+1 on adding successive layers of reinforcements & epoxy
, although I'd recommend something a touch stronger, & easier to laminate, like alternatingly angled patches of heavy tri-axial glass.
If you like, in order to create a more flat surface, inside, for the backing plate, post glassing. Get a block of G10, & grind it to fit the taper on the inside of say, the front 2"-3" of your hull
. Then glue it in place with some epoxy mixed with milled (fiberglass fibers) AKA "Bog". And then start your glass reinforcement on top of it.
Although it might be wise to drill undersized holes through the block & hull
, from the inside out, all of the way through both the block & hull, prior to starting your glass pad.
They'll serve as guide/pilot holes later on.
In terms of how to lay up your additional reinforcing. Just keep adding layers on in slightly bigger pieces, at alternating angles, so that each one has a good, independent area of contact with the hull.
The alternating the patch layup
angles at 30, 45, or 90 degrees to one another, help with this.
If you have to stop part way through the laminating, no worries, just put a layer of peel ply on when you stop for the day. That way, when you come back, & everything's cured hard, but you still have more glass to add, you just pull off the sheet of peel ply, with no worries about amine blush to remove, or needing to grind before starting to glass again.
Once you get your thickness where you want it, use some door skins & a hot glue gun to make a mock up of the backing plate. This method will let you get the angles (and hole placements in it for the bolt all laid out & drilled in advance). That way, you can take the mockup to your shop, or the hired out shop, & make the angles in the plate fit the boat on the first try.
Plus, & you can also drill a few small mounting holes in the backer while it's on the work bench, in addition, of course to the primary holes in the backer.
FYI, it pays to have the primary holes in the backing plate (backer) drilled a little oversize, as the holes which you drill in the stem are never perfectly straight. So this gives you a little wiggle room for fit. And the hefty washers on top of the backer, underneath of the nuts, cover up this small gap.
From there, were it me, I'd fully drill through the holes in the bow, & dry fit everything. Then mix up some bog. Tape off the area around where the metal backer will go, & apply a 4mm or so layer of bog, to thus create a perfect(ly) molded, & mated LZ for the backer.
Then bolt everything together lightly, to create said, perfect backer mounting pad, after making sure that there are a couple of layers of some type of stout mold
release on the bolts & nuts.
After that, walk away, & let things cure. Later, you can glass over the plate if you want things to be stupid strong.
-There's a section on epoxying metals in the WEST System guides.
And once that's all done, apply a bit of bedding compound (or not, if you use the bolt with the boot from Wichard).
Then it's time to crack open a couple of cold ones ;-)
PS: You can go with a non-booted bolt, & either use your own favorite sealant
to keep things watertight. That, or put a bit of modeling clay around it's holes on the outside of the boat as a temporary seal. And fill in the gaps around the bolt's legs, inside of the boat, with neat resin.
Although for this, you have to build small cofferdams (with modeling clay) around the bolts on the inside of the hull, so that you have a cavity under & around the bolt which will hold the resin while it cures.
Ah, and here are some of your bolt choices, from Wichard anyway. I favor/recommend the U-bolts with the factory rubber boots. Fastenings
Were she my boat, I'd adorn her thusly http://marine.wichard.com/fiche-A%7C...000000-ME.html
Often enough, for small quantity purchases, I get glassing supplies at reasonable prices here www.fiberglasssupply.com
in addition to the supplies bit, they're some very nice as well as helpful folks.