29   #28
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I went with two bowls in my sink...two very deep bowls
I've also heard of refer drawers...again a bit of work to fab. but a handy place to keep the beer.
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Old 28-11-2008, 12:48   #29
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If money is not a big problem, they make pull out refrig drawers now. I think Isotherm? What I like about one big sink is you can put a frying pan in to soak etc. Nice counter sink !
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Old 29-11-2008, 05:06   #30
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Originally Posted by James S View Post
Someone mentioned on this thread to look at caravan layouts for interior ideas...I just met a guy yesterday who used to work for Coachman....he said they would go to boat shows for ideas....how does that work??
Mutual symbiosis?
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