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Old 13-03-2011, 19:57   #16
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Re: Inaccesible Nuts !

Send a squirrel down there.
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Old 13-03-2011, 19:58   #17
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Re: Inaccesible Nuts !

pix(of boat, please) then i can try to fix it. i love steelies---lived on one with a guy who took 0ff with , yada yada...lol...can ye make the liner slatted instead of solid and make places for accessing the hull for inspection or to modularize it for frequent inspections and upgrades?
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Old 13-03-2011, 21:30   #18
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Re: Inaccesible Nuts !

Well, if the nuts are behind the liner my solution won't work. Guess you'll have to remove the liner.
kind regards,
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Old 13-03-2011, 23:39   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeehag
pix(of boat, please) then i can try to fix it. i love steelies---lived on one with a guy who took 0ff with , yada yada...lol...can ye make the liner slatted instead of solid and make places for accessing the hull for inspection or to modularize it for frequent inspections and upgrades?
I found that a cold chisel was the best way to"undo" bolts. There is no ventilation in to the engine room so I have decided to just reline everything and do it properly this time including ventilation. Photos are both sides of the one panel. Galley and engine room. Not sure what timber it is and would be difficult to match up with new panels. You can see the rust forming that would have been behind the panelling.

Another gripe was he(she?) laid the saloon flooring directly on top of the fuel tanks with a hole cut into the floorboards so the raised manhole would fit. Going to lift the floor an inch so there is airflow between floor and fuel tanks and to cover the manhole with access hatch. I have got heaps of good ideas from the forum but all help appreciated.

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Old 13-03-2011, 23:41   #20
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You got to love the speckled ducks egg paintwork! And the welding!
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Old 13-03-2011, 23:46   #21
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Re: Inaccesible Nuts !

looks teakish....and philipine mahogany? hhmmm......looks a lot like the stuff of interiors of formosas...should be able to find some over in your area??
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Old 14-03-2011, 00:22   #22
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Haven't worried about timber bits ATM. Just painting steel and fixing up engine room and fittings so they are accessible and fixable down the track. One of my finds was the only thing holding the fuel in one of the tanks was the glop on the inside and the paint on the outside. Guess what happens when you empty and clean tanks and remove paint? Gotta love pinholes at the welds.

It is a Bollard design motor sailer. Classified barge until I get the motor back together. We have a mr ply and wood over here that can supply most veneers.
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Old 14-03-2011, 01:51   #23
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Your local Megahardware store...

Your local megahardware store should have 12mm and 7mm pine ply that may be acceptable. They'll cut it to size for a very modest fee, leaving clean straight edges that are easier to work with. Do check the face for knots.

Soles really need something thicker. If I were starting again I'd go with 19mm or something equivalent, maybe even a hardwood ply if I could find it.

They'll have 90x45, 35x70 and 19x42 pine too, though you do need to pick the better pieces.

I found the better qualities are more expensive, limited in available thicknesses and quality, and quite often a fair sort of drive away. If you only need a small amount they should be fine.

As with all ply it's a good idea to actually check the thickness before telling them to cut away.

I've found so far that wood with a good coating of epoxy resin a la WEST system is compatible with steel in some situations. Best of all is to make sure it never gets wet...

As long as the metal remains dry interior paint has not been critical for me. An enamel over a sound painted surface seems to be OK, and in the more critical situations I've used Penetrol CIP with no major complaints so far. Results on the deck and hull have not left me as happy.

I'm currently working through the POR15 system to coat the odd rust spot on deck with a view to doing the hull if it works out ok, but it's way more work than just splashing a bit of paint on...
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Old 14-03-2011, 02:51   #24
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I have used por 15 inside and out. I was hesitant at first but now would not use anything else. If you follow the directions it is brilliant one little extra although when I apply the metal ready I use a heat gun before it dries.
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Old 14-03-2011, 09:15   #25
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Re: Inaccesible Nuts !

Get longer arms?
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Old 14-03-2011, 15:20   #26
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Have someone else reach them for you...it's better that way anyway.
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Old 15-03-2011, 00:52   #27
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All of you with the double entendres. Shame on you.

I love it.
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Old 15-03-2011, 09:24   #28
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Re: Inaccesible Nuts !

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All of you with the double entendres. Shame on you.

I love it.
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lol--ye started it..LOL....is funner this way....if ye use regular ply, might wanna cpe it first--penetrating epoxy?
may help it last longer.....?if you use for structural stuff, anyway, just thinkin.....
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Old 15-03-2011, 09:35   #29
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Re: Inaccesible Nuts !

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What DO you mean? I really do have inaccessible nuts!
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That all depends on the water temp.
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